[The WidowMaker]

Im in the process of replacing the left quarter on my 70. Ive got two main problems with the new panel. The first problem is that i cannot seem to get the panel up high enough. The only way i can tell this is because there is a gap between the drip rail and the top of the panel. The pictures in my sig will show the problem and the ~1/2" gap. This panel does need to go up right?

The second problem is the door gap. The panel seems to sit too far forward, but when i move it back it doesnt line up with the trunk filler panel or the deck lid. I know that i could adjust the door to make it fit right, but i havent moved the door so i thought that it should fit the same. Should i just weld the panel and adjust the door?

The pics are in the link of my sig.

Thanks for your help,
Tim

 

[Jim Streib]

I'm not familiar with the Chevelles but when I replaced both quarters with NOS ones on my 1974 Nova there were little pieces in the area like on yours to where if they were not removed from the old quarters and reinstalled on the new ones there would have been gaps. Luckily I did not throw away the original ones before I noticed I needed these parts off of them.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/352164366/477388570BdpekA

http://community.webshots.com/photo/477388569/477388569BNwSCj

As far as the fit on the front edge of the quarter to the back edge of the door, how is the gap on the bottom edge of the door to the rocker sill. If it is even then I would look at modifying the quarter panel edge. How was the fit before with the old quarters ?. On my 74 even the NOS ones had to be tweaked a little to get nice gaps and a good fit back by the taillight panel. For some reason on mine the back corner of the quarter panel was a little too long so I ended up cutting the corner off of the quarters, removing a section out of it, welded it back on, added another strip of metal to fil a horizontal gap, did some hammer and dolly work, and when it was time to add some filler just a very little amount was needed. Probably if I had spent even more time with a hammer and dolly I could have worked the repair to where just primer would have filled any flaws.
On yours with the door gap problem you may be able to get in there and try and roll the tight edge back with a hammer and dolly and as a last resort put a slice in it to where some metal can be removed and the cut butt welded back together.

Another thing concerning a wide gap is you may have to add some weld in spots like I did on my car:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/512271998/516570325uPzeVU

The gap before was OK but spending a little time with the welder really improved this one area and was time well spent.

Jim

 

[bri2203]

The new quarter panels are not perfect. What is stopping you from going up?
I am in the process of doing both quarters on my1970 and i was useing reproduction outer wheel well houses. the reproduction outer wheels houses are not perfect either, in my case it was higher and more forward than the orginal.
If the outer wheel well housing is stopping you... you will have to remove it and clamp up a new one. and move the quarters around until it fits right.You might have to grind some of the rocker so it has adjustment. I hope this helps

Brian

 

[The WidowMaker]

I guess i was not totally convinced that the quarter needed to go up anymore. It really seemed to fit and look good except for the gap, and i wasnt sure if it was supposed to be filled by another piece. The bottom fit is pretty snug around most of the wheel well, but it will need some massaging.

Earlier i had posted another question about the rubber type material that goes between the top of the outer wheel well and the inner surface of the quarter (keeps vibrations down). Currently there is about a 3/8" gap here between the rubber and the new quarter. It makes me think that the quarter is buldging just slightly in the middle. So i would assume that the top still needs to go up. I guess i will keep trying.

As far as the door fit, the top gap is about 3/16-1/4" and the bottom is tight. Im not really worried since i know i could make the door fit the quarter, and the fender fit the door, but i dont want to weld on the new quarter and make a mistake permanent.

Also, I know that the quarter helps strengthen the car some, but with the inner structure, how much does the quarter actually do. What im asking is if i put a weld every 1' instead of every 2-3" would it be driveable. This way i could take it to a real expert for final approval. Its really not necessary since im confident it will be damn near perfect, but it would just ease my mind.

Thanks again for your help,
Tim

 

[The WidowMaker]

I just did some primitive measuring using a few different methods and the results answer why i have a problem. The new quarter is 1/2" short from the bottom corner where it contacts the rocker, straight up to where i have a gap. I guess i will just have to use a filler piece to make it right.

But, no matter what i do to the quarter, i cant get the door gap any better. Should i just weld it in place and adjust the door? Also, would it be driveable (no more than a few miles) if it was just tacked every foot or so?

