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CAN I REMOVE THE OIL PAN ON A 68 SS396 WITHOUT REMOVING THE ENGINE? IT IS A 4 SPEED CAR. ACCRDING TO THE SERVICE MANUAL THE ENGINE NEEDS TO BE REMOVED BUT I SEAM TO BELIEVE I CAN RAISE THE BLOCK UP OFF THE MOUNTS AND GET I OUT. HELP.
THANKS,
MIKE

MIKE
 

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Hi Mike, Welcome to the best site on the NET. You will probably be time and trouble ahead if you go ahead and pull the engine. It is a big pain in the @$$ to work on the engine with it still in the car. By the way, it is considered shouting if you type in all caps, but you probably didn't know. I'm sure you'll get plenty of others tell you the same thing.
About pulling the engine that is!
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Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
Those who do the world's real work don't usually wear ties.




[This message has been edited by chev64 (edited 11-30-99).]
 

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The highest you can jack up the engine without pulling it out is only about 4-5". Not enough clearance to get the pan off and actually do a good job of putting it back on. It is worth the time and effort to pull the motor out of the car. The way the crossmembers are on those its a major pain to do any work to the pan, even if you get it up to give you enough room- you'll have to shuffle the motor forward and back so you can get to all of the pan bolts.

Laying on your back for that long is not fun..unless..well, nevermind.

Wes
 

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The highest you can jack up the engine without pulling it out is only about 4-5". Not enough clearance to get the pan off and actually do a good job of putting it back on. It is worth the time and effort to pull the motor out of the car. The way the crossmembers are on those its a major pain to do any work to the pan, even if you get it up to give you enough room- you'll have to shuffle the motor forward and back so you can get to all of the pan bolts.

Laying on your back for that long is not fun..unless..well, nevermind.

Wes
 

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1970 Chevelle Convertible & 1965 Chevelle SS Convertible
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Mike,

I have done it on a 71 with a 4 speed and a big block. Same set up as your 68. I Wanted to sell my car at the time but no one would buy it with the Dyers Super Charger on. I made a deal with some guy at to put up some money up front and I would put the engine back to normal. Well I pulled the heads, lifted the motor, pulled the deep sump pan, changed the 7:1 pistons back to the 11:1 (the car had a 1970 L78 motor) and put it all back toghether. With a little patience and time it can be done. If you can deal with working on the floor it wasn't so bad. In fact currently I have the top part of my motor dissasambled and I am planning on pulling the pan and changing the rear seal. So I will be doing it again without pulling the motor.



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Here's my two cents- I've done it both ways, and no longer even attempt to pull the pan with the engine in the car. I would maybe make an exception to my little personal rule to change a rear main seal on a car I wanted to sell, but that's about it. In my opinion, it may take a little longer to pull the engine, but it can be far less frustrating. Why do you need to pull the pan??? The more work you want to do down there, the better off you are to pull the whole engine. If you are doing it to replace the pan for some reason, I can tell you I've had bad luck with aftermarket "stock looking" pans going back on after the original one comes off. The transition area going down into the sump is usually a gentler radius on aftermarket versions, and that's the area I've found to get in the way.

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Steve

72 Chevelle SS402/4sp
 
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