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Discussion Starter #1
Guys i need some help! I just got my 327 done but i dont know how to set the timing.
The valves are set and the #1 piston is at top dead center. The engine is not in the car right now as you may have guessed. Im not sure on what to do next. Please help

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Drop it in, tie it down, and fire it. Just be sure to drop the dist. before you bolt up the tourque converter or any other thing that might move it off of TDC. Be sure you have a good carb w/fuel in it. prime the oil pump, make sure there is some water in there.
After primimg the pump point the slot in the drive at #5. Run that sucker at around 2 grand fot 15-20 min. Change the oil and go like hell.
I allways walk around the car a few times just before I fire em' and I have fired a bunch.
It helps if someome else is there to watch for leaks and man the Halon FIRE extinguisher.
Once it has started, don't idle it, if something is wrong, shut it down,fix the problem, refire and continue at 1500-2000 rpm for the full time.
Harley
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I want to put the engine and tranny in the car at the same time, will doing this change the postition of the number one cylinder? should i prelube the system before or after putting the engine in the car? I know i need to position the oil pump shaft towards the pushrod on the # 5 cylinder but what do i need to do so that my distributer will line up correctly and fire the cylinder that i want?
 

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Engine/tranny in at the same time is ok, Just don't do the converter, flexplate/thing yet. If you point the oil pump drive at # 5 then that's where #1 on the dist cap will be.
If you look closely oil pump drive slot,oil pump drive on the dist and the rotor all line up. So when you drop the dist the rotor should be pointing at where #1 on the cap will be. You useing points or HEI? Just remember these engines where factory built at one time ane everything should line up.
Crank gear dot/cam gear dot (at top) with centerline of engine, oil pump/rotor with dist cap. all on #1 TDC.
Prime at as close to fireing as possable.
TIP: mark the priming tool shaft at the top to indicate position of the drive.
Fireing at TDC will get it started and running you can adjust BTDC after cam break-in.
Harley
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Harley i am using points as of now. how do i put the engine/tranny in without putting in the conv/flexplate? Can i hook everything up...engine/tranny/flexplate/conv...with the distributer in, then remove the distrubitor and put it in, then prelube the engine and put the dist. back in? Thanks for your help!

[This message has been edited by 68chevelle (edited 07-22-99).]
 

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All you have to do is leave the the dist. out while you are putting the engine and trans. in the car, so that you dont hit it accidentally when you put them in. also dont hook the conv. to the flex yet. you can bolt the rest together out side the car. bolting the conv./flex together once its in is easy under the car. once the engine and trans is in and bolted down make sure its still at TDS and set in your dist like they said before/ (Make sure to pre lube first) and start it up. I am about to start up my 64 malibu after a 600 hp trans plant. If I can figure out all the bugs in my pully/water pump/ everthing....
 

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As Said, Install flexplate and converter as normal, just don't bolt them together yet as this will require rotating the motor. Drop motor/drop dist/mate flexplate to converter/ install plugs. Installing plugs last will make it easyer to roatate the motor for flexplate to converter match.
Note: use Loctite on the converter bolts.
When you have roter pointing towards #1 on the cap, rotate dist housing to where points are just opening. This will get it started and you can dial in timming after the cam is broken in. It helps if your Fire man/ leak detector person can rotate the dist a little during breakin but is not absolutly nessessary.
Harley
P.S. 68 I am going to be at a swapmeet the next three days but will try to check in early in the morning and each evening.
 

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First, make sure the is at TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. (That's how they end up 180 degrees off.) When you drop the distributor in, you may notice two things. First, you may notice that the rotor turns clockwise as the distributor is going down. You may have to remove it and turn it counter-clockwise a little and reinstall it to get to line up where you want it. Second, you may also notice that the distributor doesn't drop down all the way to the intake. Just put the hold-down clamp on it and install the bolt. Tighten the bolt just enough to put a little pressure on the clamp. Don't tighten the bolt with an impact. Turn the engine until the distributor drops. Tighten the bolt just enough to keep the distributor from turning. Turn the engine two complete turns until the timing mark comes up indicator on the timing cover. Align the mark at about 10 dgrees before TDC. Now check your rotor. It should be pointing at the #1 plug wire on the cap. Remember, you should have already established that the engine was at TDC of the compression stroke before you began. Just in case you need to know how to tell if the engine is on compression or exhaust stroke, there are two ways to tell.
1. Remove the spark plug from the #1 cylinder and have someone turn the engine by hand while you stick your thumb over the hole in the head. When your thumb is blown off the hole, that is the compression stroke. Continue turning the engine until the timing mark is at TDC. You are now ready to time the distributor.
2. With the valve cover removed from the odd bank, turn the engine until you see the rocker for the exhaust move up and then down. Continue turning the engine. When the exhaust valve is almost closed, you should see the intake rocker start to move. Keep turning the engine until the intake closes. Now start watching the the timing marks. Continueturning the engine until the timing mark is at TDC. Again, you are ready to time the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Randy thats for the input, the only real question i have for now is how do i set the engine at 10 degrees before top dead center with no static timing marks, as the engine is a early 327 and i believe only 1972 and after engines came with them.(Correct me if i am wrong please) I have the tab that tells me if the crank/pistons are in the right position/ says A,,,,O,,,,R ... is that for advance/ retarding ? Thanks again
 

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1)You can use timing tape on the balancer, you can read the degrees on the tape where it lines up with the TDC mark
2) You can get a nice Sun adjustable advance light like I have, you can dial in the advance with a knob on the light, this moves the TDC mark on the balancer to line up with the TDC pointer.

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Easy tip; Last thing before starting. With dist. in and all connected, hook up timing light, turn on key, and rotate dist. pretty quick until the timing light flashes. With the timing marks lined up the way you want it timed, this will tell you that you're pretty close and engine will start up and run ok for initial break in. Definately prime engine oil sys. before starting. tom
 

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You are correct. the A stands for advance, the R stands for retard. The O is TDC. Now look closely at the tab. The hash marks you described are the timing marks on early Chevys. Each mark represents two degrees. For four degrees advance, you set mark at the second hash mark on the A side. For ten degrees, set it at the fifth mark. It helps to use a piece of chalk to mark the tab and the balancer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am getting ready to hook up the tranny to the engine and need to get the front seal out of the powerglide. Any ideas to help get it out?

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