[BEECHFRONT]

I just installed a new cloyes true roller billet set and the cam gear is in towards the block .018 to .020 more then the crank gear.

I went ahead and installed the chain and cam button and timing cover anyway to see were it was exactly with all the shims same place as as they were when i removed it

after rotating full 320 I checked the endplay only in one direction towards the timing cover and get around .09

when I check both ways I get approx .028 from one end to the other end obviously this is from both gears being out approx .020 from each other.


what do I need to do????

 

[BEECHFRONT]

also this is a hydraulic roller cam

and a few weeks back I lost some gears on my distributor and this is were im at now after tearing it down to find the missing dizzy gears and problem

 

[Tom Mobley]

is this a roller cam?

BB or SB? If BB, is the front of the block worn by a previous timing gear?

bottom gear all the way on? I had one hang up on a burr on the keyway, wasn't all the way back.

 

[Tom Mobley]

oops, beat me to it.

can you lay a straightedge across the front of the block, see if the thrust surface is worn?

 

[BEECHFRONT]

Tom, it is a BB roller and the front of the block does not appear to be worn,

bottom gear is on and bottomed out I heated it and it slipped on easy .

 

[BEECHFRONT]

can you lay a straightedge across the front of the block, see if the thrust surface is worn?

not sure if I have one small enough that will fit in between the 2 pc timing cover and check

 

[Tom Mobley]

you already have the timing cover on it? how did you measure the .020 offset with the cover on there? need the cover and gear off to check the thrust surface right. It should be flush to the timing cover mounting surface.

it usually takes some screwing around to get the button right. I've gone to the Cloyes cover with adjustable stop although I hate installing seals in the cover. seems like the seal hole is about .005 too small, a PITA to get the seal in .

 

[BEECHFRONT]

Tom I have a comp 2 pc timing cover, no need to take off the part that mounts to block to check or change timing gears just need to take off front cover


thrust surface looks fine not recessed or torn up at all, dont want to take off the rest of cover if I dont have to

 

[BEECHFRONT]

Tom , the problem is after I put the timing chain on it pulls the cam gear .020 out towards the cover because the gears are not flush with each other


will this matter does the cam get pulled in towards block while running with a hr?

or do i need to shim out the cam gear?

or machine the rear of crank gear??

 

[forcd ind]

some of the cam gears had a bronze wear washer behind them, and the cam gear was
milled in the back that thickness-could it be missing?
but i thought the washer was thicker than .020

 

[BEECHFRONT]

some of the cam gears had a bronze wear washer behind them, and the cam gear was
milled in the back that thickness-could it be missing?
but i thought the washer was thicker than .020

Forcd, my set comes with the machined gear and torrington bearing

 

[Tom Mobley]

blow it off, the distributor/oil pump load and the button will move it back the 20 to the block. just make sure the button doesn't preload the gear against the block.

the thinnest bronze shim wear shim I've seen was .050 and it seemed pretty thin.

 

[BEECHFRONT]

blow it off, the distributor/oil pump load and the button will move it back the 20 to the block. just make sure the button doesn't preload the gear against the block.

Tom , so I should just put it back together and not worry about the .020?