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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the story:

New dash guages installed, converted from idiot lights. New gauges circuit board installed. Used Jim Endrud's excellent wiring help from his site, I'll look for it and reference it here later.
Turned the key, but only to "on", and lights come on (Oil light, etc.) but so do wipers.
Started car, and wipers stayed on. Switch position for wipers doesn't seem to matter.

Nothing on dash works - no tach, no fuel, nothing. Forgot to check amps, and engine wasn't on long enough for temp to indicate. Started to smell funky, but I think that was from engine bay (new heads put on also) - anyway, I shut her down.
Checked all the fuses, all ok.
Pulled the wiper fuse to stop them from running all the time. Smell seems to have been from inside engine bay.

Went to restart car, and I've got no power anywhere, not even on dome light. Hmmm..
Put wiper fuse back in.
Still no power anywhere, no ignition circuit, no dome light, nothing.

but mostly


The car probably has been rewired along the way, which won't help matters.
I am NOT good at this stuff. ANY help would be greatly appreciated, I don't even know where to start. Thanks in advance!

Mark

Of course, today is probably the last great day outside we'll have for a while...
 

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Just so that we know what we are working on. Is this correct? 70 SS, converted SS light dash to gauge dash, rewired the cluster connector to accommodate the gauges. Did you add wiring for the amp gauge? If so what exactly did you do for it. Did you change anything on the bulkhead connector?

To start with you will need either a volt meter or a test light. At the fuse block check for voltage at the terminal marked BAT. If no voltage there check for voltage at the horn relay. You may have burned a fusible link.

For now leave the wiper fuse out, that problem can be tackled after the starting and gauges are corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Elree, thanks for the reply.
You're idiot light to gauge assessment is correct. I wired directly from the old amp gauge to the factory, made no wiring changes there. The old (and now new) amp gauge is wired from the battery positive on one side to the relay (either one on the firewall or the radiator support, not sure which). I have 14Ga wire for that, but made no changes from how the old was wired, EXCEPT that both wires go directly to the gauge behind the dash. I disconnected the harness wires to the amp gauge (pin 3 and pin 4) and taped the brown wire, formerly pin 3, out of the way.

I also changed the following wires per Jim Endrud's sheet:
Pin 1 (Left turn signal) and 2 (Dash lights) kept the same.
Pin 3 is hard-wired at gauge from Positive Battery. Wire on harness removed.
Pin 4 is hard-wired at gauge from Relay? Wire on harness removed. (see above)
Pin 5 (Power) moved to Pin 7.
Pin 6 was empty, now Oil Pressure from Pin 10.
Pin 7 (Fuel) moved to Pin 11
Pin 8 (Brake light) kept the same.
Pin 9 (Temp) moved to Pin 10.
Pin 10 (Oil) moved to Pin 6.
Pin 11 (High beam) moved to Pin 5.
Pin 12 (Right turn) kept the same.
Tach wire added to new Pin 9.

I have a voltage meter, don't have any voltage at the BAT connection on the fuse panel.

What's the next step?

Edit - I'll be offline for a few hours now, I'll try to reconnect later tonight or tomorrow. Thanks again for any help.

[This message has been edited by Xtreme70SS396 (edited 04-14-2002).]
 

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So if I understand it correctly you had an aftermarket (am) amp gauge installed and you moved the wires from it to the factory amp gauge. If so then that’s the problem. The factory amp gauge doesn’t measure amperage the same way as an am amp gauge. What you need to do is remove all of the wiring associated with the am amp gauge. Then rewire the main power back to the factory configuration. From the positive battery connection you need to have a #10 wire with 6” of #14 fusible link, this wire connects to the junction block. From the j-block you will have a #10 wire that connects to the horn relay (the factory wiring has the #10 alternator output wire and the #10 with #20 fusible link voltage regulator terminal #3 wire spliced to this wire). If you don’t have the factory wiring for this you can connect the alternator output #10 wire to the horn relay and if you still use the external voltage regulator connect the #3 terminal, with a fusible link to the horn relay.

This should get everything working again. The modified cluster connector is wired correct.

Now for the bad news, you may have damaged the factory amp gauge. If you did now is a good time to have it converted to a volt gauge. This will save having to add the necessary wiring for it.
 

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I agree with the suggestion to change the amp gauage to a voltmeter. It doesn't cost much and really cuts down on the headaches with any guage swap ar update. (I put in a Painless 18 circuit harness.)

------------------
Redrum (or Mike)

68 Corvette - 383 CI, 427 HP, 700R4, 12.56 @ 108 MPH
69 SS Chevelle - 502 CI, 610 HP, 2004R, 1320 unknown
97 Z-28 - totally stock still under 12,000 miles

How does an attorney sleep?

First he lies on one side, then he lies on the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, dang, the one I thought was easiest...


OK, so the wiring needs to be redone for the amp gauge (I want to keep it LOOKING factory correct, so a volt gauge will only work for me if it looks stock. Any suggestions?) I need a little more info about your wiring suggestion:

1. Please confirm: the junction block that the positive wire from the battery connects to is the one on the radiator support behind the drivers side headlights?

2. I think this j-block is where my fusible link went. I've got an orange wire going from the junction block to (horn relay?) that acts like there's no wire left inside the insulation. If so, am I correct in assuming I can replace this fusible link and be up and running? (After removing the wiring for the amp meter) I don't need the amp meter/volt meter right now - I can install that later. I think the rest of my wiring from the battery and j-block is as you suggested. Answering my own question, I could put my voltmeter there and make sure...

Thanks again for this help - I would be going nuts trying to do this on my own!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update:

I've got Power again!!!

Elree, thanks - it was the gauge wiring. I was thinking about what you said, and the fact that I suddenly have no power. The other meter was wired in-line with the main power feed to that junction block. All I did was disconnect the factory meter wiring and test the current running between the wires. Voila! Power problem is solved by splicing the 2 leads.

Bad news is the way I had the factory gauge wired means I was running full power through it to ground. Probably toast as you suggest.

I will repost my washer problem as a separate topic.
 
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