Thanks again,
Tim

 

[Brucebodyman]

i have installed many full qtrs on 70-72 chevelles. if you have a bigger gap at top of door than on bottom you will probably have to trim the new qtr. in the area where qtr meets drip rail. im talking about where it curves around drip rail. every one i have ever put on hit in this spot not allowing the qtr.to tip correctly if you trim a little of the curve part it will allow you to tip qtr. giving you a good straight gap. is the qtr. your putting on a goodmark. and if it is is it the one stamped on gm die or the cheaper one they offer stamped on new tooling?. all 10 i have installed were stamped on gm tooling.take the time to make sure you have proper fit before welding on. also put on trunk lid and make sure you have correct gap there. if also installing wheel tub i dont weld into place until i test fit everything. clamp wheelwell in place fit qtr. then unclamp wheelwell and move it around a little to make sure you get a good fit then reclamp. it just takes a lot of tweeking. but i have NEVER had to cut away any of the new panel or weld pcs to it to make it fit.

 

[The WidowMaker]

The gap is between the bottom of the drip rail and the curved piece you are talking about. It seems that this quarter does not have enough where it curves. Here are the pics
http://hometown.aol.com/chevelle496ci/images/img_0224web.jpg
http://hometown.aol.com/chevelle496ci/images/img_0225web.jpg

Also, if I tip the quarter forward, the door gap gets better, but the drip rail gap gets worse.

Im not sure if this quarter was stamped on the GM or new tooling, but it is a OPG part made in Taiwan. I assume this is the new tooling because OPG dropped their price $200.

Any suggestion on the driveability?

Thanks again,
Tim

 

[ss396boy]

Sounds like that panel is not a Goodmark one. I think their panels fit much better and you won't have the issues like you are having. The cheaper Taiwain parts don't seem to line up as well. I don't think the door gap can get much better, might take some putty to finish it up

 

[Brucebodyman]

they must be the ones that are stamped on the new tooling. the goodmark ones are stamped in this country at least the ones stamped on gm tooling. aside from the little trim job on the corner by drip rail these qtrs fall right into place without any major problem. a couple of hundred saved on a cheaper panel is more than lost in time trying to make cheap on fit. i guess you could tack it on & drive it to a shop. its just a skin it doesn't add much structural support.

 

[LateNight72]

Looks like you may have taken too much off of the original gutter area. My Goodmark (on GM tooling..) cuts out at just about the same spot.. :clonk:



-Todd

 

[The WidowMaker]

My understanding was that all were made in Taiwan by Dynacorn and shipped here and distributed under different names. The OPG catalog states "superb quality quarters that are stamped from the original GM tooling. And these quarter-panels are licensed by GM, so you know they're outstanding reproductions". I did hear that the original tooling was in need of costly repair, but I had never heard of new tooling. I was under the assumption that the Goodmark and OPG quarters were exactally the same.

By the way, I welded the new quarter on today with better than expected results. Once i got over the fact that there was a gap with the drip rail, the rest went on great. The door gap also turned out a lot better than when I was trail fitting. I just used some extra muscle. Also, although I know i took some of the actual drip rail off, it should only be even with the piece next to it. That still leaves the curved piece of the quarter about 1/2" short. Everything else lines up, so i will just have to fill this gap.

Thanks again,
Tim

 

[LateNight72]

Well, if they include the full sail panel, then they're not DII (Dynacorn). The DII panels cut off at about where the panel turns up on the window (the problem area for you).

If you don't mind, what did you pay for the 1/4? The GM tooling ones should be around $500-600. I heard that companies pay about $400. So no way could they sell for less.

Anyhow, I would go to figure that if everything else fits and works great. Then just go ahead, fab up a piece, and have at it. I don't see a problem..

-Todd

 

[The WidowMaker]

Todd-

I paid $399 (they used to be $599) for the full quarter with sail panel. I just checked Goodmarks website and they now offer two quarters for the 70-72. Old tooling $599, new tooling $479, so im guessing i did get the new tooling.

Anybody know how the tooling is made? Do they cast the old or do they use an existing quarter. I dont see how the new could be any worse than the old.

As far as my install is concerned, the only other problem that i have is that the deck lid doesnt fit right. Its curves dont match either of my quarters. Ill just have to add that to my list.

Thanks for your help,
Tim

 

[D70]

This is a great post at awesome timing! I myself am getting ready to replace my rears on my 70'chevelle as well! Tonight, I just finished cleaning the body and bringing it down to baremetal / removing rust etc...

430 HP 70, you've made some interesting discoveryies, which have answered some of my questions.

I only use Goodmark panels so I'm in a toss over which panels I should purchase.
Old tooling ($599) or
New tooling ($479)?
and what the differences ar etc...

If anyone has any insight or recommendations, Id appreciate it!

 

[Brucebodyman]

use the original tooling. i have installed many of these and had NO problems. take your time trim where needed fit and re-fit as many times as needed. if done correctly the Goodmark panel from original tooling fits PERFECT. i got a pair of them once that had a shipping tag from some plant in ohio. i believe the goodmark panel stamped on original tooling is stamped in this country.