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I don't have any experience with these, but would like to hear as well. I've upgraded the uppers on mine with UMI's arms which made a huge improvement in handling (due to the better caster capability), but I wasn't really aware of bump steer unless it's subtle wandering as the link states.

jim
 

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Watching the video is surprising, I didn't know toe would change that much.
 

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No experience with those arms..... yet.

I'm thinking they would be a major improvement on any "stock" drag race Chevelle though.
 

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In the video they are using a drag car for the example but i would think a street car would benefit too.
 

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bought a bumpsteer kit from them for a 63 chevy. someone put a 605 box on it and the bump steer was so bad it was undriveable but they are not good from the factory either. the global west kit absolutely fixed this car. they make quality stuff
 

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You can also virtually eliminate bump steer by using Howe tall ball joints. Using tall ball joints also increases your spindle height which also greatly improves your overall suspension geometry.
 

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I have about the same set up as you do Rich, SPC adjustable uppers and 1" tall ProForged upper ball joints. I plan to run over 4 degrees of caster as mentioned in the description of the steering arms but hadn't thought about the relocated pivot point of the taller ball joint.

Think I should probably call them and discuss my set up to see if these steering arms are needed.
 
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Rich, I think I misunderstood your post.... doing a little more research it looks like a 1/2" taller lower ball joint will also completely eliminate factory bumpsteer. With the all aluminum LS I'm swapping in the front sits much higher anyway so this would be an easy way to drop the front some.
 

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SC and C can really help you noodle out what you want and need. I'm really happy with the suspension set up I have on the wagon though I did have to put in a bit of overtime getting just the right front springs I needed. At first it looked really cool with the nose in the dirt, but it handled like a pig and the front crossmember was less than 3 inches off the ground! Couldn't even get a floor jack under it. Had no upward suspension travel. Anyway, that was all due to the springs I picked, not the control arms and ball joints. With the right springs, it is a nice set up.
 

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I stumbled across these Global West steering arms.....

Steering knuckle arms that address bump steer on 1964-72 A-bodies...
I just found this thread when looking at the same Global West steering arms as OP. Anyone here ever buy these?

If you're considering buying, I recommend confirming the changes before ordering these to replace stock arms.

From the Global West site:
"...corrects bump steer when performance suspension and alignment is being used with 4 to 6 degrees of positive caster"

It occurs to me that by adding around 5 degrees of positive caster, you will effectively raise the front of any steering arm.. Maybe close to a half inch? Doesn't this largely correct the bump steer issue, even with a stock steering arm?

A reviewer on the product page on Summit Racing basically says these are just stock replacement steering arms with no improvement (he used more colorful language).

On my next build I'm leaning towards the UMI upper/lower arms with tall upper and lower ball joints. I'll probably wait and look into bump steer kits once I have the parts together and setup.
 

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Has anybody used these yet? I am planning on a full UMI setup on my 72 wagon. I am starting with a new to me frame from an Elcamino and will need all new front end parts and am considering these since I will have none from the old frame during the build up.
they are also shorter which will speed up steering but not sure how much.
 

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It says you can't get that kind of caster with stock arms but you can.. Switch the upper control arms side to side with the upper portion of the spindle now facing the back. This will give you around 8 to 9 degrees positive caster. I'll bet doing this with those arms and a set of tall ball joints would make things so much better. I saw this on Smokey Yunicks 66 Chevelle.
This method would be so much better then stacking all kinds of shims on the back bolt making the arms pivot cockeyed, changing camber everytime the arms moves up and down..
 

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I bought these arms the moment they hit the market-and the bores for the tie rod end ball joints weren't bored deep enough, I hardly caught any threads on the ball stud.

GW stepped right up and replaced them with a set bored correctly, I'm sure they're all done correctly now.

My steering & handling? I have these GW steering arms, QA1 lower arms, SPC upper arms, QA1 tall upper & lower ball joints, CPP 'Vette hub spindles and Viking coil-overs. I lined up everything by eye and my car handles phenomenally. I've yet to get a "proper" alignment at a shop.

I'm sure the GW bump stop corrected arms helped. I recommend them.
 
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i for one cannot recommend global west products. i have their b body spindle swap kit onto an a body. when i got this kit they used to say their bushings would last a million miles , or something to that effect. i just fabricated one of the worn out bushings that only rides halfway on the shaft. i had to fabricate the bushing because they would not sell me replacement bushings. im better off this way as the new bushing is better than the original. now to go with that kit are upper a arms. one of the balll joints is worn out and they cant or wont give me a part number so that i can replace the ball joint. the kit also came with impala lower ball joints that do not fit an a body lower a arm. when i called tech they guy told me to just press it in and it will be good. uh, you cant press in a lower ball joint that is 1/8 inch too big. i bought ball joint sockets and made it right. am i ranting, sorry. lastly, last week i was watching a video of theirs and the guy dosent know that one wrench flat on a nut is 1/6 of a turn he says its 1/8. am i being picky, im not sorry. im kinda sorry to have bought the kit. do not buy the kit cause you will have big bump steer issues and your turning radius will be worse than a school bus. and i fixed all that too. only to be stuck with a worn out ball joint that has no part number.
 

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Go with a 0.5" lower ball joint. It will lower the front of the car 0.5" but the difference is dramatic. Before when I went down the highway any bridge abutment would rattle the steering wheel in my hand. It was concerning at how much it would unsettle the car. Now it's just straight as an arrow with no concern to any bumps or elevation changes. This way you can keep all the stock stuff and know what part numbers you're using.
 

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i for one cannot recommend global west products. i have their b body spindle swap kit onto an a body. when i got this kit they used to say their bushings would last a million miles , or something to that effect. i just fabricated one of the worn out bushings that only rides halfway on the shaft. i had to fabricate the bushing because they would not sell me replacement bushings. im better off this way as the new bushing is better than the original. now to go with that kit are upper a arms. one of the balll joints is worn out and they cant or wont give me a part number so that i can replace the ball joint. the kit also came with impala lower ball joints that do not fit an a body lower a arm. when i called tech they guy told me to just press it in and it will be good. uh, you cant press in a lower ball joint that is 1/8 inch too big. i bought ball joint sockets and made it right. am i ranting, sorry. lastly, last week i was watching a video of theirs and the guy dosent know that one wrench flat on a nut is 1/6 of a turn he says its 1/8. am i being picky, im not sorry. im kinda sorry to have bought the kit. do not buy the kit cause you will have big bump steer issues and your turning radius will be worse than a school bus. and i fixed all that too. only to be stuck with a worn out ball joint that has no part number.
Its old news that the B-Body spindle swap was a flop. If you still have that, I would remove it and install one of the new A body control arm suspension kits from UMI or SC&C.. I have the SC&C with .9 and .5 tall ball joints and it made a remarkable difference..
The Lee 14:1 30 pound valve steering box is what really made a world of difference.
The nice thing about the adjustable arms is the ability to fine tune them. I have my suspension tuned so nice now. It goes straight as an arrow and is very confidence inspiring..
 
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