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I am sandblasting my frame and plan to use por15. Do I need to prep the metal in any way before putting on the por? If so what? I have heard it done both ways, whats best? Also what is the best paint to put over top of the black por to keep from fading? Thanks.


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Rod
Team Chevelle
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1970 454
 

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I'd just go over it really good with a tack cloth and then paint it with a brush, wait several hours, then put on a second coat. I assume that you have a body that will go on your frame, and that you will not drive around in a bucket seat mounted in the middle of just the frame, so why would you need to worry about fading?

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Mike
formerly known as gotapileof70Malibu (so add 80 to my number of posts)
'70 Malibu
'70 Malibu convertible
 

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Mike's right, there's no reason to paint over it. Just brush it over your sandblasted frame. If you have any brushing skills at all you probably won't need to apply a second coat.
 
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BillK and I were talking about this POR15 deal and he made a valid point.

How many of these types of cars will rust out the frame? My 67 and my son's 71 are in fine shape, so what is the deal with this anti rust, highly over priced and non UV resistant treatment?

Sandblast, shoot some zinc chromate primer on then some resto frame paint, have a nice day.

Or if you like a little more gloss and don't give a rat's ass about resto rods like me, shoot high gloss on.

These cars a built like tanks, if you don't think so run it over the scales! They have real steel in the frame and unless it was parked in one of the two major bodies of water that flank the US, or driven on PA. roads, it should be good to go.

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Wally
Gold #67
67 malibu

[This message has been edited by Wally (edited 07-07-99).]
 

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Gee, does Pa really have that bad a reputation? After living here for so long , I thought it was normal to play "Dodge the Potholes"
.......................Joe454

[This message has been edited by Joe454 (edited 07-07-99).]
 

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Two things I would like to bring up. POR15 does not like a smooth surface, it wants a little rusty, irregular surface to stick to. Second POR15 dries to an almost ceramic like surface. I use it on frames for this reason. I can drive it and not worry about chipping the paint.

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Steve Strasemeier (70SS 396, Fathom Blue/White Stripes)
 

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I meant to say this earlier: if you're using the semigloss black and you want a truly semigloss finish, you'll want it to fade some. The semigloss ain't semi- anything, it's just gloss.

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Mike
formerly known as gotapileof70Malibu (so add 80 to my number of posts)
'70 Malibu
'70 Malibu convertible
 

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I noticed mine fade as I rolled it out of the garage every weekend for several months to work on getting the suspension on, get the 12 bolt in place, brakes, etc. Sometimes it was just to clean out the garage. Anyway it did fade a little unevenly, enough to make me want to paint over it.

If I recall the POR literature, they seemed to recommend topcoating it with something. Maybe they just wanted me to buy more of their stuff.

John Walker
 

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The Por15 that is designed to paint over rust is not designed to paint on bare clean metal. It will chip off. Get the corect Por15 for bare metal. I know I had this problem. Check with the MFG., not the retail store.

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ACES #2637
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Just a note in regards to POR 15. If you ever plan to remove this stuff in the future you might want to consider some type of durable enamel. Once POR 15 dries, it is hard as a rock and does not want to come off,
even sand blasting will struggle with it.

Thought I'd pass that one along.
 

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another comment on wally's expense point is if you don't use every drop it's a waste, i can't keep the stuff from hardening in the can, no matter what i do with saran wrap. $34 a pint and i lost almost half. concur with the surface prep, it sticks better to roughness. did anyone mention degreasing? it won't bond well to an oily surface.
 

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gkopeck,
Try buying the 6 pack instead of the pint.That way you only open one small jar at a time.Even that is hard to use up at one time.What I do is open one small jar and then put it in baby food glass jar with a plastic baggy over it.Then store it in the refrigerator and it will last longer.I think I have had one jar in there for a couple of months and it is still good.Just before you use it let it heat up a little cause when its cold it gets very thick.But after it warms up it thins out again.

just some thaoughts

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66SS
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First of all, these frames do break. While sandblasting mine I found two cracks in the frame near the rear mount for the front lower control arm. I would never have found them without sandblasting.
Second; I wonder the directions that come with POR15 are very clear. They plainly state that if the metal is sandblasted it needs no further treatment as the sand gives the metal more than enough tooth to hold the POR15. I used their Metal Ready metal prep anyway and after hosing it off with water the frame had a smooth even coat of flash rust on it. The POR15 gave a nice finish and I am very pleased with it.
Third, POR15 DOES NOT DRY ROCK HARD!!. Paint the inside of a plastic bowl and after it dries you can peel it off the plastic and see how flexible it is. With a little effort you can even tear it with your fingers. This flexibility is one reason it won't chip. It will bend and flex with any bending of the metal it is on.
Last, I bought a gallon of semigloss a year ago and have a quarter of it left. It is still good after sitting in my garage with 100+ degrees last summer. I use fresh plastic wrap each time I close the can. The secret to using the plastic wrap is to drape it loosly over the can. I shoul dip about one inch into the can. If it is stretched tight it will tear in the middle when you seal the lid and you will loose a tight seal. The inside of my 67 is coated with rust. The entire trunk, lower rear quarter panels and filler panels all have to be cut out and replaced. You can bet I will use POR15 in all those places to insure they never rust again.
 

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Hey Rich, the hole in the lid sounds like a good idea. I put a small amount of POR engine paint into a cup and then seal the container quickly. The hole in the lid would let in less air, and help the shelf life of the paint.
Maybe you should add that one to the Tips & Fixes section
 

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I use POR15 all of the time and love it. I'd like to offer a few points. The price of the paint isn't that much when you consider how much we have in resto parts.

1. Be careful about ventilation. I sprayed this stuff in an open garage and was in the hospital with pneumonia within 12 hours. Use a good mask.

2. Don't use it on the outer body. It will not feather when you attempt to straighten the body.

3. I painted a frame and sat it outside for 3 years. No rust - not even a hint of rust. It did fade though.

4. I tried to paint a SB chevy engine - they recommend the POR15 rust paint covered by the engine paint. The black went on fine. I had a very difficult time getting the orange to stick. I'm concerned that the combination may be too thich and cause overheating.

5. Clean your spray gun very well - if not, it makes a great paperweight.

6. I've used POR15 and fiberglass cloth to cover small holes and pinholes (never on a Chevelle). It's easier and cheaper than sheet metal on a low buck job. I grind/blast the surface around the holes. Then I paint the surface with POR15. While wet, I lay the cloth in the paint and stretch tight. As it cures, I paint the entire surface with POR15. This sets up hard and will not rust. It's great for holey trunk floors.
 
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