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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have changed a bunch of stuff on the 66, and including the body bushings last week. I put the steering column to firewall plate rubber insulator back in today.

Still has a seemingly cyclic vibe in the steering wheel, about three increasing vertical shakes, stops, and goes again. Seems less than wheel speed.

Nearly unchanged in five years. New tires, balanced, new front discs, rotors, spindles, shocks, springs, good control arm bushings. Its aligned, does not wear tires.

Rear has new tires, balanced, new shocks, springs, new bushings, adjustable upper arms. Driveline angles are between 1 1/2 to 2 deg iirc.

Driveshaft was balanced.

New crank and shortblock.

Same wheels, rear brake drums, rear gears, axles, etc. Same balancer, flexplate, converter and th 350. Old ragjoint, and orig manual steering box. Tie rods and ball joints are decent.

Suggestions welcome!
 

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Have the wheels them selves checked for straightness/round
They can "balance" to 0 ok but still beout of round or side/side and give you fits I found out the hard way.

Rebuilt the trans driveshaft pinion bearings etc was the wheels the whole time.
Did exactly what you said. Strange "harmonic" noises/vibes gone now, too. Took me a year to figure it all out lol $$$$
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I remember that I set a dial indicator one all four rims once and did not see any significant runout radially or laterally, but wheels are on my wish list.

It comes in at around 50 and is noticeable to 70.
After that the general harshness obscures it.

If I hold the steering wheel with both hands, the wheel seems steadier.
 

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Check front wheel bearings lately?

Also when balancing the tires did you have them balanced on a regular spin balancer, or a load simulating balancer?
A regular spin balance sometimes won't expose certain issues with the tire than a load simulated one will.

Most shops will only use a regular spin balancer unless you specifically request the other style, as it takes longer and is more labor intensive.
But sometimes that's what it takes to find an issue with a tire that would otherwise elude you. By putting the load simulation roller against the tread of the tire and spinning it problems such as tread-ply de-lamination, ect can be diagnosed.
 

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^^^^ Spammer reported.
 

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retarded spammer!
Redundant.

Who makes buying decisions based on unwanted advertising with words misspelled? They must be searching for retarded consumers.
 

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Ok, I have changed a bunch of stuff on the 66, and including the body bushings last week. I put the steering column to firewall plate rubber insulator back in today.

Still has a seemingly cyclic vibe in the steering wheel, about three increasing vertical shakes, stops, and goes again. Seems less than wheel speed.

Nearly unchanged in five years. New tires, balanced, new front discs, rotors, spindles, shocks, springs, good control arm bushings. Its aligned, does not wear tires.

Rear has new tires, balanced, new shocks, springs, new bushings, adjustable upper arms. Driveline angles are between 1 1/2 to 2 deg iirc.

Driveshaft was balanced.

New crank and shortblock.

Same wheels, rear brake drums, rear gears, axles, etc. Same balancer, flexplate, converter and th 350. Old ragjoint, and orig manual steering box. Tie rods and ball joints are decent.

Suggestions welcome!

I chased a vibration for several years. It was the the bushing in the tail housing of the transmission was worn, and allowed the yoke on the the drives haft to wobble a slight bit.


Rocky
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks. Thats one I had not thought of. I did have the ds lengthened to get full engagement onto the tailshaft splines when I had it balanced. I also put a dial indicator on the pinion yoke and verified it to be pretty round.

I may change it before the trans change to see if that helps.
 

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I had the drive shaft rebuilt and it wasn't until I pulled it out a short time after I put it in, I noticed a pretty good wear spot in the middle of the yoke. I had that aha moment.

Leo Paugh loaned me a tool and I was able to remove the bushing in about 5 minutes. The whole job start to finish was about 45 minuites to remove and replace the tail house bushing, and it was about $5.00 for the part.

It solved the vibration I was having. It might be worth looking into. I guarantee, I was sure tired of taking tires and wheels off and on. And a good computer balance on the drive shaft doesn't hurt either.


Rocky
 
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