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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am considering running subj alternator on the street. Can someone tell me the pros and cons on running this set up on the street vice the 2 terminal std alternator?

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Tom (Wildman704)
72 Chevelle SS454
67 Camaro Super Street
runs 10.3's @ 130 mph
01 Vette
98 Ram V10 (tow truck)
 

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Comments to this should be interesting. Not everyone's situation is the same.
For me, it's a con. My car is a daily driver that spends a lot of time in stop and go traffic. Engine idles most of the time. The engine RPM is not high enough to excite a one-wire alternator. Don't want to sit there racing the engine. The original GM alternators worked for me for 30 years on the Chevelle. No need to convert now.
 

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Hey John, I thought once the engine was revved once to the 'exciter' rpm the alt would be charging at ANY rpm and not have to be held at at certain rpm?Al

(Just pushing the wrong buttons today and messing up things.
John)

[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 12-17-2001).]
 

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You are probably right. Typing too fast this morning. I'm probably thinking of the complaints on the Powermaster units where voltage wasn't being maintained at low RPM.
 

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The low current at idle may be more related to the max output rating of the alternator. Alternators can sacrifice low speed output to get the big number (100amps) at the higher speeds. Kinda like choosing a camshaft.
 

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Tom, I have a Powermaster 100 amp, 1 wire alternator in my 66. You only need to rev it once to start the alternator charging. You can change the level of charge in the lower rpms by replacing pulleys. A larger crank or smaller alt pulley will speed up the alt and charge more in the lower rpms. You have to be careful not to "over-spin" the alternator, though. I haven't had any problems with mine yet, but I haven't put it under the load of the lights and heater at idle yet. It puts out a constant 14.4 (approx) volts at an 800 rpm idle. This is with a load of approx. 22 amps or so (ignition box, electric fan and water pump).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
TW and others, Thanks for the feedback. Does anyone have any personal experience running something like this on the street at night under load? My plan is just to drive it to crusin and short distances but coming home at night.
 

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wildman,
Not to be a smartass or anything, but is there any particular reason(s) you feel you need the 100A version of the alt.?? And why the 1 wire?

I had a local starter/alternator rebuilding service take one of my old alternators and convert it to an internally regulated 100A alt. I ciuld have gone to the 1 wire, but chose not to, you will lose the ALT light on your dash if you do the 1 wire thing. Mine ended up being a 2-wire as the other wire off the 2-terminal connector is just looped back to the main charging wire. This way I still have my ALT light on the dash, but all the benefits of the internally regulated and higher output.

Some of the other responses are correct, you only need to excite the exciter once, then it will continue to charge no matter what rpm it falls to. Yes, output is typically rated at something quite a bit higher than idle, but if you let the rebuilder know you want more output at less rpm, they can somewhat tailor that to your needs. I went to the 100A because it was not much more money, I run a pretty decent stereo with two amps, I put in halogen headlamps, and I'm still thinking about electric fans.

My advice is to shop around locally and talk to some shops that can build you what you want. You will end up getting more of what you want and less marketing BS.

Bill C.


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Bill C.
'71 SS (now with 467BBC)
'70 Nova 350/700r4
ACES #2780
Colo Spgs, CO
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BC, The 1 wire alternator is on my 67 Camaro 502/600 hp race car. I am seriously considering driving this machine to crusin and to local car shows. I have no warning light on my dash. My concern was driving the Camaro home after it gets dark with the lights on. When I race it on the track this is not an issue. click on: www.BIGBLOCKCHEVY.COM/ClubsProj/ThomasMinnick.html#Anchor

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Tom (Wildman704)
72 Chevelle SS454
67 Camaro Super Street
runs 10.3's @ 130 mph
01 Vette
98 Ram V10 (tow truck)
 

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John/Tom

I have e-mailed proform again about the proper configuration for this alternator, they didn't respond to my last request.

