Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Okay I missed around with the timing, N 800-900 D 650-700 sounds good, idles good, drives good...do y’all think I’m okay with that??? And my oil PSI is reading about 10 pre 1000.
Okay I missed around with the timing, N 800-900 D 650-700 sounds good, idles good, drives good...do y’all think I’m okay with that??? And my oil PSI is reading about 10 pre 1000.
327/300 HP TH350 stock with a small cam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
327/300 HP TH350 stock with a small cam
Probably fine... back in '89 I had an '76 Camaro with stock sbc 350 / th350... it was about 7psi at idle, and 40 at cruise, and that motor out-lived the rest of the car...

I'm not an engine expert, so the other guys here are probably best to trust on that.
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Probably fine... back in '89 I had an '76 Camaro with stock sbc 350 / th350... it was about 7psi at idle, and 40 at cruise, and that motor out-lived the rest of the car...

I'm not an engine expert, so the other guys here are probably best to trust on that.
Thanks, hopefully some experts will chime in, because I’m not 😀
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
565 Posts
On my cars and trucks, not one is more than 150RPM difference in P to D. Even on the stout 406 and 454. I think the jerking you were getting was the idle on the engine being too high in Park and then the sudden low RPM drop to a load. Plus, not knowing how your timing (Mechanical ADV in the Dist.) is set up, I would guess that as you were idling in P higher in the RPM and your timing might have started to advance more than it should.

Yes Sir I think your RPMs are now in a better range. You need to ensure the timing is right by all the areas I mentioned above with regards to Carb and the rest of the timing curve. Probably shut off better as well. Getting up there in RPMs at idle while hot, pending timing would have dieseled during shutdown.

How does it feel now going from P to D? Clunky or smoother? Driving has the same acceleration and cruise?

Going back to your original issue of Oil Pressure, I think your better served setting the RPM up at 700-800 in D with about 1000-1100 in P and have plenty of pressure.

Anyone's thoughts?

Mike
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
On my cars and trucks, not one is more than 150RPM difference in P to D. Even on the stout 406 and 454. I think the jerking you were getting was the idle on the engine being too high in Park and then the sudden low RPM drop to a load. Plus, not knowing how your timing (Mechanical ADV in the Dist.) is set up, I would guess that as you were idling in P higher in the RPM and your timing might have started to advance more than it should.

Yes Sir I think your RPMs are now in a better range. You need to ensure the timing is right by all the areas I mentioned above with regards to Carb and the rest of the timing curve. Probably shut off better as well. Getting up there in RPMs at idle while hot, pending timing would have dieseled during shutdown.

How does it feel now going from P to D? Clunky or smoother? Driving has the same acceleration and cruise?

Going back to your original issue of Oil Pressure, I think your better served setting the RPM up at 700-800 in D with about 1000-1100 in P and have plenty of pressure.

Anyone's thoughts?

Mike
Thanks for all your input, I’m no expert. My father in law and myself we built the car and he passed away a couple of years ago, he was the expert. Yes the engine goes into gear smoother and you are correct the high RPM in P going to a low RPM D was the issue with the jerking. The acceleration and cruse are fine she runs good. I put a new distributor in a few months back and I set the timing with a timing light then I adjusted the distributor by sound. I have a edelbrok carb and followed the directions to turn the screws all the way in and back off as directed again by sound, idle, and RPM. Again I’m no expert, I may need to take it to a garage and get the timing and carb set professionally, but this is the way we always did it. Southern old school shade tree
Mechanic style😎
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
565 Posts
Great history with the car and glad its getting better. I don't think I would take it to a shop just yet as you are working it good now and learning. The things you are wanting them to do are pretty straight forward and those that did chime in above, I have found have tons of experience and knowledge. Always willing to help. Do the search on the site and ask questions. You'll be better off doing it with their help.

Mike
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Great history with the car and glad its getting better. I don't think I would take it to a shop just yet as you are working it good now and learning. The things you are wanting them to do are pretty straight forward and those that did chime in above, I have found have tons of experience and knowledge. Always willing to help. Do the search on the site and ask questions. You'll be better off doing it with their help.

Mike
Thanks for all your help.

Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
FWIT - I just bought a 69 with a '72 402, small cam, headers, holley carb and 390 heads. I know nothing about the history of the motor, but it seems to be pretty worn. The car has been sitting up the past 4 years.

The engine was running exactly as you described, including no oil pressure at idle (about 450-500 rpm) and about 40 psi at cruising (3,000 rpm). I changed the fluids, using 10w-30 oil, and installed new plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, plus new fuel filter. I then brought it to the local performance shop and they spent right at an hour setting the timing and adjusting the carb. It cost $100. They also recommended Valvoline 20w-50 oil with the zinc additive. I changed to this oil and pressure is now 10 psi at idle and 50 psi at cruising. Idle is now 650 -750 and it runs great. It was well worth the $100.

