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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran my first ever 1/4 mile race. I have a 1971 chevelle with a 427BB, 12 bolt non-posi 331 gears, turbo 350 maybe 2000 stall, and 50 series street tires. My 1st run I left it in drive and floored it at the light (reaction time .485) and had a 1/4 time [email protected] miles. I think I let off on the gas right before the finish line, not knowing where it ended. The next run I used my B&M and ratcheted up from 1st burning up the pavement for almost an 1/8 mile before my one wheel stopped spinning, the run not very good. The last run I left all alone like my 1st run but too much wheel spin. My theory is that my car makes way too much torque for non-posi street tires, any suggestions on hooking up would be great. My eaton is in the mail.... All in all it was fun
 

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I think you'll see a big difference with the Eaton. I'd set up the shift points so you can leave it in drive for the most consistent times. If you plan to get halfway serious with this you should run a 3000-3500 converter. Right now it sounds like you're leaving at least 2 seconds on the table. Keep us posted.
 

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congrats Mark!!!:hurray: Eaton+drag radials=more fun....:thumbsup:
Agree with the above quotes, but there is still a lot of fun to be had with a high torque BBC, high gear, non-posi peg-leg rear and 300+ foot right turn burnouts in front of neighbors with a silly grin on your face as they watch with their usual disapproval. Ahhh, the fond memories of younger days and cheap bias ply tires.:D
 

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Did you check to see if you have any tooth marks on your neck. Your on the dark side now. Never to be the same......
 

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Sweet - congrats on catching the bug!

I remember when I first got started, figuring out how/when to manually shift was worth a whole 1 sec over letting it do it automatically. I hadn't played with the trans shift points back then, but sometimes it's not easy to modify the trans enough to get it to stay in each gear as long in Drive as it does when you manually shift.
 

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I My 1st run I left it in drive and floored it at the light (reaction time .485) and had a 1/4 time [email protected] miles.
Way to go! You will be amazed at how your times will come down as you keep working at it and make some "small" upgrades.

Remember, you drop the hammer when the last yellow hits, not when the green lights up.

What was your 60 ft time?

Like others have said, drag radials, posi, converter. Probably relocation brackets or no hops eventually. Cheapo 3 way shocks and moroso trick springs in the rear.

All that will get you started. Kind of have to get some traction and consistency before you can really tune the engine at the track.

What are the specs on the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
my 60' time was 2.274 and I did leave on the 3d yellow but with that said the person I was racing had a .074 reaction time so I know there is room for improvement. I know where I can get a set of aftermarket upper control arms and plan on putting them on with my Eaton. If springs are needed now would be the time but can I get away with coilover shocks installed at a later date in the stock position(it was my brothers theory)? As far as the convertor I like its present drivability so I would need a suggestion on a street friendly convertor, my brothers 1970 chevelle in HS had a Vega stall convertor and it acted like a slipping tranny. I also plan on getting a set of Drag radials since it also has a 100 shot that has never been tested and I am scared to even think about testing them with street tires, posi or not. Anyway I am getting my car dynoed tommorrow and I can post the number, its my 3d dyno with 3 different combos. I will keep also post my times as I start racing. Thanks for the input.
BTW I was compared to some burnout in "american graffitti" when I asked someone who seen my second race what it looked like :)
 
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