[Andy69]

Actually, I think they call it semi flat black.

Anyway, I was trying to decide whether to sandblast and powder coat, paint with epoxy, or paint with POR15.

Ended up going with POR for budget reasons.

Glad I did. The POR15 semi flat is a dead ringer for the factory semi gloss frame paint. I painted the top half yesterday, and if it doesn;t rain I'm taking a few hours off this afternoon to finish the rest of the frame. Then I'll put up some pictures.

 

[Laszlo]

Don't forget, you need a top coat after using Por 15. Por 15 will turn gray when exposed to light. When I painted mine, I used Krylon (spray paint) 1613 or 51613 semi flat black; can't remember which one...one was discontinued. It turned out nice. Used about 6 cans for everything. Good Luck!

 

[Mike 69 SS396]

Don't forget, you need a top coat after using Por 15. Por 15 will turn gray when exposed to light. When I painted mine, I used Krylon (spray paint) 1613 or 51613 semi flat black; can't remember which one...one was discontinued. It turned out nice. Used about 6 cans for everything. Good Luck!

x2

Eastwood carries a finish that can be sprayed over POR15

 

[chevychad]

Unless you bought the POR15 Chassis paint, then it says right on the side "Not UV Sensitive." After I bought it, I then started to wonder, why I don't use the chasis paint for everything.

 

[MDchanic]

Unless you bought the POR15 Chassis paint, then it says right on the side "Not UV Sensitive." After I bought it, I then started to wonder, why I don't use the chasis paint for everything.

This is a problem that has vexed me to no end.

The descriptions on the label and on the web site are not clear.
They say that the Chassis Black is a top coat, but do not explicitly say that it has to be painted over a primer coat.
They also do not explicitly say that you can (or can't) paint it directly onto (cleaned) rust, the way you can with POR 15.

This fall, I painted a couple of rust spots on the bottom of my BMW with it because I didn't have any POR 15 on hand (My father said, "I've got some POR 15 over here," but it turned out to be Chassis Black, and, after lengthy "discussion" about its appropriateness for painting over rust, I just went and did it anyway, pretty much to prove him wrong...), so I'll tell you how it lasted through the winter when I've got the car up on the lift again.

If anyone knows more about this, please let me know.
(and, no, I did not call the company to ask - that would be like reading the instructions, which would violate a cardinal rule.)

- Eric

 

[cv67]

Blckcote is the topcoat I believe. Direct sunlight can hurt it but you wont notice it for weeks maybe months. Reflective light wont bother it at all.
No primer coat needed by the way just follow directions.

 

[Laszlo]

This is a problem that has vexed me to no end.

The descriptions on the label and on the web site are not clear.
They say that the Chassis Black is a top coat, but do not explicitly say that it has to be painted over a primer coat.
They also do not explicitly say that you can (or can't) paint it directly onto (cleaned) rust, the way you can with POR 15.

This fall, I painted a couple of rust spots on the bottom of my BMW with it because I didn't have any POR 15 on hand (My father said, "I've got some POR 15 over here," but it turned out to be Chassis Black, and, after lengthy "discussion" about its appropriateness for painting over rust, I just went and did it anyway, pretty much to prove him wrong...), so I'll tell you how it lasted through the winter when I've got the car up on the lift again.

If anyone knows more about this, please let me know.
(and, no, I did not call the company to ask - that would be like reading the instructions, which would violate a cardinal rule.)

- Eric

To expand on Eric's thoughts, Chassis Coat is designed as a top coat application over POR15. It does not have the rust encapsulating properties of POR15. Also, it is designed to paint over painted/primed surfaces. Basically, its the following step (top coat) after POR15. I attached the instructions below...if anyone is interested.

http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/chassiscoat directions.pdf

 

[Andy69]

I'm not even going to bother topcoating it with anything.

POR15 is UW sensitive, true, but for it to fade it needs to be exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time. On a frame that is UNDER a car that gets driven 1500 miles a year, and the rest of the time is in a garage under a cover, POR is not going to be anything but black in our lifetimes.

I've got a front sway bar I coated in 1997 that was on my vert until 5 years ago and now is leaning up against the wall in our screened in porch that still looks exactly like the day I painted it.

