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Discussion Starter #1
I moved the batt of my 72 to the trunk. I am concerned about the routing of the start lead. I've got a pair of solenoids in back and will be using 2 gauge welding wire lead. I have a 10 gauge lead for the ignition, and one for the alternator feed. The 2 ga will only be hot during start, but I am still concerned about the routing.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Robert
 

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Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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Main thing is, keep it off the exhaust. Other than that, obviously you don't want it to get rubbed through the insulation.

Here's something that's often neglected, if you have any electronic stuff at all on the engine you'll need to run a 10 or 12 gauge ground wire from the engine to the battery. don't rely on the frame and ground straps to be a sufficient ground for transistor switching. These things operate in the single digit milliamp and millivolt range and need a really clean ground path.

Tom
 

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I really want to put my batt in the trunk of my 65. Where exactly in the truck is the best place to put it? I know on the right side but where on the right side? In the corner? Over the tire on that little shelf?

I was thinking over the tire would be the best place. That way it is not intrusive.

Thanks in advance

Dave
 
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Over the rear axle as near the right tire as possible. There are several kits for mounting in the trunk, one of the best is the kit by Direct Connection, you know the Mopar guys. The kit uses a nice tray, heavy duty brackets and a wool cover. Yep, wool is acid resistant.

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Wally
Gold #67
67 malibu
 

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Wally's right, right side, over the axle (right where the spare tire is!!!!). Also, I used heater hose to slip the battery cable through for protection against rubbing where needed and where I placed clamps to hold it in place.

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Tom Parsons
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was thinking about routing the leads through the interior inside a carrier like heater hose. I am not at all concerned with the aesthetics of a lump in the carpet. I am very much concerned about my velle burning up and taking the garage and house with it.

I will be running 2 ga weld wire start lead through two solenoids and it will be unfused and only hot on start. I am running a 10 ga lead to a fuse block for the hot power and tapping off it for ign only power through another fuse block, and also a 10 ga lead to the alternator through a switch. Those two hot leads will be fused at the batt with monster 100 amp fuses. The fuse blocks are rated to 150 total amps and all switches and relays are rated to 30 amps. My gear reduct starter takes only 10 amps to pull in and pulls about 140-150 to start the car.
The big question is: Is it safe to run the power lines through the inside of the car with this much failsafing included, or should I try to run everything outside of the cabin area?

Thanks again!

Robert
1BADS72
 

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Robert;

It's easy and valid to say that NOTHING is "fail proof" or perfectly safe! (as I recall, one of the guys that walked on the moon died when he slipped in his bath tub)

Although I can see nothing technically unsafe on running the wire through the cabin, there is OBVIOUSLY something on your mind. Thus, ease your mind and run it outside, on the frame rail that doesn't have the fuel lines.

There are a couple things that seem strange to me in your explaination of what you are planing on doing. For me, it's ALWAYS been best to keep it simple and follow paths that have already been done. Here is what I'd recommend;

Use a vented battery box and make sure that the vent exits the car. Make sure that the battery has a solid hold-down.

Get an SCCA battery shut off switch that can be turned off from outside the car. The reason and thinking on this is so that the fire people can turn off the battery if there is an electrical fire. Mount the plunger OFF button under the bumper where everybody isn't messing with it, but you can still get to it should a problem come up. (personally, I'd have the switch so that it can be only turned off AFTER opening the trunk)

Run the hot line from the battery to the switch, and then under the car to a Ford solenoid mounted in the engine compartment. From the same terminal on the solenoid, run a large gauge wire to the alternator with a fusable link nearest the solenoid. (this is assuming an internal regulator alternator)


Here are a couple other things to think about (that others may contest);

Unless it's a "latching" relay, you should never use a relay in a constant "on" state.

EVERY connection is a possible point of heat and problems! Keep them to a minimum!

EVERY item added in the electrical string uses some amount of electricity and will generate heat. When working correct it should be a very small amount, but it still exists.

If you feel the need for the 100A fuses, carry extras. Or you could try locating a resetable circuit breaker (try boat supply places). Also keep in mind that there are fuses that pop fast or slow. In other words, a 100A fuse that is designed to pop slow would allow "spikes" over the rated 100 amps.

Always use grommets! Always use Adel clamps on the main wire that have rubber jackets (aircraft supply shop) to prevent any movement of the wire.


Sorry about being so long winded!!!!!

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Wes. Vann
Technical Reference & Wagons sections
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Ran my wires along the frame, then next to bellhousing and under/inside starter to terminal. Kind of close there. 2/0 wire is plenty big. I ran a ground to engine block with pos. wire too. I put batt. on floor of trunk to get it low as possible. Watch for gas tank when drilling/punching holes back there. I drilled holes in batt. caps, epoxied vacuum fitting ell & tee and ran a vent hose through floor to outside, seal up caps with silicone sealer. You can feel the difference the weight shift makes. tom
 
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