[Krister]

What is a good oil recipe for a 396 that burns a small amount of oil? Usually noticed when engine is revved hard or get on it. Although an engine rebuild is a few years away, I currently do 1 quart Marvel Mystery Oil (keeps lifters working nicely and engine clean), 16 oz on “No Smoke” and rest 30w oil. This seems to work, but looking for suggestions that might be better. Car is used only in Northern IL summers.

 

[LeoP]

Today's oil is better than from that era, you probably don't need the Marvel or the other additives either. just a good 30 wt oil should be fine.

 

[JJ'65]

Ask 10 different people and you'll get 10 different answers. If you want to burn less oil 20-50 will be fine. I'd use any 15-40 fleet oil (I use WallyWorld Supertech in my 230,000 mile Plymouth). Want cheap? wait for a sale like here on the NW coast, Schucks had Chevron Supreme for $1.49 a qt with $1.00 rebate...probably 60 cents or so after tax and postage. Last monthe it was Shell for same deal, limit one case of 12. And 30 weight ought to be fine. Back in 60's in my '65 327, I used 30 wt summers and 20 wt winters in Fresno. Mystery Oil and the others are snake oil; use 'em if it makes you feel good, but there's no need...

My $0.02

 

[SWHEATON]

Since its using some oil and with be rblt in near future an likely has a flat tappet caqm i would run chevron delo 15w-40 (good down to 10deg F) or valvoline VR1 20w-50(down to 35-40 deg f) for 2 reasons.

1st is they are a heavier grade then the single grade 30wt your running so you motor may use a little less oil and the 2nd more important reason is because they both have the zddp that helps protect flat tappet cam from going bad which many oils mfg today dont have in it.

But if your bent on runing the 30wt anyway then run shell rotella 30wt because i had it tested and it has a good zddp lvl for flat tappet cam protection.

Scott

 

[rcrchsr16]

I'd go 20W50 and call it a day. Want to have no smoke? Add new valve seals, perhaps half umbrellas, and that should take any valve train related smoking away.

 

[copoman69]

for older engines 85 and down you need the c4 additive most engine oils have deleted this additive from the recipe , i use rotella, my spelling may be off, but not my wisdom

 

[JJ'65]

for older engines 85 and down you need the c4 additive most engine oils have deleted this additive from the recipe , i use rotella, my spelling may be off, but not my wisdom

API classification SM motor oil for gasoline-fueled automotive negines is backward compatible; that is, it meets the specs for previous API classifications e.g. SL, SJ, etc.etc. So the SM oil meets the SJ spec for anti-wear properties. The oil companies had to add the extra SL, SM, etc labeling to their packaging to try to counter the current urban legend about not enough ZDDP is a death sentence to your non-roller tappet/lifter engine...

My $0.02

 

[animal69]

I use 10w-40 and a can of Restore every other oil change.

 

[copoman69]

the c4 additive keeps the oil on your cam, and prevents undo cam wear, i know most oil brands no longer have this additive, this is what i believe to be sound advice, but hey i dont sell oil , i just use it

 

[SWHEATON]

FYI,they ran the oil tests for the newer SM oils on dyno motors like older v6's & 350sbc all with low perf stock type flat tappet cams with very light spring rates and things were of course just fine.

It's the mild to hot aftermarkt flat tappet performance cams with much higher valve spring pressures/rates that can potentially get into trouble without the proper ZDDP lvl that the SM oils dont have which are supposedly backwords compatable but not in the case of aftermarket perf cam's with high spring rates.

Scott

 

[mc71454]

Scott,

To summarize all these threads and posts

My plan is to use the remaining Delo400 I have (not the LE type) in my roller cammed Monte and use Valvoline VR-1 in my new Chevelle motor with a hyd flat tappet cam. Once the Delo runs out, I will just use the VR-1 in both motors (20W-50)

How does that sound ?

Thanks

 

[Keith Tedford]

In our old cars, I just use a good name brand oil with half a bottle of EOS. Haven't had any problems yet. These newer cams with their quicker opening valves and high valve spring pressure to control things, are the ones to be worried about. I'll gladly give up a little power for reliability.

 

[JJ'65]

In our old cars, I just use a good name brand oil with half a bottle of EOS. Haven't had any problems yet. These newer cams with their quicker opening valves and high valve spring pressure to control things, are the ones to be worried about. I'll gladly give up a little power for reliability.

Hmmm,

"It's the mild to hot aftermarkt flat tappet performance cams with much higher valve spring pressures/rates"

"quicker opening valves and high valve spring pressure"

Sounds like a racer to me; I suppose I'd follow manufacturers instructions/recommendations.

Racing engine? Racing oil!

Sounds like the way to go. My $0.02

 

[SWHEATON]

Tom,i know you already got this but i am posting it here too for other watching this thread to see.

Once again,1200ppm-1400ppm ZDDP/ Zn & P is where we need to be for minimum protection when running an aftermarket high perf flat tappet hyd or solid perf cam with elevated spring rates which is what many of us are running in our SBC/BBC motors. If your running a wild flat tappet cam cam with very high spring rates you should run closer to or above the 1400ppm end of the scale for Zinc IMHO.

Not all race oils tested are what they are thought to be when it comes to zddp as you will see below,but a couple were.

So with that in mind here is some oil test data from oils i had farily recently tested to give you an idea where a few random oils stand.

Make up your own mind from there,you can choose to believe it or not,thats up to you.

NOTE: Another alternative is running zddplus or cam shield(see their websites to buy it or from ebay & eastwood auto resto catalog or website) or gm eos (from gm parts direct online which is the cheapest,a gm dealer or jeg's under cam prelube) or crane's superlube engine breakin concentrate along with any over the counter SM rated pass car motor oil to boost zddp lvl's for proper flat tappet cam protection.

JJ65,it's not "URBAN LEGEND" that the zddp lvl's @ or lower then 800ppm in todays SM pass car oils can affect hi perf flat tappet cam lonjevity with higher then stock spring rates,its a fact,you can choose to believe it or not. I have been all over this subject for the past 1.5-2 yrs and its a real issue for sure. But the ZDDP is not the end all to making a flat tappet cam live but its definately an important piece of the puzzle,thats for sure. There are many other things that will also shorten a flat tappet cam's life but i wont get into all that here as its already been beaten to death here in t/chevelle.

Scott
==================================================

(KEY=Zn-ppm/P-ppm/Ca-ppm)

VALVOLINE NSL RACE(not VR1) -20W-50 - 1250/1000/890 (ALL 4 VALVOLINE OILS LISTED HERE ARE CONVENTIONAL)

" " NSL RACE -10W-30 - 1000/750/880

" " VR1 RACE -20W-50 - 1040/840/1837

" " VR1 RACE -10W-40 - 1160/912/1650

BRAD PENN RACE - 20W-50 - 770/600/1112 (SYN BLEND)

PENNZOIL GT 25W-50 RACING OIL - 1676/1483/1901 (CONVEN OIL)

CASTROL SYNTEC TRUCK & 4X4 15W-40 - 1240/990/1936 (SYN BELND)

CHEVRON DELO LE CJ 15W-40 - 1360/1115/3070 (CONVEN OIL)

SHELL ROTEALLA 30WT SINGLE GRADE -1215/1050/2350 (CONVEN OIL)

LUBRIPLATE GPO H/D 15W-40 - 1165/920/2550 (CONVEN OIL)

ROYAL PURPLE 5W30 XPR Racing Oil - 1421/1339/3039 (FULL SYN/TESTED BY FELLOW T/C'R)