Check with a voltmeter set to 20 volts. Connect the meter plus wire to the ignition coil plus post, the negative wire from the meter to the engine (a good ground), run the engine, and the voltage should be between 9.5 and 11.0 volts or so, with the engine at operating temperatures. If the coil voltage is at battery levels, 13.00 to 14.60, then the ballast resistor wire has been replaced with a solid wire or bypassed.
If the Ignitor unit hasn't blown up, then I will go out on a limb and say the resistor wire is still in place and working. Ignitors don't like to have full battery voltage put into them, just the ballast resisted voltage for run. I have seen a few Ignitors blow up and into pieces when the owners fed them a full battery voltage. Pertronix says you can boost the output by using the full battery voltage, but you wll replave a broken Ignitor if you do this, it won't live very long. Run the resistor wire, and if needed, the extra ballast for the supercoil, too. The ignitor doesn't need the extra resistor from the coil, just the stock resistor wire.