[jxnslotcar]

I have an 65 2 dr post car that was raced in the 60's and 70's. I found it sitting in a field in Ohio. I am in the midst of getting the car back in shape to take it bracket racing. I found a complete fiberglass front clip for it in Iowa and the interior was already stripped out as was the trunk.
I am putting a 6 pt roll bar in it to help stiffen the frame. I have the main hoop tacked in it and figured out the placement of the door bars. I still need to weld in the door bars. Everything will be welded to the frame. The kit from Jegs came with 6 inch plates to weld in and the the bars welded to those plates. The front plates will need to be bent to fit the frame. (at least that is what I have been told.) It seems like it would be easier to just weld the bars to the frame but what do I know.
The other question are the rear bars. Where should they go? Should they go where the frame starts to rise up to go over the rear diff (this is also where the ladder bars are connected) or towards the top of the rise or somewhere in between? I have taken a few days off of work so I can work on the car but this has me stumped. Measuring and Cutting angles is NOT my forte. I probably should have had someone install the cage but I wouldn't learn anything by doing that. I have been boxing in the frame as well. This car will be light when done and will be running a 355 that is kinda healthy. I still need to figure out what to do for a rear diff. It has a single leg 8.2 diff in it. I have been told the weak part would be the gears. I am going to use Moser axles and Eaton posi with Richmond gears or something similar. Probably a 4.88 or 5.13 for 1/8th mile track

 

[JBoggs]

I have a 72 with a 6 point I welded in, the rear welded directly to the shock towers or right above the coil. Nice flat spot to land the bar. Had to cut a hole in the front of the trunk and patched it back it with steel and rivets. I know on a full frame car it must be welded not bolted to the frame.