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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know if I can use the Accel super coil with the Pertronix Ignitor ignition set-up? And if so, will I need a ballist resistor with it? The stock point distributor I have now does not use a resistor. I have the Pertronix ready to put in but was just wondering about the Accel coil or stick with the stock coil. Thanks for any comments, George
 

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I've been using just that set up on my 68 for over a year now. No, you will not need a ballast resistor and the Accell coil will work fine.

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Bob (Creedmoor,N.C.)
65 Vette B&M Blown, Richmond 5-speed
68 Malibu B&M Blown, Turbo 350 10" converter
 

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GEORGE,
If you don't have a ballast resistor, do you have the original resistor wire connected to your coil? PerTronix recommends that you not change ANYTHING from stock. If your car came with a ballist resistor or resistor wire, keep it. Are you using the ACCEL coil that replaces the stock coil? If so, then you are good to go.

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Tom Parsons
 

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The Pertronix Ignitor really doesn't like un-ballasted power sources, so be sure to run the stock ballast resistor wire. I have removed many Ignitors that were connected to full battery voltage and died, some in pieces from explosion. These ignitions need the ballast to work properly.

The Accel super coil comes with a porcelain ballast resistor, and in some applications, needs this resistor and the stock one for proper use. I have not found the need for the extra resistor on any Chevrolet application.

Since the supercoil has primary windings that are compatible with point distributors, the Pertronix unit will work with it just fine as long as the stock resistor wire is is used with it.

[This message has been edited by IgnitionMan (edited 11-24-99).]
 

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I did need the extra ballast when I had an Accel Super Coil and points. When I had only one resistor, points lasted only a couple thousand miles. With the extra resistors, points lasted 10,000+ miles. However with Pertronix I have no idea.

You can ignore this post if you like.


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Pat Kelley
66 El Camino, daily driver
67 El Camino, STRIP/street
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the comments. Now for a dumb question, but I'm not sure; how can I tell if I have a resistor wire vs. a regular wire. Is there a way to check with an ohm meter or what? And by the way, hope everyone has a HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!

George

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70 Chevelle SS/was 396 4 spd.
now temporarily 307/350TH
www.chevelles.com/showroom/70ssgk1.jpg
 

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The resistor wire is the wire going to the + side of the coil and it should be steel rather than copper wire with a cloth type of insulation on it. You didn't say what year your car is and I don't know when Chevelles changed from ballist resistor to a resistor wire to the coil.
Who can tell us?

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Tom Parsons
 

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Check with a voltmeter set to 20 volts. Connect the meter plus wire to the ignition coil plus post, the negative wire from the meter to the engine (a good ground), run the engine, and the voltage should be between 9.5 and 11.0 volts or so, with the engine at operating temperatures. If the coil voltage is at battery levels, 13.00 to 14.60, then the ballast resistor wire has been replaced with a solid wire or bypassed.

If the Ignitor unit hasn't blown up, then I will go out on a limb and say the resistor wire is still in place and working. Ignitors don't like to have full battery voltage put into them, just the ballast resisted voltage for run. I have seen a few Ignitors blow up and into pieces when the owners fed them a full battery voltage. Pertronix says you can boost the output by using the full battery voltage, but you wll replave a broken Ignitor if you do this, it won't live very long. Run the resistor wire, and if needed, the extra ballast for the supercoil, too. The ignitor doesn't need the extra resistor from the coil, just the stock resistor wire.
 

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This is a true statement.

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Tom Parsons
 
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