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Discussion Starter #1
As I mentioned in another post, my driveshaft rubs on my transmission tunnel. Combination of setting the engine/trans up high fir ground clearance and wanting the car to be really low.
I had already enlarged the transmission hump and a portion of the driveshaft tunnel before but obviously not enough. So I’m going back in to be done with the problem once and for all. I plan to raise the driveshaft tunnel from the output flange on the transmission all the way all the way to where it kicks up for the trunk.
Here are some pics of the demo.
All the fuzz on the Dynomat is because I had to glue the carpet down. The modified trans and driveshaft tunnel were shaped just different enough that glue was required.
In the next pics you can see the welding from the first mod that wasn’t big enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Now the cutting..
Used every cutting tooL I have except the plasma cutter.
I’ve left the section at the front edge of the back seat for now. Once I get the other X-members reattached I’ll cut this out too.
Forward of the front of the back seat the tunnel will have a round top. Aft of that point it will be more of a flat top as you can see by the braces I made.
The aluminum bar is just to show the top height of the new tunnel.
The brace at the fist cross member back from the shifter will probably go over the top to support the sheetmetal tunnel and underneath the driveshaft too. It will act as a driveshaft loop of sorts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Next step will be to reinstall the driveshaft, remove the rear springs and check the clearance on the bump stops.
I’m building the braces out of 1/8” and will sheet it over with 18 gauge.
 

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Nice work, you are a better fabricator than me!
 

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Wow Dennis that is a lot of work to accommodate that V6 Engine and 6L50 Trans update

Hope she gets better Gas Mileage than my Ranger Truck 3.0 V6 with a Auto Trans with OD
which will get about 30 Miles to the Gal on long Hwy Trips
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The engine and trans were in and running fine. This mod is because I want the car low(er).
My goal on the mpg was 35. So far and I’ve only checked once, I got 32 mpg. Which isn’t bad for a 66 with aero dynamics of a brick.
I have a Ranger too (4.0 V6) but I’d drive the Chevelle over it everyday.
Except for the AC. It’s been hot here and I miss AC. That may be the next project.
 
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Wow Dennis that is a lot of work to accommodate that V6 Engine and 6L50 Trans update

Hope she gets better Gas Mileage than my Ranger Truck 3.0 V6 with a Auto Trans with OD
which will get about 30 Miles to the Gal on long Hwy Trips

How in the world did you get 30 MPG out of a Ranger? Is this one of the new ones? The ones we have had at work are four cylinders and drink fuel like an LS6. We bought a couple of stripped down ones right at the very end of the last generation of Rangers, and they got 4-5 MPG less than the similarly equipped S10s they replaced, AND had a smaller fuel tank, really limiting range.
 

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Two Trips to Connecticut and back years ago in the 2005 Ranger resulted in the 30 MPG

a lot of HWY Mileage and setting the Cruse Control on the Allowed Max Speed Limit

A 4 Banger will get worst Fuel Economic as it has to work harder/Higher RPM to move that Ranger down the Hwy
I was lucky to get the 3.0 V6 for it's low use of Fuel and it will outlast any 4 Banger

I still have the 05 Ranger sitting in my Driveway, 15+ years old Daily Driver and only 175,000 Km on it
5 more years and I will be looking for a New Truck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Today I put the driveshaft back in to make sure It’s going to clear. I should have about an 3/4” clearance when the bump stops hit.
I left the seat belt holes from the original floor in place because the sheet metal is reinforced. The most forward section of the floor that’s still there is too close to the drive shaft. I’ll have to cut that back more. I’ll cut out the remaining section at the back seat last.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got the front two hoops positioned, centered and welded in. I also cut out the last section of floor.
I decided to build a sheetmetal crossmember for the section at the front of the back seat. Hopefully this will minimize the mods I need to do to the seat frame.
I formed up the parts out of 18 gauge. They go together like a clam shell. I’ll weld them together through the holes I drilled first and then I’ll be able to beat and clamp the ends down an weld them into a beam. I’ll then go back and add a third layer following the arc of the driveshaft cutout. I’ll use weld through primer everywhere before assembling.
 

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