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66 Chevelle SS396 & 66 Chevelle 327 Convertible.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Which is better to use with a Generation I Chevy SB? Finally settled on replacing the oil pan gasket and most likely the timing cover gaskets. I have heard of some people cutting out the front seal of a one piece rubber gasket and filling that area with Ultra Gray. Maybe the old true and tested 4 piece gasket is the best way to go.
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Race engine shop used Ultra Gray on my 489 and no leaks
 

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Why would you want to cut a one piece oil pan seal on a gen 1 SBC. Defeats the purpose buying an expensive one piece seal.
 

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Toyota/Lexus FPIG is indeed the shit! Learned that when I worked for Lexus and have used it ever since.
 
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Jim,
Dont take this the wrong way but ..... you are making this WAY too complicated. There are literally millions of small block chevy engines that came from GM without a drop of any type of RTV on them and they all worked fine without leaking oil.

The first thing you need to do is pull the pan and find out exactly where it is leaking from. Then pick a gasket and install it. The only RTV you should need is a dap at each of the 4 corners, period.

I cant tell from your picture but is there a bolt in one of the two holes on the front of the block right in front of the fuel pump ?
 

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"I have heard of some people cutting out the front seal of a one piece rubber gasket and filling that area with Ultra Gray.'

As stated, don't take this wrong way, but I've never heard of that. I have used the one piece gasket on a 427, then swapped to to my 540; also used them on 3 small blocks, and took pan off for oil pump change...NEVER had any leaks with any of these engines. I don't know what the big deal is over these one piece gaskets, but my experience has been good and much easier to install without the voodoo of RTV on the corners; one piece user friendly.

On the comments about which sealant; has anyone found a brand that will not harden in the tube once it's been opened??

Bob
 

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The only way you can keep any sealant from hardening is to rid all the air or if UV cured the UV light from it. Bags IE Plastic will work short time period as the molecular sized holes in the plastic stop the water or liquids and even some air from getting in or out of the bag. Layers of bags is better but still the size of the molecule of the solvent coming out of the goop is smaller that an oxygen molecule so it can escape and dries out...Solution a vacuum chamber.
If you have an old canning jar and can use a new metal lid put the tube in the jar and drill a hole in the lid so it can accept an air valve that will allow you to draw out the oxygen in the jar when the lid is on and tightened down... It doesn't have to be an atmosphere lower just under a vacuum void of oxygen. You can check the jar under water to look for leaks IE water seeping into the jar past the seal. It shouldn't unless the valve is not an air tight seal... That is how you preserve fruit and food heat it up then seal it and as in cools it creates an vacuum and is void of oxygen.
I am not sure how difficult it would be to open the jar... I would say the same as any other jar under a Vacuum like Jam or preserves...or add air through the valve and open...
Seems like a lot of work to preserve a tube of goop but if you have a bigger jar more tubes fit inside... Glass and metal with rubber gasket on lid... airtight!
 

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"I have heard of some people cutting out the front seal of a one piece rubber gasket and filling that area with Ultra Gray.'

As stated, don't take this wrong way, but I've never heard of that. I have used the one piece gasket on a 427, then swapped to to my 540; also used them on 3 small blocks, and took pan off for oil pump change...NEVER had any leaks with any of these engines. I don't know what the big deal is over these one piece gaskets, but my experience has been good and much easier to install without the voodoo of RTV on the corners; one piece user friendly.

On the comments about which sealant; has anyone found a brand that will not harden in the tube once it's been opened??

Bob
Bob,
I have found that the best way is to get some of the long "nozzle" type tips. When you are done using the tube put the nozzle on it and squeeze till the nozzle is full. then just leave it. The first inch or so at the tip of the nozzle will set up but the rest of it wont :)
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Squeeze a little into the regular cap and put it on try to keep the air out, works 50/50 LOL
 

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No one answered my question "Why would you want to destroy a one piece oil pan gasket in the first place". They do not leak, at least not on any car that I have installed them on.
 

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66 Chevelle SS396 & 66 Chevelle 327 Convertible.
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I forget the name; but a respected engine builder on TC mentioned he did this because the front seal on the one piece gaskets don’t fit into the oil pan the greatest, especially on aftermarket oil pan. A better option then trying to modify the pan to fit the gasket.

i re-read the post, Jeff Swisher. He removed the timing cover and cut off the lower rubber section, I think he meant the rubber seal and filled the cavity with ultra gray.
 

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Jim,
....I cant tell from your picture but is there a bolt in one of the two holes on the front of the block right in front of the fuel pump ?

713861
Jim, you haven't answered the question that Bill K asked you here^ in post # 6
 

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Didn’t really understand the question. I think the answer is yes.
Just making sure because if that bolt is not there it will make an oil leak that has fooled several guys over the years, including me a loooooong time ago :)
 
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