 

[Raven1]

Did anyone ever use SEM Rustshield? It can be painted over rust and paint, and has an optional hardener. Although it too does not provide 100% UV protection. These paints are not like the topcoats on you car's exterior. UV protection is an inherent part of them, it has to be. http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/RSH TDS.pdf I've used it and like it. It dries very fast, has excellent leveling properties and a nice sheen.

 

[TechNova]

I'm not even going to bother topcoating it with anything.

POR15 is UW sensitive, true, but for it to fade it needs to be exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time. On a frame that is UNDER a car that gets driven 1500 miles a year, and the rest of the time is in a garage under a cover, POR is not going to be anything but black in our lifetimes.

I've got a front sway bar I coated in 1997 that was on my vert until 5 years ago and now is leaning up against the wall in our screened in porch that still looks exactly like the day I painted it.

This has been my experience also.

 

[2guitars]

I'm not even going to bother topcoating it with anything.

POR15 is UW sensitive, true, but for it to fade it needs to be exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time. On a frame that is UNDER a car that gets driven 1500 miles a year, and the rest of the time is in a garage under a cover, POR is not going to be anything but black in our lifetimes.

I've got a front sway bar I coated in 1997 that was on my vert until 5 years ago and now is leaning up against the wall in our screened in porch that still looks exactly like the day I painted it.

I emailed POR15 support about this specifially and they replied that reflective UV is not to be concerned with and will have no effect.

 

[Andy69]

I'm goimg to add another post about how freakin awesome this paint is.

I don't know why I ever bothered with sandblasting and careful priming and painting in the past. This is so much quicker and in the end imho a better looking result. No spraying, no gun cleaning - just put it on with a brush and watch it level out into a perfectly smooth finish.

I finished up painting the frame last week, the areas I couldn't get to because it was sitting on saw horses. I did my first coat and before it was dry it rained (my bad for not checking the weather report first). Anyway, after it stopped, I checked the paint and it was dry enough for the second coat (slight finger drag). All I did was use a paper towel to blot off the beads of water from the rain then applied the second coat. Looks perfect.

try that with any other paint.

 

[1965stlhrsrdr]

i'm with Andy on this stuff.
i just painted mine for the second time.that's right 2x.first time i sandblasted and painted it with por chassis coat.loved the color,and the finish is absolutely awesome coming from a brush.then, last year,the so called body guy got over spray all over it.even worse,he tried to hide it by applying black paint with a brush over it.anyway,that's a whole nother chapter.
fast foward to the present.
i dis-assembled the entire frame,again.had it re-sand blasted.since this was my second go around with this frame,i decided to follow the directions to a "T".
so i blasted the frame,washed it with marine clean,sprayed it with metal prep,and then painted it with POR 15 semi gloss.leveled out smooth,but it is a little too shiny.SO,i ordered their etching primer and some chassis coat.have the POR 15 scuffed now,and i will paint it,hopefully for the last time,starting tomorrow evening and finish up saturday morning.

one word of advice to any of you thinking of using this product,DO NOT GET IT ON YOU! you will wear it for a while if it dries.ALSO,be careful not to buy too much.i painted my entire '65 frame(2 coats)with less than a quart.at $45 a quart,plus $100 for blasting,that's pretty decent cost to do the frame.

another note,i believe the Marine Clean is no different than "power clean" that you can get at o'rileys.the metal prep did leave the frame a green color(suppose to be a phosforous coating to help bonding) after it was rinsed and allowed to dry.

so even with the cost of the marine clean and metal prep,along with the quart of por 15,and $100 for blasting,i've got about $225 in painting my frame.that's not including top coat.it is another $45 quart.

i will definately use this again.:yes:

 

[RAIDER SS]

To expand on Eric's thoughts, Chassis Coat is designed as a top coat application over POR15. It does not have the rust encapsulating properties of POR15. Also, it is designed to paint over painted/primed surfaces. Basically, its the following step (top coat) after POR15. I attached the instructions below...if anyone is interested.

http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/chassiscoat directions.pdf

Don't lose sight of what Eric said here; chassis coat is NOT to be used as THE FIRST coat!!! POR 15 is designed to be used first, THEN chassis coat.
I know we are supposed to be men and not read directions.....but this is why products get bad raps; not following design intent.

