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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting ready to paint my exhaust manifolds for my 69 396.
I was going to use Dupli - Color ceramic cast coat iron heat paint DE1651.
My buddy is a old Harley mechanic, he told me to paint the insides too, he said that he does this on bikes exhaust and they didn't turn blue.
Has anyone painted their inside and did you see ant benefit?
Thanks!
 

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:cool: I'm not sure your buddy's experience with chrome exhaust pipes on a bike translates to cast iron exhaust manifolds. The HD bikes use chromed pipes, which turn blue from the exhaust heat affecting the chrome finish. An actual cast iron exhaust manifold is not going to turn blue because it's not chromed. Your Buddy's idea of painting a VHT type paint inside the chrome pipes sounds good -- for a chromed pipe.

I like POR-15 high temp primer and then POR-15 high temp "cast iron."
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
:cool: I'm not sure your buddy's experience with chrome exhaust pipes on a bike translates to cast iron exhaust manifolds. The HD bikes use chromed pipes, which turn blue from the exhaust heat affecting the chrome finish. An actual cast iron exhaust manifold is not going to turn blue because it's not chromed. Your Buddy's idea of painting a VHT type paint inside the chrome pipes sounds good -- for a chromed pipe.

I like POR-15 high temp primer and then POR-15 high temp "cast iron."
I was just thinking by painting the inside it may keep them a tad cooler and would help the outside paint last longer. Same principal of the chrome staying cooler and not turning blue. Thoughts?
 

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I am getting ready to paint my exhaust manifolds for my 69 396.
I was going to use Dupli - Color ceramic cast coat iron heat paint DE1651.
My buddy is a old Harley mechanic, he told me to paint the insides too, he said that he does this on bikes exhaust and they didn't turn blue.
Has anyone painted their inside and did you see ant benefit?
Thanks!
They will turn pink then rust within 3 months if you use that as a coating for the manifolds. BTDT.
 

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It was quite a few years ago, but I used Eastwood's high temp paint (brush on) on 4 vehicles... Big block headers, big block stock exhaust, mid-80's Ford Crown Vic and a VW bug... The paint lasted, no rust or peeling, until the vehicles were sold (1-5 years) . I did bead blast everything prior to coating, and NO primer used...

Not sure if the formulation changed...
 

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I used the Eastwood paint,sandblasted the manifolds,baked them in the oven(oven in garage)for a couple hours @450,that got any oil ect. out. When cooled I cleaned them with good brake cleaner,dried them well, painted them and baked them again in the oven,can't remember the temp but I think its states the recommended temp on the can(used the brush on paint).Let them cool and repeated the process,three years and so far so good.
 

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My stock 1970 cast iron exhaust manifolds were painted by me 4-6 years ago and they LOOK like they were done yesterday ! SO !!!! If you are not ready to spend about eight or ten hours on your 40 / 50 year old exhaust manifolds, Do not waste your time reading this.
Just so you know. The manifolds on my driver that still look perfect have 4-6 years of driving time and over 36.000 miles on them.
I have worked in a glass house for years. I worked on cast iron, Or as we called it " Gray Iron " molds. Also just for kicks, The manifolds on my 1970 FRAUD SS 468 Red Sta. Wgn. Have THREE broken ears on the manifolds.
IF you can find the WELDED ON ears ( I did With an Ace & Oxy torch & Nirod , I also re " Stippled the weld to have the cast iron grain) you can HAVE the manifolds.
1- Glass bead the manifolds, Bake in the oven for 3-4 hours at 400 Degrees.
Shut the oven off and DO NOT open the door, Let them cool down.
2- Glass bead the second time and re/bake, Then let them cool down DO NOT open the door to look at them !
3- I use Eastwoods Stainless Steel manifold paint. Paint both manifolds. Keep your dam paws off the painted area. Bake AGAIN in the oven for 3-4 hours. Let them cool down.
4- NO FINGERPRINTS, Paint them again, Then bake ANOTHER 3-4 hours. Again, Let them cool down and keep the dam oven door shut.
5- Make sure they are flat, I always use cheeeeeeep cotton gloves or rubber gloves, To keep PAW PRINTS off the manifolds.
6- For a nice detail on 69-72 use the correct bolts ( The FITZ/ALL bolts ) from some places are NOT correct.
7- CYL. # 1--7 and # 2--8 on a B. Block get FLANGE HEAD bolts.
8- Cyl. # 3--5 and # 4--6 get a Grade 5/8 standard 3/8" bolt. With NO WASHER of any kind. NO flat washers or lock washers of any kind were used on 69-72 Big Block Chevy engines.
Depending on how correct you want to be. Org. 69-72 B.Block engines had " Factory Flange Head Lock bolts " (very hard to find) on the four corners. Also, I keep one of each factory flange lock and 3/8" bolt in both of my 70s for folks the say, " Your are full of SH!P ".
Yes its a PITA to do manifolds this way. But it all about the details, Nothing real nice is real easy.
Bob
 

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Yeah the POR 15 1200 degree paint would be much better.
Thanks!
I wouldn't use anything POR unless it was used to line a trash can. The paint will not work no matter whose it is. The only way to have them not rust is to have them skinned first then coat them with VHT cast iron.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys for all the help.......I forgot to mention that they are new manifolds so I don't have to deal with any rust.
Thanks again!
 

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VHT High Temp Aerosol Flat Black

VHT Flame Proof - 2000 Degrees and it works on headers, no reason it wont work on cast iron. I use it and I know it doesn't turn colors or burn off.



 

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No baking, no bull sh%$... hung them from a tree out front and gave them 3 coats. done.
 
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