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Performance Blocks

  • GM 2 bolt main block

    Votes: 8 8.2%
  • GM 4 bolt main block

    Votes: 27 27.6%
  • GM 2 bolt main w/Milodon main caps

    Votes: 22 22.4%
  • GM 4 bolt main w/Milodon main caps

    Votes: 41 41.8%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought this would be an interesting poll, Tell us which block you think is strongest and why.

We all know a Dart block or other aftermarket block would be stronger

Please vote for which GM block you feel is stronger and vote for the GM block you think is stronger with the splayed caps
 

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I voted for the 4 bolt block with milidon caps I say this cause I was always told the 4 bolts are better blocks and once you install aftermarket studs and caps they are great to build big HP numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I feel the 4 bolt GM block is strong in street performance applications but if your racing with a GM block i feel you should have a 2 bolt block with Milodon splayed caps
 

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I like to run the early 2- bolt block and then use the "cheaper" 4- bolt splayed caps.
The reason being the Milodon caps are over-kill and the material is very hard to machine.
With the Milodon caps they will still be there when the rest of the block has "rod windows" in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I like to run the early 2- bolt block and then use the "cheaper" 4- bolt splayed caps.
The reason being the Milodon caps are over-kill and the material is very hard to machine.
With the Milodon caps they will still be there when the rest of the block has "rod windows" in it.
Cheaper 4 bolt splayed caps such as..........? Eagle? I myself like the Milodon, i dont know about machining them, The machine shop does that, not me:D

Usually with Milodon caps you need to fill the water jackets because the splayed bolts hit water, put grease on the end of the bolt and fill the waterjacket {I have always had this done by a machine shop, i have never filled a block myself}
 

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Cheaper 4 bolt splayed caps such as..........? Eagle? I myself like the Milodon, i dont know about machining them, The machine shop does that, not me:D

Usually with Milodon caps you need to fill the water jackets because the splayed bolts hit water, put grease on the end of the bolt and fill the waterjacket {I have always had this done by a machine shop, i have never filled a block myself}
I have been using the PRW main caps.
If it needs more than the PRW caps I am looking at the Dart or World Products blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have been using the PRW main caps.
If it needs more than the PRW caps I am looking at the Dart or World Products blocks.
The Milodon caps are like bullet proof, They run like $250 now days for the center 3 with bolts
 

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We use only billet splayed from http://pro-gram.com/ and we only flat bottom caps and either a 2 bolt block or 4 bolt block and the caps have a 10 degree outter bolt holes and there 7.500 wide.

The Milodon caps are only nodular iron and the outter bolts holes are at a 18 degree angle or more in some cases will get you into the water jackets as we had a call about that yesterday.

And the Program caps jobber at 189.00 for the 3 centers.
 

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Carl,
Can you give me a part number for the Program main caps to convert a 2 bolt 396 block? Can I buy them from you?
 

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We use only billet splayed from http://pro-gram.com/ and we only flat bottom caps and either a 2 bolt block or 4 bolt block and the caps have a 10 degree outter bolt holes and there 7.500 wide.

The Milodon caps are only nodular iron and the outter bolts holes are at a 18 degree angle or more in some cases will get you into the water jackets as we had a call about that yesterday.

And the Program caps jobber at 189.00 for the 3 centers.
=
Same here, nice stuff & I only use the flat cap too :thumbsup:
It is the only caps we use & I have yet to go into water with them.

I have seen some really strange problems with the cheap crap caps sold on ebay among other places that I can't really explain but I have twice seen engines lose main bearings with them in circle track for no apparent reason
It was as if the caps distorted & lost clearance as every other bearing in the engine looked fine except the rods this main fed.

I did not install the caps but the other mains in the engine showed reasonable sizing & installation so I have to assume they were all put on correctly by whoever did it which leads me to believe there was some sort of issue with the cap itself

Don't know, don't really care,, I use the Program caps
 

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Dart has some new blocks coming out shortly that we be about 500 dollars cheaper the Sportsman blocks as it will be alot better then dumping a lot of money into a 40 year old block like the 400 we have seen over the years to have them runa short time and find a crack in them after hard season of running.

Jegs offers a block http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1029740/10002/-1/10719 with shipping for 1720.00

We should be able to offer the same block that will be line hone as needed deck to any demension, bored and plate honed, lifter bores sized if needed, cleaned and shipped in the U.S. for 1895.00

Over a Dart Little-M Sportsman block is a savings of 500 dollars.
 

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Dart has some new blocks coming out shortly that we be about 500 dollars cheaper the Sportsman blocks as it will be alot better then dumping a lot of money into a 40 year old block like the 400 we have seen over the years to have them runa short time and find a crack in them after hard season of running.

Jegs offers a block http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/1029740/10002/-1/10719 with shipping for 1720.00

We should be able to offer the same block that will be line hone as needed deck to any demension, bored and plate honed, lifter bores sized if needed, cleaned and shipped in the U.S. for 1895.00

Over a Dart Little-M Sportsman block is a savings of 500 dollars.
what about a big block I was considering getting a aftermarket aluminum block to save weight with aluminum heads and all forged interanls. something in the 540 cubes so I can procharge it and run really fast and still street drive it. now in all honesty it will be purchased one peice at a time over the next 3-4 years as I dont have alot of cash and am just now struggling to finish this 468. thank you sorry about the highjack ppl
 

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This whole discussion is pointless without saying what kind of engine. Big Block? Small block? 400 SBC or 350 SBC?

Obviously the Dart would be stronger in every case, but it helps to know what kind of engine we are talking about.

Personally, I am using a GM 509 casting 2 bolt 400 block that has 4 bolt ProGram caps on it. The outer holes are splayed as the others mentioned.
 

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I just bit the bullet and bought a Little M from Carl. This will be outfitted with my new AFR 195 Competion Package Heads.

This block has less than 500 miles since built and never been over 5000rpm since the break in on the dyno. This block produce over 500 lbs torque and 487 hp.
Here are a few specs on the block.

SBC 400 OEM .040 over; Aligned Hone Main w/ studs; Torque Plate Honed; Deck .000 & plug; Oil Gallery holes Tap & Drilled;Screens in Lifter valley & Timing Chain.
The bore still have cross hatch visible and no lip on the block. This block was clearance for 6" rods and used a standard base cam.

Looking back in hindsight I should have bought the Dart. Live and Learn....







 

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I just bit the bullet and bought a Little M from Carl. This will be outfitted with my new AFR 195 Competion Package Heads.

This block has less than 500 miles since built and never been over 5000rpm since the break in on the dyno. This block produce over 500 lbs torque and 487 hp.


Looking back in hindsight I should have bought the Dart. Live and Learn....

Is something wrong with this block or you just got scared or it?
 

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Is something wrong with this block or you just got scared or it?
Nothing is wrong with the block, I bought the new AFR Heads was not willing to take a chance of something going wrong later down the road, so I made a decision to buy the Dart. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.
 

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I think the Little-M Sportsman block will be a good choice over a 400 block and I am sure it will be more dependable and the cylinder, lifter bore and cam tunnel locations will be a lot closer to blue print then the OEM blocks are.
 
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