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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Works great. We laid sheets of Saran Wrap in the door jambs, etc. then masked the edges. Works fantastic as it really clings to the fresh paint/clear. Zero overspray to buff out later, especially in the door hinge area. Thought I would pass it on for those that prefer to paint jambs first, then assemble car and spray outside. After a little tape edge sanding and buff, it is impossible to detect.

Mike
 

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I wonder how it would work for exterior tape off. Lay it on the windows and go back over it with a razor blade to make sure it conforms to the edges pefectly. I would only worry about it's hold out and removal, if it bled through or you couldn't remove it after that be an issue.
 

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With plastic sheeting you stand the risk of dried material breaking free when you are spraying the next coat or next product.
You really don't want to see a chunk of gray sealer land in your base!
A general rule is to not have any plastic within 18" of the sprayed area.
Use a quality masking paper for the 18" (or more) next to the sprayed area.
I would also have concerns of some products attacking the plastic.
 

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TechNova said:
With plastic sheeting you stand the risk of dried material breaking free when you are spraying the next coat or next product.
You really don't want to see a chunk of gray sealer land in your base!
A general rule is to not have any plastic within 18" of the sprayed area.
Use a quality masking paper for the 18" (or more) next to the sprayed area.
I would also have concerns of some products attacking the plastic.

Yep I've tried plastic and the same thing happened to me. The dried paint front the previuos coats flakes off and somehow always lands in the nice fresh wet paint...... Use paper!
 

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While I won't suggest that anyone do this, I have seen this work very well. In hardware stores, they sell "Drop Cloths" which are very light plastic. I have seen this light plastic taped on over different areas. like windshields, etc. No paint seepage at all, easy to put on and easy to take off. Plus, the paint seems to stick to this, pretty well. I have always removed my paper, etc, while the paint is not completely dried. So the flaking of hte paint, should not be a problem. So, I have considered using it, just haven't had the need yet.

Fred.
 

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lance-w said:
I haven't found the flaking when removing the masking to be a problem with the drop cloths but the spray gun seems to blast it off as you go by.
Exactly,
the air can also suck the plastic over onto the fresh paint also if it isn't fastened down well.
You shouldn't need to ask how I know.
 

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TechNova said:
With plastic sheeting you stand the risk of dried material breaking free when you are spraying the next coat or next product.
You really don't want to see a chunk of gray sealer land in your base!
A general rule is to not have any plastic within 18" of the sprayed area.
Use a quality masking paper for the 18" (or more) next to the sprayed area.
I would also have concerns of some products attacking the plastic.
This is somewhat the way we did it when we painted the stripes.

Link
 

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If you're blowing chunks of overspray off the plastic then you're definately using the Wrong plastic. I use 3M and Norton blue plastic masking film and the overspray sticks like glue, never had any blow off. $30 per roll and it'll do 10+ cars! They both have a coating on them to make sure your paint sticks, regular masking films, drop cloths, and general plastic sheeting doesn't.
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/Dat...ation_edit.asp?ele_ch_id=A0000000000000001747
Part #03345
 

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baddbob71 said:
If you're blowing chunks of overspray off the plastic then you're definately using the Wrong plastic. I use 3M and Norton blue plastic masking film and the overspray sticks like glue, never had any blow off. $30 per roll and it'll do 10+ cars! They both have a coating on them to make sure your paint sticks, regular masking films, drop cloths, and general plastic sheeting doesn't.
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/Data/Element/Node/Application/Application_edit.asp?ele_ch_id=A0000000000000001747
Part #03345
Yep, like Bob said. Make sure the writing is on the outside!!
 

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A very good paintshop that used to be around here used a lot of foil. They used it on a lot of stuff in the engine compartment like master cylinders ect.
I posted somewhere else that I used the corks out of Tequila bottles to put in holes I didn't want paint or gunk in. Sparkplug holes, the holes in my steering box, ect, ect. Latermen--Josh
 

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baddbob71 said:
If you're blowing chunks of overspray off the plastic then you're definately using the Wrong plastic. I use 3M and Norton blue plastic masking film and the overspray sticks like glue, never had any blow off. $30 per roll and it'll do 10+ cars! They both have a coating on them to make sure your paint sticks, regular masking films, drop cloths, and general plastic sheeting doesn't.
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/Dat...ation_edit.asp?ele_ch_id=A0000000000000001747
Part #03345
I agree, I use the 3M, writing out. I found out about the "ghosting" or whatever it's called if you put the writing down. I still paper first 18".
But, most DIY'ers won't spend the money and use hardware store plastic and that's where they get in trouble. They think plastic is plastic.

mac, I use alum. foil when painting a front structure in collision repair. you can wrap it around wires, hoses, etc without tape. It stays in place when hit with air. I'm usually from bare metal to done in three passes so dry blowoff is not a big problem.
I save all the plastic plugs from home and work (the ones that come with new parts) and keep them in a can for plugging holes, sounds like the corks would be more fun to collect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Let me re-phrase that....Am familiar with plastic blow off. It was exposed by a 1/4 inch door gap where there was no build up to speak of. Great for "masking" those hard to mask areas BEHIND the gaps. Then tape both edges and close door to seal. More insurance than anything. Certainly not a replacement for paper receiving direct overspray. Rather a way of ensuring no overspray gets beyond the taped door edge.

cheers,
MIke
 

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baddbob71 said:
If you're blowing chunks of overspray off the plastic then you're definately using the Wrong plastic. I use 3M and Norton blue plastic masking film and the overspray sticks like glue, never had any blow off. $30 per roll and it'll do 10+ cars! They both have a coating on them to make sure your paint sticks, regular masking films, drop cloths, and general plastic sheeting doesn't.
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/Dat...ation_edit.asp?ele_ch_id=A0000000000000001747
Part #03345

i agree.. we use the nortan blue stuff at school. works real nice. one side of the plastic says, this side out, thats the side that sticks the overspray to it.

aaron
 
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