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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well this is my first complete engine build and with the help from you guys I'm going to give it a shot.Machine work done,crank and rods clear everything,crank is in .006 endplay.Rings are on,I'm on hold at the moment I got carried away with the ring grinder and screwed the first two up,the second one not as bad,but will order two new rings.Total Seal AP rings top.022-.024 bottom .024-.026.I'm running JE 2618 flatops and putting on a procharger.Tom Mobley has been a huge help I would also like to thank,Mike,Chris,and UDHarold.I know I'm going to need a bunch more help so i will post as I go.Next hurdle will be fitting the Jesel shaft rockers on AFR 305 heads.Any tips?

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0354.jpg
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http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0356.jpg
 

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Looking good so far. I bet you are dying to see that blower mocked up on the motor. Best tip I can give you is to take your time and be methodical. Dont rush through anything and everything should turn out fine. Remember that the only dumb question there is, is the one you dont ask.Great luck to you and keep us posted on your progress! :thumbsup:
 

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nice. recently put a 10.7:1 496 / 600hp motor in my 67ss. it is like night and day compared to the old 396 that came out. revs like a small block even with the longer 6.385 rods and 4.25 stroke crank....have fun....wished I could offer tips but looks like you are headed in the right direction....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Little update,going slow.I got the pistons in today,cam degreed UDHarold CCC right on the money dot to dot.The timing chain cover was a pain in the @ss the inside of the timing cover had a boss that hit the chain,my ARP bolts were not long enough to go through the thicker aluminum cover.I over ground the cam button so I have to get a new one(.035 end play).Oh well I have a measurement to go by now.

With zero decked block flat top pistons with intake relief and 668 - lash total lift cam .041 MLS gasket how close do you think my valve to piston clearance will be AFR 305 heads milled to 114cc?Just wondering it will be awhile at my rate before I get to that point.Close, should be plenty of room?
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0386.jpg
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0387.jpg
 

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With zero decked block flat top pistons with intake relief and 668 - lash total lift cam .041 MLS gasket how close do you think my valve to piston clearance will be AFR 305 heads milled to 114cc?Just wondering it will be awhile at my rate before I get to that point.Close, should be plenty of room?
You will have to measure to know exactly what you have and to be safe. But for reassurance, I had plenty of P-V clearance with .709 net lift with my AFR 305's with 114cc CNC chamber. This is with a Voodoo 60234 usind 1.8's on the intake. I have the SRP 18cc dome pistons, with the pistons out of the hole .0115. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You will have to measure to know exactly what you have and to be safe. But for reassurance, I had plenty of P-V clearance with .709 net lift with my AFR 305's with 114cc CNC chamber. This is with a Voodoo 60234 usind 1.8's on the intake. I have the SRP 18cc dome pistons, with the pistons out of the hole .0115. :thumbsup:
Thanks I will check,but that helps.BTW sweet 69 you have.
 

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Ray, that looks like a nice project!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Made a few mistakes and some progress today.I'm going to do the wait over night then retorque method,good or bad?I also made some adjustable push rods from some old harley push rods.Harley's use adjustable push rods there just a little long pull out lower ball cut to length attatch bottom ball and a cheep set of adjustable push rods for checking.# 1 on comp 0 lash adjusted push rods,then loosened rocker and put .080 under rocker tighten rocker and turned engine slow till piston came up and watched piston to valve ,no hit.So am I good is that good enough check?
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0465.jpg
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Wow, you have your own ring specialist. COOL!!!!
 

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Made a few mistakes and some progress today.I'm going to do the wait over night then retorque method,good or bad?I also made some adjustable push rods from some old harley push rods.Harley's use adjustable push rods there just a little long pull out lower ball cut to length attatch bottom ball and a cheep set of adjustable push rods for checking.# 1 on comp 0 lash adjusted push rods,then loosened rocker and put .080 under rocker tighten rocker and turned engine slow till piston came up and watched piston to valve ,no hit.So am I good is that good enough check?
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0465.jpg
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0464.jpg
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0469.jpg
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu327/ryfrat/101_0468.jpg
Ray
Referring to pic 464
Before you go any further you need to either drill the two lower holes in the block that are in the head gasket you have or you need to change gaskets to the one that leaves both casting holes open in the back of the block
 

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Like John said about your son, enjoy it while you can. I sure miss mine. He is 21, out on his own, living 160 miles away. He was my shadow. I sure wish I could do it over again.

I would also think that propping up the bbc by it's snout to make it level on the stand can not be good for the crank.

To add to Wolfie's comment, what gasket is that you are using? The reason I ask is that AFR calls for a 4.54 bore gasket, either 1017-1, or 1017-2. If not, the gasket will protrude into the chamber of the head, and get fried. You also don't have to worry about whether you have series or parallel cooling.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Like John said about your son, enjoy it while you can. I sure miss mine. He is 21, out on his own, living 160 miles away. He was my shadow. I sure wish I could do it over again.

I would also think that propping up the bbc by it's snout to make it level on the stand can not be good for the crank.

To add to Wolfie's comment, what gasket is that you are using? The reason I ask is that AFR calls for a 4.54 bore gasket, either 1017-1, or 1017-2. If not, the gasket will protrude into the chamber of the head, and get fried. You also don't have to worry about whether you have series or parallel cooling.

Fel-pro 1071 4.380 bore,Head gaskets and bearings I got from the machine shop that did the block work.Oh that stinks.Thanks for the tip I will remove the the prop.
 

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Ray
Referring to pic 464
Before you go any further you need to either drill the two lower holes in the block that are in the head gasket you have or you need to change gaskets to the one that leaves both casting holes open in the back of the block
I think.. (not 100% sure). but with the MLS gaskets I don't think you need to drill the block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think.. (not 100% sure). but with the MLS gaskets I don't think you need to drill the block.
Hi Matt these are Fel-Pro MLS 3 layer gaskets part #1071 .041 4.380 bore 80.00 each they cost me.Man you guys got me all confused,I don't know what to do now.I was getting ready to retorque the heads this morning,on hold I guess till I due a little more research.Tom,Wolfplace where are you!!!
 

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Hi Matt these are Fel-Pro MLS 3 layer gaskets part #1071 .041 4.380 bore 80.00 each they cost me.Man you guys got me all confused,I don't know what to do now.I was getting ready to retorque the heads this morning,on hold I guess till I due a little more research.Tom,Wolfplace where are you!!!
Send a pm to wolfplace:yes:He always gets back to me right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How about the piston to valve clearance?I set ajustable push rods to 0 lash TDC comp stroke added(solid Roller) .060 under rocker and spun slowly and watched valves to piston on exhaust cycle before and after TDC and everything cleared.Is this a good enough check?
 
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