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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently replaced my front springs with the stock height UMI units. The front end now sits really high (both springs are properly seated - I made sure of that). I have about 2 7/8" between the top of the tire and the fender lip on each side. I am going to be replacing the rear springs soon - also with the stock height units.

UMI suggested the new rear springs, along with cutting the front coils. I am not questioning them at all with this post. What I am wanting to know is if anyone has done something similar to their Chevelle. If so, did you cut just a quarter coil or a half coil?? My old springs were about 3/4" shorter than the UMI units. I will post pictures of just after the spring change and then with my air shocks pumped up (the first three pictures are just after installing the springs - the last four are after airing up the shocks.) I have about 200-300 miles on the springs now, so I don't know if they will settle down some or not.

I want to get the nose of the car down. If anyone can guide me in this, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
 

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I have this same issue

UMI Stock height springs.

"You can cut them" was the answer I was given

People say KOOL you did big block front springs like on the day.

I also have the UMI shocks

$800+ investment and it's trial and error. GTFO
 

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Not umi but when I rebuilt the front end on my 68 El Camino and my 66 chevelle my front end went way up in the air. I ordered stock replacement springs. No my El Camino doesn't crush the headers when I go over curbs and have a load. Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not umi but when I rebuilt the front end on my 68 El Camino and my 66 chevelle my front end went way up in the air. I ordered stock replacement springs. No my El Camino doesn't crush the headers when I go over curbs and have a load. Jim
Jim, did your front end ever settle down, or did it stay high??
 

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Just had these very same springs put on my car, they replaced the 46 year old sagging ones, luckily I went with 2" drop spindles as well so the ride height didn't change a bit, just much stiffer which is good since I have an anchor for an engine, still want to go lower but I wouldn't want to cut the springs in my case because of how stiff the ride is already.
 

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I have this same issue
UMI Stock height springs.
"You can cut them" was the answer I was given
People say KOOL you did big block front springs like on the day.
I also have the UMI shocks
$800+ investment and it's trial and error. GTFO
I guess you still do not get it Rob

As was explained in/to you your Thread
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-brakes-suspension-steering/934074-lowering-springs.html?highlight=

My Posts #s 4 / 5 / 8 gave reasons/detailed explanations etc.
plus someone's elses # 9 Post said it in plain English

" replacing worn springs that are sagging with oem replacement springs = increase in ride height.
replacing small block non-ac car springs with big block ac car springs = increase in ride height. "

plus UMI Perf Posts offering help to work it out

The kicker was not replying to the #10 Post of Philip a Admin person
>:)
 

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Brian
if you look in this Thread at Post #4
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/16-brakes-suspension-steering/934074-lowering-springs.html
you will see that I was/had the same type of High Frontend with stock height old SBC springs
27" from Ground to underside of the Fender lip in the middle/center

This was after I had changed the old weak Rearend springs with new Moog # 5385 Rear Springs
26" from Ground to underside Fender lip in the middle/center

What was the measured height from the Ground to the underside of the Fender Lip
Before the Spring change ?
After/now with the new Springs ??

It also looks like you have lower profile Tires, with less sidewall,
and the Wheels look to be larger than 15" Diameter !
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kirk, eventually I plan on getting the UMI lower front control arms, probably the 1 inch drop model. If I were to cut half or 3/4 of a coil, how badly would that affect ride quality now and in the future (with the new control arms)?? My car is my daily driver, so I would prefer it not to be a harsh ride.
 

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Brian I would think that is something you should talk to UMI Perf about as they R&D their parts with cars
all the time or have feedback with other customers etc.

With what I did to my car's frontend by installing the UMI Perf Tubular Front Control Arms
with Viking DA Shocks
and in making it ride more firmer and stable it was a big plus over the old ride & handleing of the car for me

IMHO cut the Springs a little at a time is the way to get the desired height that you are looking for
I do not think/IMHO that cutting off that little of the coil will affect the ride that much
even tho it will stiffen up the coil by making it shorter which will also give better handling
the better the shocks the better the ride IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did upgrade to Bilstein front shocks when I did the springs. I also just bought the parts to make a ball joint separator (using a 5/8" rod coupling and two 5/8" x 1.25" bolts), as I don't want to damage the boots on my brand new Proforged lower ball joints. If cutting 1/2 of a coil off will drop the front end about 1", then that may be what I need to do.
 

