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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well my battery wouldnt turn the beast over so i went out and bought a new one today, it starts up fine again, and the starter/ alt. were replaced 2 weeks ago, my guage says im getting around 11.9 - 12 volts, shouldnt i be looking at close to 14? Or screw it and drive.....
?????
 

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i have a stock 67 charging system it puts out 14 volts. replace the voltage reg. if its an external or take the alt. back. if you drive at night you'll drain the battery with the lights on and a hi energy ignition system won't work right.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Charging system? Yeah the alt. Battery and starter are all new, the only thing I thought it might be was a bad ground somewhere but its around low 11 volts when driving day time, and at night it goes down to 10 with the lights on. Ive never toyed with a regulator at all... my GEN light is back on though.... Whats the deal on a regulator? What should I do! I hope I make it home tonight..... :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok I remember now where that sucker mounts (voltage regulator) Does kragen test those suckers out? Ive always tested my other common stuff, batt, atl, starters. Etc.... How do i knoow this sucker isnt working properly?
 

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There's a few methods for checking out the system. This thread has a couple. Try Peter's on the last page. Doesn't sound like a ground problem offhand.
Don't assume that since things are new that the are working. Take the measurements. If you need a new regulator Autozone sells the Wells Part Number VR715 solid state regulator for around $11.00. Suggest using that over the imported aftermarket mechanical units.
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=22;t=002353;p=4
 

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Also - check to see that your regulator is sensing voltage at the most remote point in your system. If you have the alternator / regulator sensing voltage at the battery, or somewhere close to the alternator output you'll never produce high enough voltage to power your cars electrical system and charge the battery at the same time.

When I re-wired my car, I routed the sensing wire for the internal regulator on my alternator directly from the fuse block. That way, I can make sure that I always have the correct voltage to power everything when the alternator is actually spinning. The closer you get to the alternator, the higher voltage you are going to have on the sensing wire - thus, the less the alternator thinks it has to put out. I'd definitely take readings on the sensing wire and see what type of voltage it's reading vs. the alternator output.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey thanks for all the tips so far it's been more than useful! I snagged the wells regulator from Autozone, and mounted it. Yeah true, about assuming something is new it will be working properly. The alternator power wire had a 2 " wire twist on the tip right before the connection it was burned off and not even connected anymore, hokey wiring! im still not getting enough volts after putting on the new reg. and battery, so im guessing the alternator got shot to hell in all this maddness, its under warranty... we'll soon find out! If not ill be bugging you dudes for more
haha...... thanks....
 

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Make sure the regulator case is grounded. Since I can't see yours:
Early Chevelles were mounted on rubber wellnuts and had a ground strap to the core support. Later ones were screwed down to the core support.
You should have a ground wire from battery (-) to the right inside fender.
Try the tests I posted. It's cheaper than changing parts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I forgot. With the alt. Yellow and green wires, is yellow on top and green bottom? Thats the way It was hooked before. With the regulator on mine, it's a 71' It's got a little ground wire going to the left (looking at it from the top) its hooked to the frame and a little selenoid/ capacitor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I put on my new regulator and still rolling under 11.5-9.5 volts. Im suprised it even starts. Perhaps the regulator I bought is crap? I hear there real touchy, maybe Ill swap it for another one. If this helps, since I put in the new battery right away I got 12 volts then it went down to 10-11. The last thing I added was the regulator. I pulled the alternator which is new, and checked it just in case and it checked out fine.... so im stumped...... and Im not sure where the green and yellow go on the alternator, it starts either way, which is probably not good.....
 

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Just a suggestion again. Read the link I posted above. Take some measurements at the points I or Peter pointed out. If you don't it's real hard for anyone to help. After you do post back the results.
If I thought the Wells regulator was crap I won't have mentioned it. I have one on my 64.
 

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Im just curious, are you checking the voltage output with an actual hand held volt meter or just going by what your gauge says? Maybe your gauge is bad?

Hope this helps!
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I dont have an actual volt meter right now I lent it out last week to a buddy. Im going by my Volt guage which is also new, autometer, it's not one of the cheapies either im pretty confident in its functioning. Ive been reading posts about built in regulated alternators which eliminates the volt regulator, seems like a good plan to me with a couple snips of wire and plus id have alot more amps, which is good for adding a high powered sterio, which is soon up. I read alot of built in reg. alternators, CS130 i think it was? I cant find that in a part search for kragen or autozone, it was under tech reference. Let me know if anyone did that little convert? Thats going to be my weekend :D
 

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I upgraded to a 10SI since it was cheap and easy. I just undid the harnes between the regulator and alternator and removed the wires that went between the 2 and cut the red wire from the regulator connector to the horn relay at the horn relay. Then, I cut the brown wire from the regulator connector and put it to the new alternator #1 terminal and taped the harness back up. I just connected the #2 terminal to the back of the alternator at the Bat post. A better way would be to run another wire from the #2 terminal to the horn relay where the red wire from the regulator was. The #2 terminal is the remote sense wire for the alternator. Go to the MAD web site http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml to read more about this.

The reason I didn't bother running the remote sensing wire was that I have a stock system without much for extra loads so it doesn't make much difference. The wire from the alternator to the horn relay is fairly short so there's not much voltage drop there. I'm thinking of a electric fan in the future and I'll have to change the wiring for it and at that time I'll wire the remote voltage sensing wire into the junction block where the fan is connected.

Peter
 

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sounds like the regulator to me - i had the same problem.

with no load - i have seen the voltage gague go to 17+ Vs at 2000+ rpm
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah Ive heard alot of problems with new regulators and stock alternators. Also the stock regulators im slowly finding out how weak they are, especially if I'll be adding alot of high powered sterio and guage's etc etc. Im just going to tear it out and do this cs103 alternator convert. Sounds like a good deal to me, I find it in the tech archives, and found a good deal on a newly refurbished one. If anyone's has any little tips or problems with a similar power convert send it over!
Thanks.... :D
 
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