I've never removed a 4 speed before, so any advice on doing so? Thanks
1) Get the car up on a hoist or up on jack stands as high as you can get it.
2) Drain the transmission oil.
3) Remove the driveshaft
4) Unbolt the shifter and linkage and remove.
5) Unhook the speedo cable.
6) Remove the transmission mount bolts, raise the back of the tranny and remove the transmission crossmember.
7) Let the tranny back down.
8) Remove the four bolts that hold the tranny to the bell housing, and pull the tranny out. If it hangs up on the clutch, have somebody push on the pedal a little bit while you pull on the tranny.
9) Don't drop the tranny on the ground or on YOU. Get help if you need it.
10) If you are going to inspect the pilot bearing and clutch, go on to step 11.
11) Disconnect the clutch linkage so it no longer pushes on the fork.
12) Remove the the bell housing to engine block bolts and remove bell housing.
13) Remove the pressure plate bolts and remove pressure plate and clutch.
14) Inspect the flywheel and pilot bearing. I would STRONGLY recommend replace the pilot bearing and having the flywheel resurfaced. Make sure to have it mic'd to be sure it hasn't been resurfaced too many times, and inspect the starter ring gear for any bad teeth.
15) Install pilot bearing then install flywheel and torque to specs.
16) Lay the clutch disc on the pressure plate, making sure the disc is facing the CORRECT way.
17) Carefully put the disc and pressure plate up on the flywheel and reinstall the pressure plate bolts, but leave them loose.
18) Use you clutch alignment tool (if you don't have one, GET one, many new clutches come with one) insert alignment tool into the pilot bearing and center the tool (and the clutch disc) in the pressure plate opening.
19) Once you are satisfied the clutch is aligned properly, tighten the pressure plate bolts. The alignment tool should EASILY slide in and out without binding or dragging. If not, repeat step 18 until it does.
20) Reinstall the bellhousing with the fork and the throwout bearing in place.
21) Here is where I like to 4 get 3" bolts the same diameter and thread as the 4 transmission mounting bolts, cut off the heads and cut a slot in the cut off end. I then screw those into the bellhousing to use as guides.
22) Place the tranny up on the guides, make sure the input shaft slides through the throwout bearing and slide the tranny into place. Sometimes it helps to shift the tranny into a gear and rotate it slightly to get the pnput shaft splines to line up with the clutch disc. You can also bar the engine over a little. Make sure the trany slides ALL THE WAY in smoothly. Don't force it. If it doesn't go, figure out WHY, and fix the problem. Once the tranny is all the way in, unscrew the guides with a straight blade screwdriver one at a time and insert the bolts. After that, just do everything in reverse order of taking it apart. When you go to hook up the shifter, make sure the tranny is in neutral by spinning the driveshaft by hand and hook up you shifter linkage. I don't know the procedure for the stock shifters, but on a Hurst, you insert the shifter centering tool (or a drill bit the same diameter) through the shifter body, and hook up your linkage, making sure nothing binds.
11