The people that trash POR 15 are usually the ones that didn't follow directions. Chassis Coat directly over rust will eventually show rust again at some point.

 

[Andy69]

i'm with Andy on this stuff.
i just painted mine for the second time.that's right 2x.first time i sandblasted and painted it with por chassis coat.loved the color,and the finish is absolutely awesome coming from a brush.then, last year,the so called body guy got over spray all over it.even worse,he tried to hide it by applying black paint with a brush over it.anyway,that's a whole nother chapter.
fast foward to the present.
i dis-assembled the entire frame,again.had it re-sand blasted.since this was my second go around with this frame,i decided to follow the directions to a "T".
so i blasted the frame,washed it with marine clean,sprayed it with metal prep,and then painted it with POR 15 semi gloss.leveled out smooth,but it is a little too shiny.SO,i ordered their etching primer and some chassis coat.have the POR 15 scuffed now,and i will paint it,hopefully for the last time,starting tomorrow evening and finish up saturday morning.

one word of advice to any of you thinking of using this product,DO NOT GET IT ON YOU! you will wear it for a while if it dries.ALSO,be careful not to buy too much.i painted my entire '65 frame(2 coats)with less than a quart.at $45 a quart,plus $100 for blasting,that's pretty decent cost to do the frame.

another note,i believe the Marine Clean is no different than "power clean" that you can get at o'rileys.the metal prep did leave the frame a green color(suppose to be a phosforous coating to help bonding) after it was rinsed and allowed to dry.

so even with the cost of the marine clean and metal prep,along with the quart of por 15,and $100 for blasting,i've got about $225 in painting my frame.that's not including top coat.it is another $45 quart.

i will definately use this again.:yes:

That sucks about the overspray.

I really liked the job this local place did on my Buick paint, but they too got overspray on the chassis. Not a huge deal with that car but it will be with the convertible.

Anyway, xylol works well as a POR solvent. I use that to clean my POR brush (and it's a Purdy). Also in a pinch I've used Omni reducer.

As far as surface prep goes, I've never used any of their cleaning products.

The sway bar was grease covered when I pulled it at the junk yard. I took it to the car wash and blasted it with the wand, then soaked it in foamy engine cleaner and blasted it again, then took it home and scrubbed it with straight Dawn and a toothbrush, then sanded it to rough up the surface. That was 14 years ago.

This time I used purple stuff from Home Despot to clean, then instead of Metal Ready I used Prep and Etch from HD (exactly the same as Ospho and Right Stuff). Instead of $60/gal it's $15.

 

[1965stlhrsrdr]

"Not a huge deal with that car but it will be with the convertible."

when the paint is cured this time,i'm going to install the fuel line,and probally the main rear brake line,and then i'll wrap the entire frame with a stretch wrap.i,m going to leave the mount holes open on top,and wrap around all suspension mounts.i got a roll of this at lowe's,it is 5" wide.it is real thin like saran wrap and only sticks to itself.my thinking is,i don't know how long it will take me to get the car back in paint,and the wrap should be pretty easy to remove,slice once the body is re-installed and painted.

 

[Andy69]

I've seen a lot of people do it that way. It helps for keeping the chassis clean while doing body work, too

 

[murph182]

Hey Guys,
The only thing that I've found that will remove POR 15 from your skin is Goof Off. You can buy it at K-Mart or Menards and many mom and pop hardware stores. But, you should try to get it off before it dries to the skin.
Murph 182

1964 Chevelle SS
1972 BB Chevelle Pro Touring

 

[Greg]

...you should try to get it off before it dries on the skin.

Just wear a pair of disposable nitrile gloves and an old long sleeve shirt while you're using it, and you won't have to be concerned with getting any of it on your skin.
A lot of auto parts stores sell nitrile gloves.

-Greg

 

[Dean]

When the car is all finished, don't leave it upside down out in the sun.

I've seen people say before that POR15 won't wash off of skin without some special solvent or the other. I must have gotten some bad formula mix or something when I did my frame because both the base coat and the top coat washed off with lacquer thinner just fine. I used throw away sponge rubber brushes and didn't let the stuff dry on my hands tho.