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We've got a numbers matching 70 that came from the factory with drum front brakes. Should I convert to disc or leave drum? Will it hurt the value of the car in the future? Your help would be appreciated. Pete and Nicholas

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Member# 1097
67 std camaro conv 327/210, 1978 annv vette, 1985 Z28 Camaro, 1970 Chevelle, challenged deer now in rehab, 00 grand prix, www.chevelles.com/showroom/no1dc1.jpg

[This message has been edited by no1dc (edited 08-24-2001).]
 

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If you want better stopping power AND a safer vehicle, by all means make the swap! BUT, save ALL the old pieces. DON'T throw ANY parts away, especially if numbers matching means that much. Numbers matching is nice on an SS, but doesn't make a huge difference on most Malibu models, except if the buyer is "into" the numbers matching thing. I lived for 28 years with manual drums on my Chevelle, having converted to power front discs 3 years ago. Believe me, I'd never go back!

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MalibuJerry350
TC Member #1279
Original owner '70 Chevelle.
560,000+ miles on car.
Hey, if it's got wheels, DRIVE IT!
My Chevelle: http://hometown.aol.com/erie614/myhomepage/index.html

[This message has been edited by MalibuJerry350 (edited 08-24-2001).]
 

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I personally think that doing the disc brake conversion would increase the value of the car. It's a sought after option, and something a lot of people look for when they're shopping for old cars. Not to mention the safety factor of discs over drums.

Just my .02 .

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Nick
Proud owner of a 66 Malibu -
355, four speed, 3.08 pegleg

14.94 @ 93.75 (Needs work, I know)

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If the car will be street driven do the conversion. I converted mine and the difference is like night and day. Save the parts in case you want to sell it.
Jim H
69 Malibu
 

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Absolutely. Like Nick said, it would probably increase the value. What you need to do is find a complete setup off of any 70 Chevelle. You have to look for them but they are out there.

Of course the kits they make look almost original anyway, so you can't go wrong either way.

I'm still bummed that you hit that deer, doc. Man, that still makes me sick. Sounds like ya'll are going to make it like new again. Good luck!

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-Mark
TC# 717
ACES #1641
1967 Chevelle SS396/375
1967 RailVelle(Parting out)
1964 Chevelle 283/195
1975 Corvette 396/425
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Any 68-72 A-Body. Next time around I'd buy the kit. BY the time you scout all the parts, rebuild then, sandblast and paint, the effort is a pain and you could've just bought a kit. To answer the questions though, I have them on my 66 Elky, and as stated, I would never wish for drums on anyone. LIFE SAVERS!

Got a little frisky with a ZR-1 when they first came out back in the early 90's in downtown SanDiego, and had to put the pedal to the floor doing 70 to stop at a light. I don't need to explain what happens after 15 seconds of hard braking = NO brakes.

Of course I don't do that anymore, but nonetheless, discs are worth it.
 

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Well, on a resto numbers car I donnow. Folks have driven my car and they ask if they are manual discs. They are not. I have NO QUALMS stopping from 100mph+ .

NONE, I repeat NONE.

Why? Praise DynoBrake Kevlar semi metallic shoes with extra heavy hardware and a system that is compeltley rebuilt and maintained properly. I'm not saying they are as good as discs, I still get pull once in a while, but no fade. None.

Anyway, its a good alternative and as a guess I;d say 85% as effective as front discs.

Praise is in Texas. Shoes aint cheap BTW, they they sure do work well.
 

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An excellent alternative Gene. I've read a number of old road tests in which the subject vehicle was equipped with the optional semi metalic linings. No Fade.

IMHO, to disk or not to disk really depends on how you drive the car. For a daily driver, or for a very agressivly driven car, disks do provide for less fade in successive hard braking from higher speeds, and easier pedal modulation. Are they more powerful? Not likely; both disks and drums will lock up nearly any size tire you put under the car.

Will converting hurt the value? Only if you plan to sell it in the future as an "original" and your documentation doesn't show disks as an ordered option. I'd suspect that - even if you do save all the original parts, a potential buyer, interested in an unmolested original, will offer you a slightly lower price for having to go through the trouble of putting all those parts that are in boxes - or the trunk, back onto the car. Or, are you going to want to "un-convert" it to close the deal?

So, if ya drive it a lot, or drive it very hard, disks may give you some piece of mind. If you drive it like the old fart that I am, leave the drums intact. But keep in mind that if you're going over the crest of a hill too quickly and can't see the cars stopped on the other side (or just don't think about the possibility of them being there), you won't be able to install rotors or tires big enough to save your bacon.

There's just nothing more effective than driving smart.

Dan

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Awww, fer cyrin out loud, there's that IMPALA guy again.

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/ss3964spd?d&.flabel=fld1&.src=ph

[This message has been edited by ss3964spd (edited 08-24-2001).]
 

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That is the best upgrade that I made to my 70 chevelle. It is like night and day. I used to have to use two feet to stop short. The first time you take it out with disc brakes be careful not to put yourself through the windshield. It is that much of a difference. If your looking to save money, get all the parts off of another car. It really isn't that hard to do. disk brake spindles, rotors ,calipers,a proportioning valve and a booster. Be sure not to have the front springs come out when you break the ball joints apart.
 

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If you do decide to switch, I agree with rat4spd, Buy a kit!

I chased parts for a Month on and off and ended up spending $550 on everything in new, resoted, or like-new condition. For just a little more, i coulda got a whole setup of brand new stuff that was higher quality.

I never had a problem when I had drums on my car, but when I drove a 71 LeMans with power disks i decided it was worth it.

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I wouldn't worry about disc brakes hurting the value of the car at all. I doubt there are too many people who will be too concerned if a drum brake car has been converted to disc. My guess is that if someone is that concerned they will be looking for something that is basically unaltered from the factory, paint, interior, radio, rims, etc. I wouldn't even keep the original stuff unless I had more than adequate storage.

Steve R.
 

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Gene, point well taken. How many semi's do we see with disc brakes? And we're talkin what? Maybe 80,000 lbs ? I'd still go with the discs though, because as you said, the system needs the tip top stuff and the knowledge to get the good performance out of it. I don't know, maybe it's laziness. With discs, all you need are two true rotors and a set of half a$$ brake pads.

I must say though that my swap probably wouldn't have happened had it not been for a large hole/slot where one of my upper bushings was supposed to be.
 

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I would have to say stay with the drums. For originality and if they are set up right they work good. I second the praise dyno brakes. I dont have them just yet but a friend does and his buick stops from a 125+ run in no time (he takes the first exit not the second) and has NO FADE at all. I have the organics on my 68 BB car with drums and i have to take the second exit off the strip. I will get the praise brakes and never look back. CHRIS
 
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