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I have read elsewhere on this page that No Hop bars can hit the bedfloor on ElCaminos. Does anyone know how much the suspension would have to be limited on a '69 Elky to prevent this from happening?
 

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I am the one who posted about the No-Hops hitting the bed. I bought mine from H-O Racing, along with their springs, sway bars, bushings and Disc brake conversion kit. (now sold by Malibu Performance, I guess) The folks who sell the various brands of No-Hop style traction aids know about this little problem, but nobody says anything about it. (which I'm trying to change!)

The H-O springs lower the rear about one inch, according to the spec sheet. I've now got dents about one inch high in the bed of my '68, and then I built spring spacers to lift the back one inch, so it is now-theoretically-back to standard ride height. I've driven the truck very little since then, as both the engine and I developed some problems, but the inch of "self clearancing" along with a return to stock ride height appears to have solved the problem. I'll know more when the replacement engine goes in and traction returns to the streets of North Dakota.

The clearance problem happens on rough streets, or with a load in the bed. This should not be a problem at all if you're at the strip, as the axle moves away from the bed on hard launches, and hopefully, your favorite dragstrip dosn't have potholes.
 

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SS

I also have two rather large dents in the bed of my 68 el camino caused by no-hop bars purchased from Malibu Performance.

Part of the problem in my case was that I converted from a 10 bolt to a 12 bolt rear end and didn't transfer the spacer on the overload rubber bumper pads of my 10 bolt rear end. The spacer bolts on to the welded bumper pad and moves the rubber bumper point of attachment up about 3/4 inch. That is almost enough to cause the overload bumpers to hit the frame before the no-hop bars hit the bottom of the bed.

By also adding about 1/2 inch shim to the frame where the bumper hits I think I could have eliminated the problem. But I decided I didn't want the overload bumpers hitting the frame frequently either (a jolting experience even rubber to metal). So instead I replaced my weak 30 year old rear springs with variable rate springs I bought a long time ago when I was pulling a trailer with this car. The ride is a little stiffer now and the rear sits up a little higher but I never bottom out on the no_hops any more.

Don't know if the increased height is in part defeating the purpose of the no-hops by changing the instant center etc.? Guess the only way I could find that out for sure is to take a trip down the drag strip first with the old springs then with the new springs and see if the e.t. differs significantly.

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Chuck in Phx
 

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AI know someone that has a 69 SS396 and it has no-hops on it and they hit the floor of it only the dents show up in the trunk.These things did not seem to work and the car gets better traction with them off,and no bang noise when you get on it.It sucks when parts don't work like they are supposed to this car has some of the old H.O racing stuff on it and the no hop bars look like they were made by Hackers and cut out with a cutting torch. Pure Junk I would hope the rest of H.O racings stuff is of better quality.

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CRUISER
 

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'69 Elky is designed with a spacers which bolts to the jounce bumper pads (PN 3901737-38) and limit suspension travel. These are missing on many Elkys. Check with your local axle restorer, mine had a set that I bought for $15
 
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