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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought an Electric Life power window kit and have a question about where to tap for power. The instructions say to hook the fused power supply wire to an ignition power source capable of handling 15 amps. Can anybody point me in the right direction under there? They also say that on most GMs this would be a 12 gauge pink wire.

From reading posts, I think that factory power windows had a separate power wire to a terminal block on the firewall for power accessories. Do I have to go that route?

Thanks in advance.
 

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That's where they are suggesting you tie it into. The pink they mentioned is a switched ignition line. If you run it out to something like the horn relay, the windows will operate with the key off. They normally wouldn't do that.
 

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Whoa, don't hook the main power source to the fuse box! It can't safely handle that large of an inductive load.

The only thing you run to the fuse box in the car is a wire to the ACC/Radio fuse terminal slot. This wire will connect to the #86 terminal on an automotive 12 volt relay. The relay will carry the load. Connect the #85 terminal to a good ground. Now use a 10 ga. wire and connect to the # 30 terminal. Run a wire thru the firewall and connect it through a 30 amp breaker. Run the other side of the breaker to the horn relay (to get a constant source of 12 volts) using some more 10 ga. wire.

Now, the #87 terminal on the relay will connect to feed wire that goes to the power windows.



This is how GM did it 30+ years ago, and the correct way! The power windows will ONLY work if the car is running or the key is in the ACC (accessory) position. The energized acc terminal (which is a 10 amp fused source for the radio circuit) will provide 12 volts to activate the relay. Said relay will then provide a current path (capable of high current) to the window motors.

Be sure to use a grommet when running any wires thru the firewall. I would recommend (2) things to improve on the original GM wiring: Make sure the relay is mounted on the inside of the car in an easy-to-get-to place under the dash for future service/testing work. Mount the circuit breaker fairly close the horn relay, so that wiring is protected the furthest distance. In the original set-up, the circuit breaker was mounted on the firewall. This protected the car's window feed on the inside, but the only protection for the 10 ga. wire that connected to the horn relay was the main fusible link at the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Finally getting around to doing this.......

What gauge wire should I run from terminal 86 to the fuse box ACC terminal? Ground wire gauge?

Thanks guys!
 

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Just a thought, I've always 'changed' the source on my cars with power windows to one that doesn't require me to fumble for the keys to raise the glass. REAL convenient if you're somewhere where it rains. (or have dust storms
)
 

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danny
The wire to the #86 terminal is not carrying much of a load. A 16 or even 18 gauge wire will work for you.

I did the same as Dave, I installed an override switch that energizes the relay without needing the ignition turned on. We don't get too much rain, but the dust sure do come up quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. One last question. In Coppertop's diagram above, is 87A the same as 87? I've got two hots to the power window switches...one for left and one for the right window. Got the driver's window hot to 87. Can I hook the passenger window hot to 87A? Or, should I just piggyback connect the two hots together to 87?

The install has gone good so far. Driver's is in and works great. :cool: Now for the passengers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK...it's done. I just piggybacked the two hots together. Would have gone much quicker but I replaced the glass run channel weatherstrip and the door panels while I had it apart. Those Electric Life power windows work great.
 

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If you plan on running more accessories, an auxiliary fuse block (Cirkit Boss) like those from Painless Wiring are great. I have the 7-circuit weather resistant model (#70207) and have it mounted under the hood. Three constant hot and four ignition hot circuits (each one fused individually) using one 30-amp relay.
 
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