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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car did not have power windows but 30 plus years ago I came across a set and grabbed them. Glad I did.
The friend who took them out for me did a good job. But he took them out so because I wasn't part of that removal process I am not sure how they will go back in.
I know the switches will go into the holes in the door panels where the winder used to be. I am getting new panels so I can practice on the old one's.
I am just not sure what holds the actual switch in the panel?
I see that the switch comes apart and also see that he didn't take it apart when he removed them.
So are the tabs that appear to be straight in the pics to be bent over on the back side of the door panel after inserting in the squared hole for the switch?

Thank you all!


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you both...! okay that makes sense guessing you don't want to do that too often or they'll break off!
The chrome is pretty good Steve... I can't complain for the 100 bucks I paid... okay 38 years ago but still.. I knew I had to have em and thankfully they work too! gotta clean up the harnesses and restore the rubber grommets and boots

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Steve... Yes i figure why not while it's opened up and waiting for the spaghetti to go it...aka wiring...
I looked in three manuals for a diagram of what you guys told me was the right thing to do even U tube and nothing...
But while I was looking I saw that some cars had power ventilators...aka vent windows...THAT would be cool. I know adding a few pounds each time...but that's like any good burger right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So To be clear with the advice given and with thanks.....

- Swampy thank you for the tips. The wiring I have is from a 68 so it should be clean and plug and play. but I like the ground wire to door frame body.
Yes moisture barriers a must many don't put them back on...Good way to ruin a door panel.
  • Cricket That is a good idea...make an escutcheon ring that the light can fit into behind the door panel!
  • Brian thanks had me worried... Yes I drilled both doors and body before it went to the shop...
  • Bill the door panel may have a square cut out to relocate the square or rectangle switch. Got it.
  • Chris you cleared up what I was thinking. two pieces that snap together once the ring has been installed. Making removal of the switches and having to bend the tabs each time a non issue!
Thanks all!
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Swampy... My motors have all new brushes from 68 NOS and have been rebuilt over the the last few years. they run well and are bone stock. All tracks have been rebuilt and redubbed.
No worries there just wanted to know the routes the wires take in a 68. I did get the pics to show this...
i took all the gears out washed cleaned and re greased all the drives as well as replaced the brushes when doing so. tested and then stored the motors in the house with silica pouches to collect moisture. All good on the motor front and wiring is like new...all wrapped tested and has all the clips and screw clips to mount it with all the rubber boots and grommets as well.
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes they are the same as I bought them from a friend 38 years ago and he took them out of a wrecked 1968 Chevelle... all 4 same car with wiring harnesses right up to Fuse box. The brushes I replaced with Motor brushes from motors similar to these...I had to sand down one side of the new brush to allow it slide in the cradle and attach the wire to the contact point. So all good.
 
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