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Optima Red Top 25. Nothing fancy and all stock in my '64 SS. Nothing drawing and a new alternator indicating charging is good and not overcharging. I purchased a new red top off amazon for a good price. It shipped directly from amazon as a stock item and was charged when it arrived. Within 2 weeks it appears I lost a cell and wouldn't hold a charge and go above 6V. Amazon is good at customer service and shipped me out another battery 2 weeks ago. They let me keep the old battery as they won't want a return of old batteries for haz mat reasons. Yesterday I go to start the car and dead. I had it on the trickle charge letting it sit most of the day and it never got up to full charge. I may run this one over to O'reillys to see if they can do a batt draw down check to see if this one has a bad cell. WTH

Any suggestions with this battery. For me it was more aesthetics that I got the Optima for the red top as it matches the car color. Are these batt's in the 25 model having issues? Any ideas on what to check or maybe go to a different model Optima. Thanks.
 

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I have had two 78's (p/n 8078-109) in my 2004 Silverado diesel p/u for eight years now and had a 25 (p/n 8025-160) in a 2005 Corvette for six years when I sold the car.
 

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UPDATE: In going back through the electrical and looking for any draw, I found out my ignition switch when on the lock position will draw 3 amps. Soon as you move it to off position then the draw stops. The '64's ignition switches seem to have a mind of their own. I don't have an issue with it in the off position but the car can be started without the key. Not always a good thing when at car shows. I may either get a new switch or put a batt cutoff in for security.

Now that leads me to my next issue. With a 3 amp draw for about 3 days, the battery went bone dead. I've had it on the trickle charge all day and it has not come back fully. All lights are good and car will start but the charger is indicating not fully charged and should have been for the amount of time. Could I have killed a cell or done damage with that draw for all those days??? If so, looks like I'll be getting another batt from Optima.
 

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What kind of charger are you using?
I think those AGM batteries require a more sophisticated charger if they are completely discharged.
I have a yellow top in my 66 Chrysler and when it was completely dead, I had to get a charger rated for AGM or lead acid batteries to bring it back.

P.S.
That's why I have a good old Interstate battery in the El Camino and the 67 Cougar.
 

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Some years ago, Optima shifted production to Mexico. Its' been downhill since then. If you get one that's good and lasts, you're lucky. If you can't bring this battery back to life, it's dead. If you do, as it dropped to 0%, it will never get back up to 100%.

The better aftermarket battery today is Odyssey.

Sorry!

FWIW, the battery I chose for the Monte is an Interstate Megatron Plus for a Ford Crown Vic, 850 CCA.
 
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It doesn't matter what battery you have, if you have a 3 amp draw left unattended for days, you will "murder" any passenger vehicle battery.
While it is true that an unknown draw will drain a battery, Optima batteries are known for being very difficult to bring back from the dead-if they can be revived at all.
 

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If an Optima (gel) battery is allowed to drain below 10.5 volts it either will require a special charger or be charged in a non conventional way. Basically you must hook the charger to a known good battery and then use jumper cables from the known good battery to the Optima. Just had a red top die on me that I bought in March 2010. Had to charge it in that fashion a few times.
 

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Hello, I noticed your conversation involving our batteries and wanted to offer some assistance, especially given all the false and speculative information posted about our products. Let's be very clear with what happened here. Antalamo had a 3-amp draw that was discharging his batteries. A group 25 RedTop has a capacity of 44 Ah, so a 3-amp draw will completely discharge that battery in just over 14 hours. That has nothing to do with product quality (and our quality is as good as it has ever been) and everything to do with math. People buy batteries to deliver current, not to decide when and where that current should be delivered.

Antalamo, thank you for posting the update about the draw in your car, as that rarely happens. I often see people start a description of what they believe is a battery problem by saying they have a new alternator, which the alternator guys and I generally agree is a sign of an electrical issue that probably never had anything to do with the battery or alternator.

Any batteries that have been discharged to the extent that Antalamo's batteries have, may not be able to be charged with most batteries chargers on the market. That is because most battery chargers will not recognize or deliver current to any batteries (AGM or flooded) that have been discharged below a minimum voltage level, typically around 10.5 volts. At about 2.1 volts per cell, the thought is that anything below 10.5 volts must have a bad cell. That could be the case, but oftentimes, including in this instance, that isn't the case at all.

We asked some of the most popular battery charger manufacturers for years to change their chargers, so they could recover deeply-discharged batteries, but our requests mostly fell on deaf ears. Now there are a bunch of people (and even a few retailers) who deeply-discharge their batteries and the chargers they have won't work, so they think the batteries are not recoverable. We started making our own chargers, which will recover batteries that have been discharged down to 1.25 volts, which is the best in the industry, but deeply-discharged batteries can still be recovered with other chargers, using the technique blm mentioned (our batteries are not gel batteries), which we also explain in this video- https://youtu.be/ovtO4C68Sg4

Running a second battery with known good voltage in parallel will trick an old charger by allowing it to see voltage in the good battery and deliver current to the deeply-discharged battery. Many of the “bad” batteries returned to us under warranty now are just deeply-discharged and work fine, when properly-recharged. We send a steady stream of them out to the Roadkill guys to run in their vehicles and we've outfitted entire fields of Chumpcar endurance racers with someone else's “dead” batteries.

One more important thing to consider is that this conversation is taking place because Antalamo's retailer sent him another replacement Optima battery with no questions asked, even though there was probably nothing wrong with the first battery they sent him. If you think these deeply-discharged battery issues are somehow unique to Optima, take a close look at the warranty terms of many other AGM batteries on the market, especially as it relates to minimum voltage levels. There are some AGM brands that will void your warranty entirely, if your voltage is less than 10 volts, which as we've seen here, is really easy to do. You can read our full warranty here and you won't see any exclusions for minimum voltage levels.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
 
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