John, as you know, I went over to Tom's (great guy, great collection of cars) and we discovered that his alternator, the one he is considering running in his velle, is exactly like mine. It also has the plastic cover over the connectors that I have been asking you about. He currently has that alternator on a sweet comaro drag car which does not have a standard harness, obiously, and it is configured as a true one wire set up but his system is simple compared to a full harness car, i.e., his alternator is wired directly to the battery.

therefore, maybe I've wired my setup wrong, or I don't know how to measure the output. Could you expand on how the wiring should run for a true on wire given the harness? would I just eliminate the wire in the harness up from the alternator that now runs to the horn relay and run a wire directly to the battery? where and how do I check for output? I used a volt meter across the battery terminals expecting 14.4 or above volts if it was charging the battery.

thanks
 

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John/Tom/Guys

I got the skinny on this thing finally. In my most resent message to proform I mentioned this discussion on "a chevelle site" within 5 min I got a response asking if it was chevelletech, I mailed back that it was and the guy e-mailed back within a min or so and asked me for my phone number then he called me.

the deal is this.

this style alternator can be run one wire by running a wire direct from the battery to the alternator, it gets its "excitement" from increased RPMs; or you can remove the cap, of which I spoke, and wire it using the jumper kit/wiring system that incorporates the bulb in the idiot light to place enough resistance on the line to excite the alternator at low RPMs. The guy recommended running it true one wire for race applications and using the jumper/bulb method for street/harness use.

I'd still like your suggestion on the best way to measure alternator output john

thanks again for all your help

[This message has been edited by Professor_SS (edited 12-18-2001).]
 

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Prof
When ProForm does get back to you they will probably tell you that yours can be run as a 1 wire or 3 wire. One disadvantage I see is not having the idiot light circuit in these. I have an idiot light car and like that little light.

You bought a new harness, the internal regulator conversion harness, and you want to hook it up like his. Well OK.

I don't always remember who has what car. His is a 72. On the 72, the horn relay is up on the firewall. If yours is the same all you would need to do is get a positive battery cable with a large gage pigtail cable on it. The 72 positive cable only has the wire to the solenoid for the basic circuit. You need one more line from the battery to the alternator. No other wires are really needed to run the one wire. After you connect the alternator to the battery, you should have around 14.4 volts on the battery.
I'll still stay with Delco. Had my numbers matching alternator rebuilt for my 64. It wasn't dead but I figured after 28 years it was about time.

*EDIT*
I'm in the middle of doing a cut and paste, (and trying to work) while you get the answers. Got to learn to type faster (or work less). LOL, John



[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 12-18-2001).]
 

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I got one of those 100 amp one wire alternators in my '69 Camino. when you first start the car you just have to blip the throttle past 1300-1600 rpm and it starts charging. Once it starts charging it doesn't stop until the car stops. As for a load at night with the headlights, 50 amp fog lights, power windows, and a 540 Watt stereo blasting, i've never had a problem. My headlights don't even dim when the bass hits. I would recomend it to anyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OLD67 and others, Thanks. I will put the Camaro on the street with the 1 wire 100A alternator and see how it goes. After the first time out will post the results. Thanks again. Street mufflers and 4:56 gears go in on the 7th of Jan. Can't wait to see how the 4:56 gears will do at the strip as compared to the 5:14 gears but that's another story. I feel sorry for the Ford guys but that was their choice.

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Tom (Wildman704)
72 Chevelle SS454
67 Camaro Super Street
runs 10.3's @ 130 mph
01 Vette
98 Ram V10 (tow truck)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ken, Sent you an e-mail @ [email protected] Looking forward to crusin @ Hagerstown in the Spring.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ken's Email:
Hey Wildman:

I noted that your in Hagerstown, MD. I am in
Frederick. Hit me up privately at [email protected]
yahoo.com. We can exchange a few ideas on
different vendors, mechanics, cruises, and so
forth. Thanks,

Ken McDonough
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



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Tom (Wildman704)
72 Chevelle SS454
67 Camaro Super Street
runs 10.3's @ 130 mph
01 Vette
98 Ram V10 (tow truck)
 

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My Proform 1-wire, 100-Amp alternator only loses voltage at low RPMs when it has a big load on it, such as all three of my Mark VIII cooling fan, headlights, and and heater blower. It will still drop voltage with any combination of two of the above, but only after an extended idle period (bad traffic, stuck traffic light, etc.) It handles any smaller load with no problem while sitting in traffic.

The literature that came with the alternator told how to hook it up with an "idiot light", but didn't specify that this would solve the low rpm blues.

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Chad Landry
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I've got a Proform like CJ. I needed it due to the added electric fuel pump, stereo, electric windows, etc. Don't have any problems at all on the street. Once it's "excited" it stays between 13.7 and 14.2 for output.

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Dale McIntosh
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