I'm driving the car daily to work (about 15 miles one way) and just enjoying it. I'm fixing all the little stuff and replacing the worn stuff and plan on having it ready for a zz502 and 4l80e put in around October.

So, with all this said, have a professional tune it, go with the 20w-50 oil and enjoy it! I apologize for the long post but I'm pretty excited about my new toy!
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
FWIT - I just bought a 69 with a '72 402, small cam, headers, holley carb and 390 heads. I know nothing about the history of the motor, but it seems to be pretty worn. The car has been sitting up the past 4 years.

The engine was running exactly as you described, including no oil pressure at idle (about 450-500 rpm) and about 40 psi at cruising (3,000 rpm). I changed the fluids, using 10w-30 oil, and installed new plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, plus new fuel filter. I then brought it to the local performance shop and they spent right at an hour setting the timing and adjusting the carb. It cost $100. They also recommended Valvoline 20w-50 oil with the zinc additive. I changed to this oil and pressure is now 10 psi at idle and 50 psi at cruising. Idle is now 650 -750 and it runs great. It was well worth the $100.

I'm driving the car daily to work (about 15 miles one way) and just enjoying it. I'm fixing all the little stuff and replacing the worn stuff and plan on having it ready for a zz502 and 4l80e put in around October.

So, with all this said, have a professional tune it, go with the 20w-50 oil and enjoy it! I apologize for the long post but I'm pretty excited about my new toy!
Thanks for sharing your story, very helpful, share photo.

Charlie
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Okay…went to my local speed shop to get them to look at my RPM issue. Steve the owner of the shop and the go to guy for all local hot rod engine builds made some adjustments and said with my set up D 600 RPM and N 800 RPM was good to go. He diid tell me my fuel pressure was low and most likely needed a new pump. I grabbed one on the way home and installed it, 4-6 Lb now and I was at 1-2 lb so good👍🏻 Now here comes my next question…I put the old pump on my bench and when I was cleaning up there was oil everywhere where it leaked out the pump…is there supposed to be oil in the fuel pump??? Maybe that’s why it was bad, the diaphragm was allowing oil to bypass into the pump???
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Okay…went to my local speed shop to get them to look at my RPM issue. Steve the owner of the shop and the go to guy for all local hot rod engine builds made some adjustments and said with my set up D 600 RPM and N 800 RPM was good to go. He diid tell me my fuel pressure was low and most likely needed a new pump. I grabbed one on the way home and installed it, 4-6 Lb now and I was at 1-2 lb so good👍🏻 Now here comes my next question…I put the old pump on my bench and when I was cleaning up there was oil everywhere where it leaked out the pump…is there supposed to be oil in the fuel pump??? Maybe that’s why it was bad, the diaphragm was allowing oil to bypass into the pump???
Also my old pump didn’t have a spring under the arm the new one did…would there be a difference in spring vs no spring???
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
On my cars and trucks, not one is more than 150RPM difference in P to D. Even on the stout 406 and 454. I think the jerking you were getting was the idle on the engine being too high in Park and then the sudden low RPM drop to a load. Plus, not knowing how your timing (Mechanical ADV in the Dist.) is set up, I would guess that as you were idling in P higher in the RPM and your timing might have started to advance more than it should.

Yes Sir I think your RPMs are now in a better range. You need to ensure the timing is right by all the areas I mentioned above with regards to Carb and the rest of the timing curve. Probably shut off better as well. Getting up there in RPMs at idle while hot, pending timing would have dieseled during shutdown.

How does it feel now going from P to D? Clunky or smoother? Driving has the same acceleration and cruise?

Going back to your original issue of Oil Pressure, I think your better served setting the RPM up at 700-800 in D with about 1000-1100 in P and have plenty of pressure.

Anyone's thoughts?

Mike
See below?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
778 Posts
It’s around 10lb per 1000 RPM when driving but will drop below 5lb and lower at a stop sometime, not all the time. I installed a new gauge with copper line but no change. The engine seems to run fine just don’t like looking down and seeing little or no pressure.

Is it normal for the engine to shift up on pass side when shifting from park to reverse, and the drive train to jerk in gear at 750 RPM idle?
Pop the hood and hold your (left) foot on the brake and give a little gas while in gear. Watch the motor to see if it lifts....if it does, change your motor mounts.
 

·
Registered
67 Chevelle Malibu (Convertible)
Joined
·
192 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
You might want to kick the idle up some. 700-750 rpm is about normal. On my built engines, I bump it to about 900 rpm.

Little more rpm at idle will bump your oil pressure.
See below?
Pop the hood and hold your (left) foot on the brake and give a little gas while in gear. Watch the motor to see if it lifts....if it does, change your motor mounts.
I already checked it out, no broken mounts…Thanks
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top