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We used to cut stock springs all the time, never again. It ruins them.. Maybe UMI springs are designed to be cut..

I'd try the 2" lowered springs like the guy above..

Usually for every 1/2" of spring change, the car moves 1" due to the control arm ratio..
 

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Cut them Brian...they won't take them back anyway. If not satisfied with the result, then buy the other set. As far as the ball joints go just back off the nuts and whack the control arm with a deadblow hammer...the spring does most of the work and works every time.
 

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You can have the springs reset by a spring shop to your desired height. However, if the springs were wrongly made, UMI should be paying for it.
Cutting coils [ or a section of coil ] risks putting a bend in the spring & it will possibly rub on the chassis opening. Not a good idea.
 

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No way in hell would I tell someone to cut their springs, especially if I worked for the company that sold them. Cutting any springs make them have a much stiffer ride. It sounds like they sent you the wrong springs.


I put BMR 2" lowering springs all the way around. Car handles like a dream now with hardly any body roll in turns. The new springs plus all new bushings front and rear and I'm satisfied.
 

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Brian

Did you talk to UMI Perf about buying the Rear Springs ?
and sending back the Stock Ride Height Front ones ??
and getting 1" or 2" Lowering Front Springs ???

BUT be careful not to Lower the Front to much like I did
went from 27" to 25" from Ground to underside of Fender Lip in the center of Fenderwell
result is when I max turn into a/my Driveway or anything with a little bump up to fast
the Wheel/Tire is pushed up into/on the underside of the FenderLip

In Spring I will be raising/adjusting the Viking Coil Overs by a 1"
so that Ground to underside of Fender Lip = 26"

The Fronts could be 1.5" or 2" Lower max

In opinion the Back look okay or maybe only lower 1" max
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am thinking that I am just going to purchase the Viking front coil over kit - then I can set the front end wherever I want it. I will get the rear springs later.
 

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I am thinking that I am just going to purchase the Viking front coil over kit - then I can set the front end wherever I want it. I will get the rear springs later.
That's what I did on one BBC 66. The other BBC 66 sits too low with correct Moogs.

I also have the SBC springs I removed from a 3rd 66.

Wan to do some horse trading for either the SBC or BBC springs for your UMI's?
 

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I just recently replaced my front springs with the stock height UMI units. The front end now sits really high (both springs are properly seated - I made sure of that). I have about 2 7/8" between the top of the tire and the fender lip on each side. I am going to be replacing the rear springs soon - also with the stock height units.

UMI suggested the new rear springs, along with cutting the front coils. I am not questioning them at all with this post. What I am wanting to know is if anyone has done something similar to their Chevelle. If so, did you cut just a quarter coil or a half coil?? My old springs were about 3/4" shorter than the UMI units. I will post pictures of just after the spring change and then with my air shocks pumped up (the first three pictures are just after installing the springs - the last four are after airing up the shocks.) I have about 200-300 miles on the springs now, so I don't know if they will settle down some or not.

I want to get the nose of the car down. If anyone can guide me in this, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

This is Craig, we talked on the phone when you called. Unless you mentioned you wanted less than 1" of rake and I don't remember that part of the conversation I shouldn't have said anything about cutting springs.

I remember you telling me you think the rear springs could be factory if not that they are very old. I've had many instances that a customer has 10 yr. old springs and they are "sagged" 1' or more. It's very possible the springs you have on the rear are very similar in stance to our 2" lowering springs.

What I did tell you is that if you want a level stance replacing your old rear springs with our factory height springs will make your stance level.

If your looking for a "raked" look the only way to achieve this with having our factory height springs on the front is to install our factory height rear springs and trim some of your front springs.
As a general rule trimming 1/4" coil in the front will lower your car approx. 1/2" and you will not change the spring rate enough to be able to notice it driving the car.

I think there's many guys here on this forum that will attest to trimming a full coil in the front springs and it not being noticeable.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Actually, I never called - only contact was via email. However, I just ordered the Viking coil over setup - hopefully I can get everything set right where I wan it once that kit is installed.
 
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