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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My alternator runs at a fixed 13.6v and has for years. It’s never been an issue. But I recently bought a standalone controller to bump it up to 14.6v, also fixed. I’m going to install it now with a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The battery is sealed and looks like brand new. I don't know what happened internally but will replace it tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll get at least partial warranty coverage.
 

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1, remove battery from car, 2, find auto parts store, 3, take battery to auto parts store, and have them LOAD TEST IT.

On remote regulator systems, instead of the stock points regulator, there are aftermarket regulators that use newer electronics to run the alternator, and will cause the stock remote regulator alternator to operate between 13.80 to 14.20 volts. These electronic regulators cause the earlier alternators to function similar to the later model internally regulated alternators, a great update. Cross reference a Wells VR715 regulator.

The Delco-Remy cap will interchange onto the aftermarket regulator if you want to go historically correct view.
 

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Regarding post #26, they can load test it but you can't trust their understanding of the result of the test. I had a battery tested at a parts store and they said it's at 9V--it might need a charge. I just laughed and bought a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I took it in and they said their warranty terms required them to charge it and test it. They said come back in an hour. It was 11.9v when I dropped it off.
They called me an hour later and said it was bad, come get a new one. When I picked it up I asked what was wrong with it because my battery tester didn’t show a bad cell. They said it had no cold cranking strength but didn’t show bad cells.
When I got back to my shop I checked the new one before I installed it. It was 12.42 volts. I installed it and started the car and it runs at 13.6v. I’ll see what it is in the AM but I’m now showing a zero milliamperes draw.
I’m going to install my new voltage controller and bump running volts up to 14.6v because I think 13.6v is a little low.
 

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Jim love the Colour of that car you were showing in your pics while testing the battery!
I think that battery had a plate that may have been warped thus the voltage drop. Or the thin insulation between the plates was allowing it to short out. It only takes a pinhole to allow it to short inside the cell of the battery. The cell would not show being bad but part of the cell was or is...
Glad you got it done. I'd check your charging to be sure your alternator is not over charging that new battery takes little time and will save you money now you have the new one!
It can be a a bad diode in the alternator if the new type or a bad regulator if running older style.
Again glad to see they stood behind their products!
 
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1964 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4 door
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I'm not sure if this has already been stated, but standard automotive 12v batterys have 6 cells in them. Each cell holds 2.1 volts. (a easy way to think of it is D cell batteries stacked adding their voltage together) A fully charged new battery rests at 12.6 volts. If you have anything under 12.4 volts when testing a battery at rest I would most likely replace it.
 

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So it is a drain... new dome light fixture.. they are said to be a drain due to chrome plating where the bulb attaches. so a Short. Pin switches in the doors? Trunk light? under hood light? glove box light? Thinking easy to check things first then going to maybe Ignition switch. Drain due to a short where wiring harness may have chaffed on body? That should take out a fuse and shown as blown but...? Corrosion on starter Batt cable connection?
Great ideas here. I just had an issue with the door pin switch on drivers side. It was draining my brand new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
So I haven’t driven the car in 3 days and the battery was at 11.94v when I checked it this AM. The battery cables were connected.
So something is still dragging it down. My meter (Fluke 83lll) shows zero milliamperes so I’m at a loss.
Suggestions?
 

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Are you moving the probes over on the meter to measure current when doing this? Can you put the meter in line with something simple to make sure it is reading? Like a bulb connected directly to the battery or something similar? Pull a fuse put the meter across the terminals to complete the circuit, etc..

If you are moving the probes, there's the potential that the internal fuse of the meter is blown, I've done it too many times to say and keep a spare fuse on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Are you moving the probes over on the meter to measure current when doing this? Can you put the meter in line with something simple to make sure it is reading? Like a bulb connected directly to the battery or something similar? Pull a fuse put the meter across the terminals to complete the circuit, etc..

If you are moving the probes, there's the potential that the internal fuse of the meter is blown, I've done it too many times to say and keep a spare fuse on hand.
Yes, I have to move the red probe from volts to amps. My two scales available are “0000” and “00.00”. Before I pulled the wires from the newly reinstalled fuel gauge, I was showing between 00.00 and 00.01. Nothing when on the 0000 scale.
Everything worked fine for the last year or so even with the fuel gauge connected. I’m wondering if it’s related to my intermittent no-start issue. But something should show up on the meter shouldn't it?
 

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Yes, I have to move the red probe from volts to amps. My two scales available are “0000” and “00.00”. Before I pulled the wires from the newly reinstalled fuel gauge, I was showing between 00.00 and 00.01. Nothing when on the 0000 scale.
Everything worked fine for the last year or so even with the fuel gauge connected. I’m wondering if it’s related to my intermittent no-start issue. But something should show up on the meter shouldn't it?
Yes, that's why I'm saying to check your meter. Mine's so old I have to remove the screws to get to the battery, let alone the fuses.

Hope this helps:

 
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