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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
last year i decided to tear down my 70 SS again and get some parts powder coated etc, tore the whole front end out ,pulled engined ,core support A-arms etc, and alot i had powder coated, put it back together and to my amazement my horn does not work now, thought maybe with powder coating might of had bad ground, but i jumpered out horns to battery and they work, where and how should i start to check this, the horn relay was just replaced 6 months ago and i also know this could be bad , can some direct me of where to check for the most common cause and how too! thanks steel
 

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Should be a small gage all black wire screwed to the horn relay. Jump that relay terminal to ground. See if that closes the relay and toots the horn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
john, I have two wires screwed to horn relay towards engine compartment,the others are all plugged in, one is quite large and is red, the other is black, medium in size and looks like it goes to a fusible link the it turns red!!!! steel
 

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He's talking about the small black wire that's plugged into the relay, not the screwed ones. Leave everything plugged in, take something like a paper clip and poke it into the plug socket that has the small black wire in it. Take a piece of wire & hold one end of it to the paper clip, the other end to a good ground. If the horn honks when you do this, the problem is in the wire from the steering wheel to the relay. Let us know the results of this test, then we'll tell you what to do next.

BL
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks ark and john, yes the horn beeps, hmmmm, i replaced the rag joint on the steering shaft but the bolts are tight, where do i start next, maybe from the fuse box??? thanks steel :confused:
 

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OK, now take a wire and attach one end to the steering shaft where it comes out of the firewall and ground the other end of the wire. See if the horn honks when you push the horn button on the wheel. If it does, then you have lost the ground at the rag joint. Once again, try this & let me know. I'll be around the computer for another hour or so.

BL
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hey ark, wont be able to get to until tomorrow, popped my knee out, have to let swelling go down, i'll check tomorrow hope you'll be here to help, steel P.S. NICE CAR YOU HAVE
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well ark, tryed what you suggested but nothin, hooked the wire to several different places and no horn, where do i go to next
steel
 

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Since the horn and relay work, might try and see if works below the steering wheel horn button. Try removing the horn button. Should be a black wire clipped to it. See if there is honking when you touch the clip to the center steering shaft. If not, jumper it to another clean ground and see if that does it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
nope, i have a comfort grip wheel, took center cap off and little metal rod where spring is in hole touched to center shaft with jumper, NOTHIN, steel :confused:
 

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With a longer jumper touch it someplace else. That is a known good frame ground. Basically doing the same thing as you did on the opposite end of the wire at the horn relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
john, used the same wire as yesterday, hooked one clip to the actual horn button under cap and went directly to block, nothing, when ark68 was telling me to hook steering coloum to ground in what exact place do you hook the wire at the firewall on the steering coloum??? steel
 

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OK den, you probably have an open circuit on the black wire from the relay to the horn button. I don't have a '70 wiring diagram, but I think 68~72 are real close. The small black wire goes from the relay to the bulkhead connector, through that connector to the big connector on the steering column with the turn signal wires and stuff, up the column to the horn button. Do you have a VOM or a powered circuit tester? If you do, test for continuity between the horn contact and the connector on the column. If that's good, then test from that connector to the bulkhead connector. You'll have to drop the fuse box to check that. Then check that you have continuity through the bulkhead connector. Then check from the engine bay side of the bulkhead connector to the connection on the relay. Somewhere in there, you should find where the circuit is broken. The common place would be where the wires go through the bulkhead connector, you might want to check there first. Don't hurt yourself, there will be a lot of bending,twisting & cussin to get to some of this stuff.
I hope this was clear enough, if not, holler back & I'll try again. John, if you have any ideas, please chime in.

BL
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
where the wiring harness plugs under dash at steering coloum, is there anyway to check that to relay first?? i have a fluke volt/ohm meter, is this what your talking about, wonder if when i was taking front end off if maybe i pulled a wire loose at the bulk head connector???? thanks steel, ps, yeah its confusing but i'll try, thanks again, i'll be back at ya
 

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Originally posted by steelworker198:
where the wiring harness plugs under dash at steering coloum, is there anyway to check that to relay first??

Sure, unplug the connector at the relay, poke a paper clip into the connector where the small black wire goes, attach one lead of your Fluke to the paper clip. Then go to the column connector, unplug it, and attach the other lead to the black wire on the side of the connector going to the fuseblock. Use the ohm setting on the meter, & if it's good you'll see continuity (less than 10 ohms); if you see OL, then the break is between those two points. If you show continuity, check from the other side of the column connector to the horn contact, and see if there's a break there. Think of it as going down a water pipe looking for leaks at the connections. :D

BL
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ark, i had a guy rewire my front harness last year, the key minder is a pink/black wire and it is unplugged at the bulk head connector, this dosent make a diff does it? this key minder wire also goes to the horn relay, steel
 
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