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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I am hoping that someone can help me since I am stuck!

I have relocated the battery in the trunk, I have a CVI starter and I just purchased a remoter starter solenoid. Also, I have a Malory 140 electric fuel pump, filter and regulator.

How do I wire all that mess together? Would it make sense to put the remote solenoind in the trunk? Then how does it, battery, pump and starter wire together?

Any help, of if you can point me out in the right direction, I would really appreciate it.

Thank you.
 

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Darn those trunk batteries, sem to be jsut a pain


Put the remote solenoid as close to the starter as possible. I have mine on the passenger fenderwell for easy "bumpin' over" access, but you can hide it below the heater core stuff if your a tidy person.

You can even use the above HOT post on teh solenoid to deliver power over to the fuse box and other stuff with a nice 8 or 10 gauge wire along the fire wall.

As for the ground. the battery will go to the rear frame some where. be sure to jumper a thick 2 gauge battery wire between the frame rail on the pasenger side up to the block somewhere. MAybe a header bolt on the rear, or a head bolt if it's convienent. Heck, I'd even put it between one of the start bolts and the starter nose! If you can keep it away from heat. Then put another "braided" strap from the frame (up a ways) to the from of the block, maybe an accesory item tie down.

AS for the pump. same one I run. be sure it's not directly to the trunk or frame. put some rubber grommets or bushings in there. She resonates like crazy!

Come straight off of the battery out back with a 10 gauge wire, to a 30 Amp (fog light type) relay. keep it close to the battery. then run the wire out somewhere to the pump. I grounded my pump just to it's mounting point from the trunk wall. but you can run it back over to the frame ifyou so desire. Now you'll just have to run a "control signal" from the fuse box that is switched. Most likely the "ignition" terminal. Run it back to the relay to energize the coil. Nothing but 16-18 guage stuff is fine. Might better put in a switch for this wire to cut off the power when you don't want it on.


good luck with it all, and remeber to make all connections touch metal, even if you have to wire brush some paint away. A welded bolt on the back frame near the battery for ground is a smart choice.

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71' 3880# with me. Big Block 402, Merlin oval heads, 10.2:1CR, TH400, 3.73 posi,
BEST 1/8th: 8.252 @ 84.56mph (1.855 sixty foot)
Last years previous best 1/4: 13.1sec @ 105 MPH (2.10 sixty foot) to be corrected soon.
Picture of me roasting the tires and other guy stuff
Video of me staging (smoke of course)
 

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648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Mike.

Where do you have your pump mounted? I have seen that some guys have it under the car on the vertical pannel just above and rear to the rear end, but I would think that the way the rear end travels it might hit it.

Thanks again for your help, this is going to be a PITA project.
 

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Yanniz-

Check out my webpage www.wcvt.com/~ghaskin which has images from my recent install of a Triangle Engineering 20 gallon Aluminum fuel cell (I did cut a hole in my trunk floor to accommodate 2" drop sump), K&N billet filter, Mallory Comp 110 pump, and all Aeroquip -8AN lines & fittings. I have to say this was not difficult at all....however the wiring was the most time consuming portion. I took my time and installed a fuel pump electrical relay (from Barry Grant) and followed the instructions. It came out awesome, and all I have left to do is wire in my oil pressure cut-off switch into the fuel pump circuit.

You want to look at images that are named "080401-21" thru "080401-34" for the fuel cell/pump install. E-mail me if you have any questions. Good Luck!


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Gregg Haskin
72 Chevelle SS
ZZ502 Crated RAT
Muncie M-20 4 speed www.wcvt.com/~ghaskin
TEAM CHEVELLE #726
ACES #4486

[This message has been edited by riskyvt (edited 08-27-2001).]

[This message has been edited by riskyvt (edited 08-27-2001).]
 
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