I got the units installed. Ended up dropping both lowers and put in new ball joints while I had everything apart (ball boints were low miles, but they had been apart several times for spring changes that I figured it was worth extra 20 minutes and 36.00, also sanded out the nicks and repainted them. I had blasted/painted and installed polygraph bushings, but from disassembly they were already not pristine.
Finally figured out that you attached the coil overs loosely by the top shock mount first, then raise the lower up to it and bolt everything together. I did lube the threads with Never Sieze (lite coat), then wrapped the wrench with 3 layers of black tape and used gloves - was not bad at all to do. I am at 1.25" from bottum of lock ring to 1st thread now. As soon as I let the car down I could tell that this would work well. I let the jack down fast to settle the suspension. With the shocks set at the #4 postion, the front end actually had some travel - when I had the Hotchkiss springs and the KYB's, it was rock hard and would shutter when you hit bumps, I think this will actually handle much better just due to having the suspension a little loose. I am looking forward to running the car and having the adjustability for some front end travel. I am guessing a setting of #2 or 3 will have plenty of rise in the front end. yet still maintain control. Have 3.5" from the top of the frame to the top of the control arm on both sides now - car is sitting level - side to side. Thanks for the help guys.
PS - I did fab up a reinforcement bracket to install between the lower shock mount and the control arm. Used a heavy guage 3/8" fender washer,placed it in a vice with approx 1/3 sticking out and shaped it to an L with a BFH. This effectively increased the metal cross section by 50%. I also ended up using new Grade 8 bolts and Grade 8 washers/lock nuts. The units come with a Grade 5 which are probably plenty, but the Grade 8 just gives a little more peace of mind.