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I have been searching for for a thread on this, have not found anything, what is considered a safe quench distance when using alum rods in a big block with a 4" stroke, spinning under 7000 RPM???
 

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I have been searching for for a thread on this, have not found anything, what is considered a safe quench distance when using alum rods in a big block with a 4" stroke, spinning under 7000 RPM???
It depends on the alu. rod material.
We use to run .060 including the gasket thickness with the cheaper Manley alu. rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know it was a mistake to get alum rods, but since I have them, and the Manley ones are what I have

thank-you
 

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I know it was a mistake to get alum rods, but since I have them, and the Manley ones are what I have

thank-you
When we ran them they where on new GM steel cranks.
We would run them for a year and toss them in the trash.
Keep in mind this was about 20 years ago.
 

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I know it was a mistake to get alum rods, but since I have them, and the Manley ones are what I have

thank-you
Not really a "mistake" per se. They'll work OK. Just plan for them.

Manley had 2 types of aluminum rods. Their newer "Super 70" rods are made of impinged-surface aluminum and are pretty decent rods IMHO. I've had good luck with them.

I'd have no issues at all running them in a street car for extended periods. We'd run the ancient Howards and M/T auminums in Pontiacs in street/strip applications years ago with no issues at all. They weren't nearly as sturdy or high quality as the Manley "Super 70" rods.

Manley's rods are manufactured .010" shorter than the specified length to help account for stretch. As long as your piston-to-wall clearance is not excessive, your piston/pin combo is fairly light, and your max rpm is below 7000, you'll be pretty safe with quench clearance in the .060"-.065" range.

One thing to remember with ANY aluminum rod in ANY application..... Don't beat on the engine till the engine is thoroughly warmed up.

Randy
 

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Fwiw, we can buy aluminum rods now that are darn near as tough as steel rods!

Somebody and I want to say they are in KY sell's them, but I forget who??

My bad. New space-age tech type aluminum material here..

If interested, then please do a search b/c I've posted about this before on the sites.

pdq67
You're probably thinking of the Jaeger rods. Some type of ceramic-aluminum matrix composition.

I don't have any experience with them, and don't know anyone who has.

Plain ol' Manley "Super 70" rods are just fine, but Manley quit making them now, I believe.

Hell, I still run the old-design Venolia rods in my 355". Never a problem. I replace then every couple years when I freshen the engine. My 355 has a pretty light piston and pin, but I spin it to 7600 on the shift and 74-7500 in the lights every pass.

Randy
 

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You're probably thinking of the Jaeger rods. Some type of ceramic-aluminum matrix composition.

I don't have any experience with them, and don't know anyone who has.

Plain ol' Manley "Super 70" rods are just fine, but Manley quit making them now, I believe.

Hell, I still run the old-design Venolia rods in my 355". Never a problem. I replace then every couple years when I freshen the engine. My 355 has a pretty light piston and pin, but I spin it to 7600 on the shift and 74-7500 in the lights every pass.

Randy
In a 625hp engine the Manley aluminum rods are good for 125-145 passes at 8,400-8,600rpm past the lights with no issues

Wow, M/T rods, that was years ago. Howards aluminum rods used to be famous for stretching years ago

Now if you upgrade to better aluminum rods such as GRP or Bill Miller your talking $900+ no matter which one you use

I would also get the oil temp up to about 165°-180° before you load that engine with a drive or W.O.T run
 
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