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Paint practice plan critique

871 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  67shovel
Hey all, I want to begin practice the painting process now for a 69 chevelle. After reading thru quite a few posts here and elsewhere I decided to practice on the front fenders and the hood as "practice first" is the most common thread. If I mess the front fenders up too bad, I am willing to replace them. They have rust in the usual lower spots. I will be replacing the hood anyway. I just don't want to practice on new sheet metal parts. Below is my plan for the fenders and hood. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have questions within the sentences.

I'll work with a local paint shop and make sure I use the same brand throughout. I will be using PPG paint products as I have a few friends that have experience with it. Their results have turned out nice.

I'll make sure the shop I paint in is clean, safe and properly ventilated. When it comes to spraying the car, I actually have a paint booth I can use.

I still need to buy paint guns but I need to match one to the compressor we are using.

Here is the plan.

1. Patch fender panels, sand and grind down welds.
Do I apply the bondo/filler for the completion of the fender/weld repair or wait until later? If so at what stage do I appy the filler? What is a good filler recommendation?

2. Strip all other paint with Aircraft Chem strpper. The hood does not need repair, just prep and paint.

3. Clean thoroughly with simple green and hot water then rinse well. Dry the surface with compressed air and microfiber towels.

4. go over the metal with a DA to add some scratch. 80 Grit ??

5. Wipe down with a quality Wax and Grease Remover. (spray or wipe on with cloth and then immediately wipe it off with a clean cloth) Let dry.

6. Spray 2 coats of epoxy primer.
How much dry time between coats? I suppose the paint person will be able to tell me?

7. 2k primer (multiple coats, block sand with guide coat, repeat till straight, etc.)
Dry times between coats?

8, Spray Sealer.
Dry time?
9. Spray Base coat
Dry time

10. Clear coat.

Ok - thanks for taking the time to read the long post. Feel free to beat up/add this plan.
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Sounds like a good plan to me. You don't match a paint gun to a compressor though, you just buy a paint gun and have a good enough compressor to use it. When you strip the car start with a big puddle on the roof and spread it out. Think of stripper as lacquer thinner and wax mixed. When you pour it out you spread it quick and leave it be because the wax will form on the top trapping the lacqer thinner so it can do it's job. When you go back and mess with it you break the wax biuld up and it doesn't work as well. Once it's bubbled the paint use a big bondo squeegy to spread it to a different part of the roof. Once it has filled up with the roof paint it gets thick enough to hang on the sides of the car. I fold out boxes under the car to catch the dripping stripper and pick it up with a dust pan and reuse it. The stuff is getting so expensive that you want to reuse it when you can. I wear dish washing gloves with stripper instead of th vinyl throw aways. Have a garden hose and or a bucket of water right there to flush any stripper that gets on you. Wash off the stripper and I scrub it with a wire brush to remove it and paint. You've got to get all that stripper off or you'll contaminate your primer coat. Da with 80 and then move up to 120 before priming. All your mixing and dry times are listed on your paint cans. When painting, stay out of the fumes by staying up wind of your exhaust fans as much as possible. Wear full coverage clothes and go and take a good shower when finished. The paint will make you sick these days. There is much more togo into on complete body work and painting so you might try asking specific questions one or two at a time. Good luck.
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