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Discussion Starter #1
I'm considering buying a air-fuel meter and was looking at my exhaust system today.
It sure would be alot easier to weld the "bung" at the point right after the collector. (I could take the exhaust off and weld the "bung" while the pipe is in the vise... VS if I put it in the collector, I'll have to weld it in the overhead position on my back!!

There's only a few inches difference (Maybe 6 inches)

Suggestions anybody?
Phil
 

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I took mine to a muffler shop, had them weld in NPT fittings on both headers, about 3" up from the reducer. Cost me $15. Granted you loose doing it yourself, but its easier than setting yourself on fire trying to weld over your head on your back with the welder 2" away from your face.

If you don't wanna take it in, just do it the safest way possible while getting it as close to the header as possible. I doubt it would hurt much, if any at all to have the sensor a little further downstream.

My opinion anyway.
Wes
 

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Follow the manufactures advice. They will include the best location in the instructions. If you get it to far downstream it won't get hot enough. The late model cars that have them that far from the engine use a heated sensor.
Philip
 

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I got a clean, scrap piece of exhaust pipe, made a saddle and welded the bung in this. /Cut a hole in the collector with a Dremel and put the saddle on this with a couple large hose clamps. Makes it portable, and easy to weld too. Putting it in the cone reducer would probably work good also. Those reducers are pretty expensive if you would ever want to change it out though.
 

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Phil;

As stated before, follow the manufactures recommendations.

I'd recommend that you get an extra bung so that you can mount a bung on both sides of the engine. (plug the unused one)

If you think that one side may be running richer than the other, you can swap sides.

The option would be to get two senders and just wire up a selector switch. I believe that the sending units are rather costly.

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Wes. Vann
Technical Reference & Wagons sections
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Wes: what sending units? A quality O2 sensor is only about 10 bucks or so from a parts store..

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Mike Reeh
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10 bucks? Wow. Last O2 sensor I bought that is compatible w/ my A/F mixture tester was $75.

I dug up my instructions and mine recommend you do not put the sender more than 4" from where the primary tubes meet, or from where the exhaust manifold connect to the exhaust pipe.

Phil- if you haven't bought your gauge yet, there are some companies that sell some that use two senders (one for each side) just another alternative to Wes's idea of running a selector switch between the two. Which is a good idea for guys like me who have a unit that only reads one at a time.

Wes


[This message has been edited by Wes Briscoe (edited 09-29-99).]
 
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