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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, does anyone where you can buy a rebuild kit for the pressure metering valve that is under the m/c on 69 chevelles for the front dics brakes, thanks, Bill

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BILL TIRELLI TEAM CHEVELLE MEMBER#280 1969 BLK CHEVELLE SS396 375HP 4SP 410 POSI
STATEN ISLAND NY
 

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I don't know about a rebuild kit, but I did recently send one of these out for a rebuild.
I sent it to:

Power Brake Exchange, Inc.
260 Phelan Ave.
San Jose, CA
95112

Total cost including return COD was $47.60

I have not put it on the car yet, though.

PS: One thing I learned about this thing by reading the service manual is that you need to depress the plunger on the back when bleeding the brakes.

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Dan Carr
[email protected]
Team Chevelle Gold Member #11, ACES #701
Author of the GMC Sprint, El Camino, and '68-'72 SS Authentication pages.
See my GM A-body fleet at:
www.rmi.net/~dcarr/cars/cars.HTM



[This message has been edited by dcarr (edited 09-17-99).]
 

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Dang. Good info, too late. I sent mine to Ground up for them to have it rebuilt. Cost, about 85.00.
Phil
 

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Bill- I'm looking for a rebuild kit for a 69 also. I tried a few places in Hemmings but no luck yet. I have a few more to try.
 

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Do you need to depress that plunger when bleeding them normally or only when you pressure bleed them

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Mike A Gold Member 266
69SS 396
Everett Mass
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yes,BULKSS the plunger on the back is supposed to be depressed when ever you bleed the brakes. I could not get mine to go in and I didn`t want to force it. I got breakes bleed any way, they work fine but now I have a slight leak, don`t want to take apart without a rebuild kit available.I would buy a new valve if I could fine one. Thanks Guys.

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BILL TIRELLI TEAM CHEVELLE MEMBER#280 1969 BLK CHEVELLE SS396 375HP 4SP 410 POSI
STATEN ISLAND NY
 

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I rebuilt mine for only a few bucks. I think I did it right, I hope. What I did was remove the big nut on the front where the line from the MC goes in, be carefull because there is a spring behind it, then I just replaced the rubber seal inside it and sandblasted the outside of the valve where the plunger sticks out so it moves freely.
 

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You have to be careful with these things.
Our '69 Buick SportWagon came with one.
One day while driving to work the brakes started to go. Soon they were almost completely gone (very hazardous !). I assumed that it was the master cylinder due to the symptoms.
So we put a new one on. Tried and tried to bleed the system, but could not seem to get the air out of the lines. I drove it again anyway and the brakes immediately started to fade.

After much "debate" we finally discovered that this metering valve was letting air into the system (even though it was not visibly leaking any fluid). So, we just bought a junction block and removed the valve from the circuit. the brakes then bled fine and everything has been ok since.

I just got the valve back from the rebuilder and I will get it installed soon.

Does anyone know the real purpose for this valve ? There is already a separate proportioning valve in the system. Maybe this valve is supposed to delay the hydraulic signal to the front ?


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Dan Carr
[email protected]
Team Chevelle Gold Member #11, ACES #701
Author of the GMC Sprint, El Camino, and '68-'72 SS Authentication pages.
See my GM A-body fleet at:
www.rmi.net/~dcarr/cars/cars.HTM
 

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The Metering valve indeed delays hydraulic pressure to the front brakes with front discs/rear drums. This allows the rear brakes to overcome the spring pressure as it contacts the drums. Otherwise the fronts would lock up first. This is not used for 4 wheel drums or 4 wheel discs

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Frank W
Melrose MA
Gen X Member#22 (MA)
73 Malibu Coupe
hometown.aol.com/folingo/folingo.html
Mighty 305 Power
 
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