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I have never used this,is it a good as they say for stopping rust?I have a large piece of equipment and the stamped steel oil pain is showing some serious rust.Do you just wire brush the surface rust off then brush the paint on?This has to be done without removing the pan,which is a major job.The pan is dry,not oily,just rusty.Also where do you get this at,auto parts store,hardware store?Thanks.
 

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Here is one spot but if you use google and search you will find a lot of sellers. I usually pick it up at swapmeets and shows from vendor booths.

http://www.por15.com/

There are instructions on that website and on every bottle for the application process.

If you want TC reviews do a search on the stuff - tons out there. Some love it, some dont buy it, some prefer eastwoods rust encapsulator and some say just go with epoxy and a top coat, etc like any other spot on the car.

I have a sway bar and two B body spindles that were done YEARS ago. Spindles are in the garage but I actually threw the sway bar in the dirt and left it outside for the last few months just for kicks - no rust. And when I threw it, literally, it hit two pavers / stepping stones in the back yard - no chips.

I havent run any painted parts on the car yet but I am not afraid of using this stuff with confidence. Again - OPINIONS vary.
 

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Cleaning is key before applying it. I have used POR15 on several projects and it works great. It has been a few years since I used it, and if I recall it has no UV resistance. So a top coat is required if you want it to look any better than charcoal.
The metal has to be prepared, and I think they will sell "metal ready" at the dealer you get the paint.
 

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They say you don't need to wire brush it since it will convert it chemically. You should check out thier starter kits, They cost under $20, and you get cleaner, prep, paint, plus gloves and a brush. And yes, cleaning is #1. DON'T get it on your skin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Appearence is not a factor,just want to stop the rust.
 

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I have had very good luck with it. I did follow the instructions and used the metal ready first, untill it ran out. For small parts and brackets, I have used the cheap old pool acid for prep and those also have held up well.
 

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It is not UV resistant. Hazes over after exposure to sun light. I've used Eastwoods Rust Inhibtor with GRET results. Also RUST BULLET (do a Google search). Both gave me excellent results and can be top coated with anything. I used RUST BULLET on the rear housing. 2 coats and it's totally protected. PPOR is great stuff but you should top coat it if the area is exposed to light. It's great on frames etc. It can be top coated with a spray bomb if you do it while it's still tacky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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POR 15 is a great product as I have used it many times as per the instructions provide by them, and I have come to the conclusion that I probably will die of old age before the POR 15 has rust through.


My rule of thumb when considering POR 15:

If your in your 20's follow instructions to the "T"

30's don't worry about the metal prep

40's forget knocking off the rust flakes

50's just use Krylon from Wal-Mart and save your money :beers:
 

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I used it on several suspension parts and a the frame of my 66SS and its held up great since 1998. I also used the top coat. I personally like the glossy surface. Looks quite nice actually.
 

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POR 15 is a great product as I have used it many times as per the instructions provide by them, and I have come to the conclusion that I probably will die of old age before the POR 15 has rust through.


My rule of thumb when considering POR 15:

If your in your 20's follow instructions to the "T"

30's don't worry about the metal prep

40's forget knocking off the rust flakes

50's just use Krylon from Wal-Mart and save your money :beers:
Les! Do we dare to ask which catagory you fall into?:D
I personally like RustoLeum paints.:thumbsup:
 
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