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Discussion Starter #1
I have the malibu POS out of my car now and the new SS dash is locked and loaded.

My question is about the details of wiring the amp gauge. I located which pins are for it on the insde fuse block, on the old fuse block those pins are empty

Can someone list or provide a link to detailed instructions on what kind of wiring i need to run underthe hood please

Do I have to reorganze the harness plug or am I just missing where the wires run to? I hate electrical things

I want this situated before I start reassembling things and I dont want to fry anything through trial and error

Thanks for anyone willing to help an idiot on saturday!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK, we compared the plugs, wires ect to the old dash and everything looks the same on the dash harness except the SS has 2 extra plugs, one that goes over towards the passenger door that has 3 wires and one that stops before the glove box the has 4 wires

I'm guessing the 3 wire is maybe a lead for a console harness? Or perhaps a radio harness...
 

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Sorry, it aint gonna help much but somewhere on this site is a step by step procedure for doing this conversion. I can't find it though.
I know on my car i ran a (i think) a 16 gauge wire from the battery junction on the core support up to the junction block on the fire wall and pinnned it from there to the gauge. I also put a fuse immediately from the junction block just in case it shorted out.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thank you very much, we've got everything hooked up but the amp leads and so far I have no working gauges minus tach and speedo

i'm about to test the fuel gauge and change temp sending units...

lotta work but damn it looks better
 

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You will make two wires for the amp gauge that connect to the forward lamp harness bulkhead connector. See this pic for reference. Wire # 1 will be about 63" overall length, 14 gauge wire. I use black with white stripe similar to the factory. Wire #2 will be about 100" overall length, 14 gauge black. Each wire should have 18 gauge fusible link or an inline fuse. Wire 1 connects to the horn relay. Wire 2 connects to the J-block by the battery. This is a pic of the wires I put together for the amp gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well...

Fuel gauge isnt working (likely sending unit failure), high beam indicator doesnt work, brake light doesnt work, speedo is over 20 MPH over, tach hangs up at 3000....

Havent run Amp guage wiring or put in proper temp sending unit yet...

It seems there might be some kinda weird problem since everything thats on the bottom portion of the cluster isnt working

I'm open to any suggestions. Due to the tach problem it looks like my only choice is dropping it back out and seeing whats going on, man this sucks. I hate electrical work
 

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Elree is dead nuts on it and the info i mentioned isn't on this site its in an old Chevelle Report Magazine.

I'm gettin old.
 

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Hate to tell you this, but it's a bear tracking this stuff down when you're not into it. Go back to the basics, check that all your wiring wasn't altered by a previous owner (mine was), that all your grounds are hooked up (there's one from the back of the cluster to the washer switch if I'm not mistaken) and make sure you have the right color ceramic resistors on the back of the gauges that use it (Fuel & Temp).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
could the resistors be dead?

on the fuel gauge its on E but we were testing it with a light and leads and got it to go up

does the washer go underneath or over the printed circuit? I assumed they were to keep from ripping the circuit and put them on top

on the ground thing, yeah i had 2 ground leads on my old dash this one had 3 so i put them all there

wish i knew a wiring geru I could dump this on and let him fix it

thanks for the replies guys, you have been great help on ideas and the gauge leads!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, fuel gauge had wrong resistor so I pulled it from my old dash

the temp guage is pegging out when its plugged up, i tried the resistor i took off the fuel guage and its still doing the same thing

does anybody know what rating resistor goes on the temp gauge or what color tape should be on the resistor?

I've tried yellow and blue, the red one is on my fuel...

I guess the speedo is just junk and might need to be replaced. Still no luck with brake or high beam light, or AC

tach used to stick at 3000, after quite a few hard pulls its free up to 4000, so maybe it'll come loose if i keep hammering the RPMs into it
 

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I'm not very good at this, but I did a lot of reading on my package a few years ago. The temp gauge should be an easy fix - do a search and I'm certain the fact that it's pegged is an issue someone else has already answered. Sorry I can't help you on the other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The one thing I cant figure out is my underhood wiring has 2 prongs for the temp sending unit and the new sending unit only has 1

I found a post that said the guage is supposed to have a yellow or orange resistor so I'm guessing that is fine and the problem is elsewhere

the one thing that comes to mind is that the temp gauge has 4 mounting poles, 2 are in the printed circuit mix and the top and bottom do nothing but hold the gauge in, the bottom nut looked like it might have been touching the circuit trail so i left it off when testing the blue resistor but maybe I should try the yellow resistor with the nut off...

these glitches are about to drive me up the wall, I'm guessing a new $180 speedo is in my future since this one is still going over and dancing around...

I need to find my high beam indicator problem though or other people are gonna be upset with my wiring gremlins too :D

brake light can kiss my ass
 

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May check your assembly manual. Believe the original temperature sensor was numbered 6489600. Believe it had 2 terminals on it. One ran the idiot light and the other terminal ran the TCS. Your new sensor, has only the gage resistor. That's really the only thing that needs to get connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, thats what we were trying I was just questioning the mental ability of the guy at Oreily's to get me the right part after looking it up in the comp

guess its a ground or resistor problem

I wonder if one of those ground straps i have on the wiper switch is supposed to ground somewhere else? My old dash only had 2 grounding there

Bad ground might explain no brake or high beam light...

I'm gonna fill the tank at lunch and make sure the fuel gauge is right, i know its readin just under half which is about what should be in it
 

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The dash harness has three black wires with ring terminals. They connect as follows. The longest one attaches at the parking brake bracket. The other two attach here and here.

The tach may have a small fragment of metal that has attached it’s self to the magnet inside the movement. The tach can be disassembled and any foreign metal removed from the movement.

The temp gauge has four terminals on the back. The resistor is attached between the top and the bottom terminals. The bottom terminal needs to make contact with the cluster metal back (needs to be grounded). The top terminal makes contact with the resistor. Basically the top terminal grounds through the resistor.

Typically, but not always, the temp gauge has an orange resistor on the.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Mine had a yellow resistor and it was going from left to right, on my printed circuit the top and bottom prongs have no circuit going to then so I thought it was supposed to be right to left...maybe thats the problem then

So your saying the strip with the color goes facing against the back of the gauge rather than facing outward like the one on the fuel gauge?

Thanks very much, sounds like this could be the problem i was having

BTW Fuel gauge reads dead on, doesnt even go over full like it did on my malibu dash which went about 1/8th tanks worth of needle past F
 
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