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Discussion Starter #1
Well, last weekend was my big debut at my local car show and it went really bad. In the snails pace crawl we were in, my car heated up to 300 degrees and then shut off... Motor is 4 bolt main, 400SB....
I have an aluminum radiator and stock fan, but I had a chrome shroud on it and it doesn't go all the way down the radiator or enclose the fan.. do you think this was part of the problem, because when I get moving it cools back down.
The other problem I have is I am fouling plugs really bad, they are so black and crusty after 1 days use that the car almost refuses to run, and I get backfires and misses all over the place- it blows carbon- fuel-like black smoke out of the left pipe, and it the plugs smell like fuel. Is this a jet problem with my carb?
My aluminum valve covers are leaking oil, too. I am going to get the Comp Polymer's, are these any good?
If anyone has any input, then fire away cause I am beginning to get annoyed with my car.

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Julie
'71 Chevelle
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/7827
 

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Hi Julie,

That's a nice car you have there. Your web site is cool too.

First, make sure your thermostat is working. If in doubt, replace it.

How big is this radiator of yours? How many rows of fins does it have? Are you sure it is big enough? Some of those Aluminum radiators are built light for drag racing. They don't cool that well in traffic or idle conditions. If it only has two rows, it could be too small. I like 3 or 4 row radiators.

A better shroud may help. Also make sure the fan is at the proper depth inside the shroud.

Plug fouling could be related to your ignition. Make sure you have the proper distributor advance. Make sure the wires do not have too much resistance. Mechanics have machines that can test your wires.

I don't know much about Moroso ignition. I assume it is an HEI pointless distributor. If you _do_ have points, check them. Make sure the little contact pads are smooth and clean. Make sure your dwell is set properly. Always set timing again after you change the dwell.

I would check ignition first, then look at the carb. Especially if the carb is pretty new or freshly built. Are all the plugs fouling equally? If not, look closely at the fouled plug. Is it cracked or separated in any way? Is the wire good?

Good luck,




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Jameel Qazi
#'s 67 SS
 

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I wonder if the metering rods in your carb are stuck in the up position. Or perhaps the floats have sunk. It definitly sounds like a flooding problem. Make sure the ignition is correct before tackling the carb.

300 degrees is WAY TOO HOT! According to Chevrolet, the max operating temp for a small block is 245degs. I'd be real concerned about oil break down. If fact, don't start the engine again until you change the oil and filter. Sadly, with the engine this hot you may have damaged something. Did the engine smell like very hot oil, I hope not. If you use synthetic you may not have any problem in this regard.

I hate to bring bad news like this but if the worst happens you might be looking at a rebuild
I sure hope not. Not only that but the trans may have overheated, too. Take a look at the tranny fluid if it is still pink/red you are probably ok. If it is brown you might have a problem. I sure hope I'm wrong.

I hesitate to post this, since it has so much bad news. Lets hope none of this is right except, maybe, the metering rods.


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Pat Kelley
66 & 67 El Caminos

[This message has been edited by Pat Kelley (edited 07-01-99).]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey thanks for your input, but we checked the fluids and they were ok, no damage done, that I know of, yet. We adjusted the carb and the rods were indeed stuck- I tore it down and cleaned the whole thing and then put new rods, jets and springs in and everything is peachy as far as fuel flow goes, and a new set of plugs and wires, since I cooked 2 of them on the headers. Now the only problem that I have is oil leak from the valve covers. Any suggestions?


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Julie
'71 Chevelle
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/7827
 

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To solve the valve cover problem:

1. Buy 2 new thick gaskets
a. RTV Gasket Maker
b. 800 & 1600 grit wet/dry sand paper(1 sheet each)
c. Crocus Cloth

2. Apply the gaskets with a thin coat of RTV on the up side... let it set up

3. While it is setting up find a work space that dosen't mind some water. Staple or tape the sand papaer to the bench, then wet down with water. Plane the valve cover on the paper till you get a real dark slurry on the paper... keep going adding water as needed. Once you are satasfied with the 800grit finish, move up to the 1600 then crocus cloth. The trick to planing like this is to apply preasure evenly. What you should have when you are done is a smooth clean and even finish.

4. Once you are clean and dry and the RTV has setup, slap them together and torque the bolts evenly working on the "opposite theory" like an intake maifold. If it still leaks rip out the motor and get a ZZ502/502


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Francis Taracido
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If the valve covers have flanges around the edge, Quad's plan might not work. Do the bolts loosen up? mine do. If so lock washers might help. Alum is prone to cracking perhaps...?

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Pat Kelley
66 & 67 El Caminos
 

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I have a 66 chevelle with a 400sb. I love the sm 400, a great engine. I have a 4row rad with a flex fan and no shroud.The car runs between 180 and 200. There are two 12inch electric fans facing the engine, bolted on the rad support. This helps alot! they are hooked up to a thermostat so they come on at 200. I got both fans from a junkyard, look in chevettes and small imports. Its a cheap set up that saved me a 1000 times. Great website but was that a dodge I saw! yuck!yuck!
 
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