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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a few months ago i took my car to a machanic to have him put a 350 in place of the 230 and put a Painless wiring kit in. Well he desided he didnt have the time.I cant find anyone who wants to tackle this job it was hard enough finding someone to replace the engine. How hard is it to rewire a car your self? doesnt have power windows or locks
 

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I guess it depends on the car. Do you actually need to rewire the ENTIRE CAR? If you're just doing an engine swap, it's entirely possible that you just need to replace the engine harness to accomodate the differences from L-6 to V-8. If that's the case, my suggestion is to sell the Painless harness (if you've already bought it) to a street rodder or race guy, and get an original style harness from M & H wiring fabricators. That would make it REAL SIMPLE. Judging from the fact you're asking, I'm gonna assume real simple would be desirable for you.

Don't you just hate when someone commits to something then strings you along for weeks before they ultimately blow you off? Been having that crap with remodeling subcontractors!

SKIP
 

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Originally posted by nt4sell:
a few months ago i took my car to a machanic to have him put a 350 in place of the 230 and put a Painless wiring kit in. Well he desided he didnt have the time.I cant find anyone who wants to tackle this job it was hard enough finding someone to replace the engine. How hard is it to rewire a car your self? doesnt have power windows or locks
I've done a whole car with Painless (a '71 Nova). It takes a while because you have to route and terminate each wire. Make sure you have a good quality crimper. It's not impossible but it does take plenty of time. For my '70 chevelle I just went and got the M&H stuff for it. Much easier. It just plugs in like the factory stuff. Very quick and looks stock! M&H is my preference but the Painless stuff can work too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i was kinda wanting to do the whole car. my best freinds fairlane is constantly having things short out and i didnt want to have problems like that.
 

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Just a tip if doing the whole car with a Painless harness. Be sure to keep every bit of the old harness and label it at each point of connection. (Glove box light, seat belt light, cig. lighter, etc.) You will not get many connectors with the Painless for the misc. accessories and they can be hard to find. Painless is the way to go if you are doing extensive mods to the car. All the wires are labeled where they attach and they give you plenty of extra circuits to run power windows/locks, electric fuel pump, etc. M&H would be better for stock replacement and is more modular. Also, if you are going to re-wire the whole car, moving inner fender wells, pulling the interior and the dash makes it a whole lot easier. If you are having shorting problems(with an original harness), check your lamp housings and any bulkhead and sub connectors - where they pass through metal. You might be able to clear up problems with a quick repair.(I think your friend's problem is because it's a FoRd!) :D
 
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