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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a 67 Chevelle yesterday which needs quite a bit of work, but the price was good. Anyway the first thing I want to do is get the ignition working properly. Currently in order to start the car I need to touch the HEI Resistance wire which is currently only attached to the distributor BAT terminal, to the Starter wire. From what I can tell I need to get this resistance wire that is currently attached to the HEI and route it to the fuse box. I started trying to do this but was unsure of how. Do I access the fuse box thru the engine side or dash side? And from there how do I know where to connect the resistance wire? Any help on this would be great. I am feeling a bit overwhelmed right now as this will be my first time attempting a restoration without the assistance of my Dad.

In addition to the ignition wiring, the rest of the wiring looks like a rats nest. Should I re-wire the entire car?

Thanks for any advice
 

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First of all, congrats on a new Chevelle. Second, I would say don't use the resistance wire for distributor power if it still has the resistor in it. It will not be enough to power the HEI. HEI requires 12V, resistance wire only puts out about 6-8 volts. I converted to HEI and ran a whole new power lead altogether which is what I would suggest. If not, make sure the resistor is out of the 12V lead going to the distributor. I would also try to obtain wiring diagrams for your year and see what you got going on electrically before you start ripping out wires and possibly having to invest money that may not be needed. Just my .02, good luck.
 

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If you are going to put a lot of time and money into this car, do it right and don't take a chance on this thing burning up in the middle of the night or on the road.

Sounds like things are pretty Mickey Mouse'd up all right. I'd put a new harness in it myself, but I know others will not agree. A 38 year old rats nest of what was once marginal wire to begin with is asking for trouble IMHO. Especially if you want to add any electrical accessories.

Get some help if you can't handle it on your own. Join a club if nothing else. The resources in a club are tremendous. Where are you located? It may help to put that info on your posts on here so guys can meet up with you to offer to help.

Agree with Nvr2Fast on the resistance of that wire, but verify it's an HEI (usually very large cap) and not a stock distributor with a points replacement module in there. I know the points replacement modules need the resistance in some cases.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think I used the wrong term before when I said resistance wire. I got that from an article on installing HEI distributors so I thought it was the right term but anyway I do believe it is the correct 12V wire. I am just not sure how to wire it to the fuse box (I am a total novice when it comes to anything electrical). I thought I should run it thru the engine side of the firewall but the fuse box does not seem to have access from this side unless I am looking at it wrong. I want to just get this figured out so I can start the car without hotwiring it and then I plan on either running some new harnesses myself or more likely finding someone to do it or help me do it.

Does anyone have any diagrams or pics of how to wire the distributor to the fuse box?

I live in Roseville, CA so if anyone knows of any shops in the area (roseville, rocklin, folsom, sacramento, etc) that could do something like re-wire the entire car I would love to hear about it. Also any ideas on what I should expect to pay for this?

Thanks to everyone for the posts so far and for future posts.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I used the wrong term before when I said resistance wire. I got that from an article on installing HEI distributors so I thought it was the right term but anyway I do believe it is the correct 12V wire. I am just not sure how to wire it to the fuse box (I am a total novice when it comes to anything electrical). I thought I should run it thru the engine side of the firewall but the fuse box does not seem to have access from this side unless I am looking at it wrong. I want to just get this figured out so I can start the car without hotwiring it and then I plan on either running some new harnesses myself or more likely finding someone to do it or help me do it.

Does anyone have any diagrams or pics of how to wire the distributor to the fuse box?

I live in Roseville, CA so if anyone knows of any shops in the area (roseville, rocklin, folsom, sacramento, etc) that could do something like re-wire the entire car I would love to hear about it. Also any ideas on what I should expect to pay for this?

Thanks to everyone for the posts so far and for future posts.

Greg
 

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Greg, you are going to have to run the wire through the firewall (you can probably shove it through an existing grommet) into the passenger compartment and over to the fuse box. Put a female connector on the wire and plug it into a spade on your fusebox identified as "Ign", so that the wire is hot only when the ignition switch is on. Look at this picture from someone's '69 El Camino website, your wire should go where the light blue one is in this picture:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.angelfire.com/retro/project-69/int/fusebox.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.angelfire.com/retro/project-69/int.html&h=640&w=480&sz=49&tbni d=syAC03LkQvUJ:&tbnh=134&tbnw=101&start=16&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfusebox%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26safe%3Doff
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I got the wire from the BAT terminal on the distributor hooked into the fuse box but no luck on starting the car. Can someone give me an overview of what wires need to be where in the whole ignition scheme. I ordered a wiring diagram but don't have it yet.
 

