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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well yes it will but i have to disconnect the 6al box. all i did was remove the electric choke in order to get the 2ndary vac housing off to change to quick change. i did not put the choke back on because i dont want it. now the car wont turn off. if i reconnect the choke to ignition hot and a ground it turns off fine. what am i missing????

Thanks, Tim

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70 Chevelle My Ride
 

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Tim,
Read the instructions that came with your MSD box. There is an easy fix for this using a resistor on the alternator wire. If you can't find the manual, I believe the info is on their website.
Been there and done that...it works. Something about a MSD box needing very little residual voltage to continue to run.

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Bill Burke
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'67 El Camino "SS"
468, TH400, 4.11 12 bolt, 13.1 @106
'80 Camaro RS
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'67 El Rat
'80 Camaro RS
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info... ill check it out. why would the electic choke make a difference?

Also the carb pulled air through a hole in the side in order to cool the choke. do i now plug this hole or just leave it open? seems just like a big vacuum leak to me.

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When you connect the choke to the "hot" ignition, you effectively drain off the current I would suspect.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ive got the alternator with the internal voltage regulator. in this case it says to connect the diode to the small wire coming from the alternator usually a brown wire. in my case i have two wires a blue and a yellowish that i think used to be white. which do i hook it too. im doing a search but i dont see anything yet.

Thanks, Tim

anyone got any info on the hole in the carb?

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I went through the same deal. Do you want to still use the electric portion of the choke assembly to operate your fast idle, but not use the choke plate? If so, keep the vacuum hose hooked up to the choke housing. It draws air through there so you don't "cook" the element inside there. The housing is almost sealed, so if you kept 12 volts on that spring coil inside there and no air drawing through it, it would overheat. It has a restricor in it and a screened outlet, so it is not sucking that much air. Won't be a huge leak. Just do not hook it up to that little port on the front of a Holley that shares the same vacuum as the power valve. It will be enough of a "leak" to cause your power valve to be open and you will run rich/foul plugs. Been there, done that. If you are disconnecting the 12V that went to that assembly and removing the choke altogether, just unplug the hose and cap it off.
Let me know if any of this wasn't clear.

Jim


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
epistuff- im taking the whole thing off. it was clear except that i dont use the hose and it has air drawn through a small hole in the side the same way the vac secondaries do. it looks like an identical hole. how would i plug this because it doesnt have a tube to cap off like the others? do i just put the mechanical choke back on which plugged the hole, or should i do something else?

Thanks, Tim

Let me know if i wasnt clear

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when I read the topic on this one it reminded me of a time when one of my students e-mailed me "need help quick my computer is smoking!"


sorry couldn't resist
 

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Tim,
You can plug that hole with anything. Epoxy, JB Weld, RTV....
Ask the folks at Holley, they'll tell you the same thing. I have used JB Weld in the past.

Jim
 
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