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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car did not have power windows but 30 plus years ago I came across a set and grabbed them. Glad I did.
The friend who took them out for me did a good job. But he took them out so because I wasn't part of that removal process I am not sure how they will go back in.
I know the switches will go into the holes in the door panels where the winder used to be. I am getting new panels so I can practice on the old one's.
I am just not sure what holds the actual switch in the panel?
I see that the switch comes apart and also see that he didn't take it apart when he removed them.
So are the tabs that appear to be straight in the pics to be bent over on the back side of the door panel after inserting in the squared hole for the switch?

Thank you all!


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you both...! okay that makes sense guessing you don't want to do that too often or they'll break off!
The chrome is pretty good Steve... I can't complain for the 100 bucks I paid... okay 38 years ago but still.. I knew I had to have em and thankfully they work too! gotta clean up the harnesses and restore the rubber grommets and boots

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Steve... Yes i figure why not while it's opened up and waiting for the spaghetti to go it...aka wiring...
I looked in three manuals for a diagram of what you guys told me was the right thing to do even U tube and nothing...
But while I was looking I saw that some cars had power ventilators...aka vent windows...THAT would be cool. I know adding a few pounds each time...but that's like any good burger right?
 

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Wiring depends on which type of window motor u have .
Most early GM had 2x positive feeds to the w/motor 1x was down 1x was up
The ground was thru the motor case then door then earth

Silicon water proof electric grease every where all elec connections
earth wire from motor to body point
Install door liner behind door trim to keep water moisture out . Stick clear plastic sheet down with butyl rubber strips .
Most often power comes from the permanently live side of fuse box to the main relay //from the relay it goes to the drivers door switch . Power can only happen if the relay is energised by the ignition being turned on .

****yup doing all 4 of my GM windows

Motor clean and new brushes is most likely needed
Lubrication of worm gear with PTFE white grease
inspect ALL ALL weather seals and ... rollers
Lube window rollers with Zinc grease
lube runners with silicon spray
 

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Food for thought, since the switch clips into that anchor and mine were toast. I made aluminum plates for the back of my panels and pushed the switches into the aluminum backing plates. This turned out well as now my switches are tight to the panels.
 

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Casey, I hope you drilled the door holes for the wire boot installation? If not, the doors need to come off.
This may help? I used it for installation in my 72.

 

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Casey I am pretty sure the window switches do not use the same location on a Chevelle. You probably could on old panels but when you get your new ones I think you will see what I am saying I seem to remember there was a new cutout for the crank and one for the electric switches on my new door panels. I will see if I can find some pics. I did just check my wife's 71 Camaro door panels that I haven't installed yet and it clearly has two locations one round and one kind of rectangular that I assume for the switches. I am installing Nu-Relic power windows in her car which is basically a factory replacement system.
 

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Casey, the ring that has the tabs comes off the switch. Just carefully pry it up. You may have to push the spring tabs down. They snap on and off. Find the location, cut to fit, insert the ring into the panel, then bend the tabs over. Insert the switch and then plug it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So To be clear with the advice given and with thanks.....

- Swampy thank you for the tips. The wiring I have is from a 68 so it should be clean and plug and play. but I like the ground wire to door frame body.
Yes moisture barriers a must many don't put them back on...Good way to ruin a door panel.
  • Cricket That is a good idea...make an escutcheon ring that the light can fit into behind the door panel!
  • Brian thanks had me worried... Yes I drilled both doors and body before it went to the shop...
  • Bill the door panel may have a square cut out to relocate the square or rectangle switch. Got it.
  • Chris you cleared up what I was thinking. two pieces that snap together once the ring has been installed. Making removal of the switches and having to bend the tabs each time a non issue!
Thanks all!
 
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hi
Doing my window motors now
.....slow windows can be caused by many things .
1/ window channel adjustment s
2/ window channel roller and motor grease dried out and sticky
3/ hard window rubber seals
4/ dirty commutator inside motor
-----B4 14amps usage and slow
-----After cleaning 6amps and alot faster
5/worn motor brushes
6/ incorrect grease in motor worm drive ,, worm drives are very very hard on grease
7/ window mechanism rollers worn out

NB donot use aftermarket motors the brushes are very short and the casings are not water proof rubber coated . Depends on OEM vehicle the motors . the good ones are ....rubber dipped .....
If your motors are painted
bead blast case
epoxy prime
use a brush rust prevention wax once assembled .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Swampy... My motors have all new brushes from 68 NOS and have been rebuilt over the the last few years. they run well and are bone stock. All tracks have been rebuilt and redubbed.
No worries there just wanted to know the routes the wires take in a 68. I did get the pics to show this...
i took all the gears out washed cleaned and re greased all the drives as well as replaced the brushes when doing so. tested and then stored the motors in the house with silica pouches to collect moisture. All good on the motor front and wiring is like new...all wrapped tested and has all the clips and screw clips to mount it with all the rubber boots and grommets as well.
Thanks again!
 

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hi
Are your motors rubber dipped and assuming they look similar to this
Gas Metal Auto part Composite material Circle

This seems to be a OEM Delco Pontiac type flat style driven gear with housing being rubber dipped .

The aftermarket Corvette style has a different lower quality /non water proof seal , different looking driven gear with a painted body

Can u still buy new these OEM motors/ driven gear eg NOS ??

The rubber dip and better sealing driven gear seem to only occur in some NOT all variations of this motor .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes they are the same as I bought them from a friend 38 years ago and he took them out of a wrecked 1968 Chevelle... all 4 same car with wiring harnesses right up to Fuse box. The brushes I replaced with Motor brushes from motors similar to these...I had to sand down one side of the new brush to allow it slide in the cradle and attach the wire to the contact point. So all good.
 

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Hi
Yes the brushes are a little hard to get the correct types and size
Brush spec is
1/4 x 1/4 x 1/2 long [ 6.3 x6.3mm x 12.7mm ]
side connect shunt wire braid
BRush Grade
copper/ metal graphite [high amperage for size ] [handles approx 8amps constant at low volts ]
NB warning lesser carbon brush Black electrographite will burn out , very common brush .

BRAND hellwig STYLE 13-H or similar
OR
Back- And Side-Shunted Brushes (carbonbrush.com)

I just purchased 2x vehicle sets [16] [4dr] from this company , should arrive this week .
Australian Gm used these 1970--1985 So i have Chevelle radiator and elec motors and some suspension from Chevelle of all different years . !!!! wow
 
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