'69 car w/ big block. Installed (atleast one side so far), my QA1 C/O's. Didn't gt the torrington bearing - jury is still out on that, but I did apply never sieze between the steel thrust ring and the adjuster, this really seems to help. Adjusting is firm, but not so severe I can't do it. The question though is - how far up the shock would you set the adjuster nut as an initial setting for about 1" lower than stock - just wnt to get a feel for it as a starting point, before I let it down off the stands. I have the adjuster about 1-1/8" up from the first thread so far. Placing the jack under the hub and jacking it until the control arm takes the weight of the car, I have about 2" of travel before it hits the rubber bumpstop. Keep in mind, the front fenders, hood and bumper are off of the car as is the fron glass, so it will sit lower when all parts are installed. Is this close or should I be up the shock about 1/2 to start?
QA1 C/O - inital setting for height??
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IIRC, mine is set with about 4 threads of the shock body exposed below the adjusting ring.
Two differences though...I did install the bearing and I'm using 2nd gen Camaro spindles (1" lower).
Two differences though...I did install the bearing and I'm using 2nd gen Camaro spindles (1" lower).
Only got the driver's side finished. Debating on letting it sit and ordering the torrington bearings - although tight, the never sieze seems to help. As far as height then, I may be ok with 2" of travel to the bump stop - I assume. Any idea on how much travel you have?
PS - I am running whatever spring was in the rear when I got the car. I am probably going to change the rear springs. Thinking I should get the lower control arms close to parallel. If you look at the car as sits in my sig, it sits kind of high in the rear.
PS - I am running whatever spring was in the rear when I got the car. I am probably going to change the rear springs. Thinking I should get the lower control arms close to parallel. If you look at the car as sits in my sig, it sits kind of high in the rear.
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Only put the antisieze under the thrust ring. Thought about lubing the threads, but I thought it might cause the threads to accumulate dirt - probably nothing to worry about. I'll try that on the passenger side today.
PS- After getting one side in and giving this a little thought, I think I am going to pull both lowers and fab up a reinforcement plate. Looks like I can just fab up a set of half moon shaped lite wall plates to fit in between the lower shock mount and the control arm - thinking 1/8" flat stock will do the job - effectively doubling the load surface.
PS- After getting one side in and giving this a little thought, I think I am going to pull both lowers and fab up a reinforcement plate. Looks like I can just fab up a set of half moon shaped lite wall plates to fit in between the lower shock mount and the control arm - thinking 1/8" flat stock will do the job - effectively doubling the load surface.
I am also running the QA-1 Coil over shock/spring combination. My QA-1's are from Global West. Their springs on the standard QA-1 coil over setup are progressive and somewhere (if memory serves me correct) in the neighborhood of 360 - 450lbs/in.... Global West also has another set of coil-overs for the QA-1 Shock that run around 650lbs straight. If you look at the last picture in my signature, you can see the progressive standard spring set at 1" up from the lowest thread on the shock. The car is an all cast iron Big Block except for the intake and headers. With my front tire/wheel/spindle combination (tires are 245/40-17, spindle is a B type spindle) this comes out to 25 1/4" from the ground to the wheel opening molding lip edge. 1 1/8 should get you the height you're looking for. If you need to adjust it, be sure to raise the front end off the ground to make adjustment easier.....oh yeah wear gloves if you do have to adjust, ask me why.....
Sam
Sam
I got the units installed. Ended up dropping both lowers and put in new ball joints while I had everything apart (ball boints were low miles, but they had been apart several times for spring changes that I figured it was worth extra 20 minutes and 36.00, also sanded out the nicks and repainted them. I had blasted/painted and installed polygraph bushings, but from disassembly they were already not pristine.
Finally figured out that you attached the coil overs loosely by the top shock mount first, then raise the lower up to it and bolt everything together. I did lube the threads with Never Sieze (lite coat), then wrapped the wrench with 3 layers of black tape and used gloves - was not bad at all to do. I am at 1.25" from bottum of lock ring to 1st thread now. As soon as I let the car down I could tell that this would work well. I let the jack down fast to settle the suspension. With the shocks set at the #4 postion, the front end actually had some travel - when I had the Hotchkiss springs and the KYB's, it was rock hard and would shutter when you hit bumps, I think this will actually handle much better just due to having the suspension a little loose. I am looking forward to running the car and having the adjustability for some front end travel. I am guessing a setting of #2 or 3 will have plenty of rise in the front end. yet still maintain control. Have 3.5" from the top of the frame to the top of the control arm on both sides now - car is sitting level - side to side. Thanks for the help guys.
PS - I did fab up a reinforcement bracket to install between the lower shock mount and the control arm. Used a heavy guage 3/8" fender washer,placed it in a vice with approx 1/3 sticking out and shaped it to an L with a BFH. This effectively increased the metal cross section by 50%. I also ended up using new Grade 8 bolts and Grade 8 washers/lock nuts. The units come with a Grade 5 which are probably plenty, but the Grade 8 just gives a little more peace of mind.
Finally figured out that you attached the coil overs loosely by the top shock mount first, then raise the lower up to it and bolt everything together. I did lube the threads with Never Sieze (lite coat), then wrapped the wrench with 3 layers of black tape and used gloves - was not bad at all to do. I am at 1.25" from bottum of lock ring to 1st thread now. As soon as I let the car down I could tell that this would work well. I let the jack down fast to settle the suspension. With the shocks set at the #4 postion, the front end actually had some travel - when I had the Hotchkiss springs and the KYB's, it was rock hard and would shutter when you hit bumps, I think this will actually handle much better just due to having the suspension a little loose. I am looking forward to running the car and having the adjustability for some front end travel. I am guessing a setting of #2 or 3 will have plenty of rise in the front end. yet still maintain control. Have 3.5" from the top of the frame to the top of the control arm on both sides now - car is sitting level - side to side. Thanks for the help guys.
PS - I did fab up a reinforcement bracket to install between the lower shock mount and the control arm. Used a heavy guage 3/8" fender washer,placed it in a vice with approx 1/3 sticking out and shaped it to an L with a BFH. This effectively increased the metal cross section by 50%. I also ended up using new Grade 8 bolts and Grade 8 washers/lock nuts. The units come with a Grade 5 which are probably plenty, but the Grade 8 just gives a little more peace of mind.
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