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Is the engine spinning when you turn the key? If so, check for 12 volts to ground on the HEI BAT wire. You should have 12 volts when the key is turned to START and 12 volts when released to RUN (ON). There should be no voltage when the key is OFF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No I don't get anything when I turn the key. there is still something missing in the ignition wiring somwhere.
 

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Is the battery OK? Are the battery cables clean and tight on both sides? I assume this is an automatic car.
 

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Greg, there is a Sacramento based Chevelle club. Do a search on here for a guy that goes by the name of "spawn22" He's their webmaster. You can probably get some help from the guys in the club and you'll likely want to join.

Sometimes it's pretty hard to troubleshoot some of these things without being there and having a meter. A little knowledge and a meter make a world of difference. No more guessing.

Steve

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
John, the battery is brand new and the cables are good. I am able to hotwire the car, there is just something missing or damaged in the ingition wiring.

Steve, thanks for the contact, i will try and contact sacchevelles.
 

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Are you hot wiring it under the dash or jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver? Explain a little more how you hot wired it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I got a wiring diagram and I wired it up the way I believe is correct. here is what I have from the ignition switch,

SOL-Purple wire to starter soleniod
IGN-Pink wire to fuse box (resistance wire from fuse box no loner connected to Coil because HEI distributor was installed)
BAT-Red Wire to the battery
ACC-currently going nowhere it was cut off
GND-grounded

the the battery goes to the starter.
ok this is where my nest strays from the diaram.

from the starter there are two large red wires, one going straight to the alternator BAT terminal and the second one goes first to the electronic choke on the carborator and then to the 4 spot on the alternator plug.

When I got the car it was as explained with the exception of the SOL-purple wire was cut at the firewall. SO i connected this to the Solenoid and I connected the BAT terminal of the HEI distributor to the male ign post of the fuse box.

Still nothing when I turn the key, could I have a bad fuse box? Or could it be the way the starter is wired to the alternator?

Any help is much appreciated. I just want to get to the point where I can start and turn it off with the key then after then when i pull the engine I plan on rewiring.

Thanks

greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh also I forgot the way I was hot wiring it was to take the loose wire from the starter solenoid and touching it to an open connector on the red wire from the starter to the alternator.

thanks
 

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"from the starter there are two large red wires, one going straight to the alternator BAT terminal and the second one goes first to the electronic choke on the carborator and then to the 4 spot on the alternator plug."

For a 69 this is wrong. Not sure what the line is doing from the solenoid to the alternator. I'm guessing there was some old problem and someone bypassed things. Also guessing that the wire isn't fused which isn't good.
The line to the choke will drain the battery when the car is off and also ruin the choke over time. It's holding the choke on all the time. Wrong place to hook it up.

"When I got the car it was as explained with the exception of the SOL-purple wire was cut at the firewall. SO i connected this to the Solenoid and I connected the BAT terminal of the HEI distributor to the male ign post of the fuse box."

This sounds ok.

"Still nothing when I turn the key, could I have a bad fuse box? Or could it be the way the starter is wired to the alternator?"

The alternator wiring is wrong and should be put back so the alternator connects to the horn relay.
There is a large terminal on the horn relay that the postive battery wires ties to. There should be a wire that runs behind the radiator and heads back to the battery. Behind the battery there is a junction block that this wire goes to. The other side of the junction block goes to battery (+). See if it still has all this. Measure the large red wire on the horn relay to ground. Should have 12 volts. Guessing something happened in this area and the last guy bypassed it because he was lost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
John, thanks for taking your time to explain all this to me. I will see what i can do about re-wiring from starter. The car is a 67 though not a 69. Does that change any of your advice? Also how should the electronic choke be wired into all of this? And what about the second wire going to the alternator? Not the wire going to the BAT terminal but the one that goes to the white plug at the number 4 spot.

Thanks

Greg
 

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No both cars are similar with the wiring in that area.
One place for the choke is the yellow wiper wire. Not the very best spot but will work.
You have a "number 4" on your alternator? How many wires go to the alternator? Can think of a "4" on the regulator but not on a alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There are 3 total wires on the alternator. One fromthe starter to the BAT terminla and another from the starter to the white clip and there is a 4 on the alternator where the red wire is going. The third wire is just a ground but it also goes into the white clip.

If I wire the choke to the wiper wire, will it only be hot when the wipers are on?
 

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"There are 3 total wires on the alternator. One fromthe starter to the BAT terminla and another from the starter to the white clip and there is a 4 on the alternator where the red wire is going. The third wire is just a ground but it also goes into the white clip."

What brand of alternator is it? Can't think of one that runs ground into a connector.

"If I wire the choke to the wiper wire, will it only be hot when the wipers are on?"

The yellow wire is hot when the key is ON. The wipers work by switching the other wires, in the wiper plug, to ground.
 
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