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Discussion Starter #1
OK, here's the scoop: 1969 El Camino ss396. I was testing the horns, and posted a question on testing the horn relay. Got the horns working, but now no headlights. Nothing at all, dash, parking, or headlights. One thing that was suggested in my horn troubleshooting was to remove the red wire on the relay and touch the post with the black wire. Could this have caused the fusible link to blow? There is a fusible link that is near the relay, how can I test it? One other point, the interior light does work, but I haven't tried to turn the headlight switch to power it on, as I just thought of that while writing this. Thank you in advance, as you always steer me straight.
 

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If you have interior lights chances are it's not a 12 volt problem under the hood. There is only one wire, a red one that provides 12 volts to everything inside the car. Does the radio work? Cigarette lighter? If so, problem is under the dash or somehow you lost some grounds.
First check the fuses. The orange wire, on the ignition switch, is fused. This wire powers the running lights and the dash lights. The dash lights are also fused through the small fuse in the bottom center of the panel.
Check a little further on what works and what don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok, I just installed a new stereo in the car. I used the batt and ignition posts on the fuse block to power it. The stereo works fine. Wipers too. I'll check the rest of the things you mentioned. I think the fuse is good, but I'll check again. Is one of the smaller wires on the bottom side of the relay for the headlights only, or does the fact that the interior light works blow that theory? Thanks again.
 

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Well you have power to the fuse block but no headlights or dash lights. Strange they are on 2 different circuits and don't have much to do with each other. Besides checking the fuses as a starting point, one thing: Do you have a good connection between the battery negative post and ground? There should be a small wire tied to the inside fender. Assuming you do. I guess after checking the fuses it would be time to take some measurements on the headlight switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll try it when I get home...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for the long delay... I checked all fuses, and they all look good. Interior light works now. I had adjusted the door jamb switches because they were not contacting the door and shutting off the light. No headlights, or dash lights. Also the headlight switch will not turn on interior light. There is a fusible link up near the horn relay, where I was also playing around, is that for the headlights alone, or is that for the entire fuse block? Also, if you thingk it is the headlight switch, how an I test it to be sure? Thanks ahead of time...
 

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Not sure what you did to knock them out. There is no fusible link under the hood for the headlights. Maybe it's time to look at the switch. Headlight wires on the switch.

Red is the input 12 volts for the headlights.
Pull the switch on puts power on the blue wire. Blue is the output wire from the switch to the headlights.
Orange is a fused power input 12 volts for the dashlights and taillights.
Pull the switch on and it powers green and brown.
Green goes to dash lights
Brown goes to taillights.
BTW
You did check the little fuse on the bottom center of the fuseblock? Also I think I asked if you have a ground wire from battery (-) to the right inside fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry for the long delay, girlfriends take up so much time...
Ok, got a new headlight switch, still no headlights or dash lights. One thing I did notice is that the brown wire looks melted. I think it was this way from a while back. Any other suggestions? I keep thinking that it has to be something related to the horn relay, since that is the only electrical thing that has been touched, other than removing the steering wheel to get to the horn contacts. Steering wheel is still off, BTW. Does the switch need to be mounted to the dash for grounding? I tested it hanging from the connector to be sure it was working... Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A little more info. With my very limited electrical expertise, I tested some things. First, the red power wire has 12.44 volts coming into the switch. With the switch opened, the blue wire (headlight output) has 12.44 volts going out. This seems to tell me that the switch is fine. The brown wire, however, has no reading whether the switch is on or not, parking lights or full lights. Hope this helps.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by raiderjefe:
A little more info. With my very limited electrical expertise, I tested some things. First, the red power wire has 12.44 volts coming into the switch. With the switch opened, the blue wire (headlight output) has 12.44 volts going out. This seems to tell me that the switch is fine. The brown wire, however, has no reading whether the switch is on or not, parking lights or full lights. Hope this helps.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You're getting closer on the headlights, switch is fine. On the brown wire, it gets its power from the orange wire. Do you see about 12 volts on the orange wire?
The blue wire goes down to the high beam switch on the floor. It come out of the switch as:
tan (low beams)
Green (high beams)
depending on which way the switch is pushed.
I'd take out the left outer light and see if there is power on either the tan or the green to a good ground. The headlight switch needs to be on and you need to press the high beam switch to check for voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No, there was not near 12 volts on the orange wire with the switch in any position. Does this go to the fuse block?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Please disregard the last reply. I just went out and tested the orange wire. No reading when switch is in park or lights position. Get a reading close to 8.5 when switch is off. Just tried hitting the hi/lo beam switch on the floor. Very bright lights. All four light up, as well as the hi-beam indicator on the dash, but no marker or taillights. Still nothing at all on lo beam.
 

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On the headlights:
Still need to remove the left outer one and see if there is power (12 volts) on the tan wire. This is the low beam wire.
On the tail lights:
Need 12 volts on the orange wire when the switch is off. Maybe check the cigarette lighter fuse.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by raiderjefe:
Please disregard the last reply. I just went out and tested the orange wire. No reading when switch is in park or lights position. Get a reading close to 8.5 when switch is off. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'll try and provide a better answer to what I am seeing so others may correct me if I'm wrong. The 0 volts when the switch is on and the 8.5 volts when the switch is off indicates a poor connection somewhere. The connection is poor enough to drop the little current passing through when the switch is on. The most likely cause of this would be a dirty or corroded fuse block clip. The fuse is probably not blown but its connection to the fuse block clip is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm going to check that today, it seems quite possible, as some of the clips look pretty dirty. Any suggestions on what to clean them with? I'm thinking my dremel with a little wire brush. Any chemicals work well here?
 

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Jeff, John has been trying to help me with almost the exact same problem. I picked up on something reading your posts. I had rewired my tach and lost my park lights,I tried 2 new light switches,testing everything possable,I also am no electro genius, but John said to check the small ground wire coming off the battery ground,my batt ground has one of these but was mever connected to anything. So I put a little ground wire on it and magic!! I got lights, THANKS, JOHN!!.. While this ground was not connected, the orange wire in the headlight switch had no power at all, and the small fuse for the dash lights was dead on both sides, and still is until you turn the park lights on, then the fuse lights up O.K. Hope this helps, Its such a relief to get this stuff working, I`m sure it would be easy if a guy new what the hell he was doing ha..
 

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The camino is plenty old enough to have poor connections thru the bulkhead connector also. You might check that out as well. I have seen
cornering lamps on a Cadillac fail because of the bulkhead connector. Cleaned up the connection and the lights worked perfectly. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, no power to the tan wires (there are two going into same connection of the headlight connector) on the left outer light. This is with the hi beam and lo beam settings. Damn, this sucks, just got the Impy's steering wheel and all, and I can't drive it
 

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Discussion Starter #20
By the way, I cleaned the fuse connection with the dremel, they weren't that bad. What is the proper procedure for disconnecting the bulkhead connector? I pulled the 5/16 screws that held it to the firewall, and it came loose, but does the fuseblock portion separate from the other interior part that mounts to the firewall? Or just the interior piece separates from the engine side of the firewall?
 
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