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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had new tires put on my 99 GMC 3/4-ton 4x4 (older style body & 350 engine) by a Goodyear service center.

They did an alignment, and said they could get the camber within spec, but that they could not get the angles close to each other.

The camber on the right front is .3 deg. The left front is .9 deg. He told me in order to get them more even, he'd have to take off the bolts on the upper control arm to punch out the slot in each of the 4 eccentric washers. Of course, it would take 2 hrs and $120.00. What I want to know from a GM tech. is if this is necessary? The specified range for camber is .2 - 1.2 degrees. Will the .6 deg difference from left to right hurt my new tires?

I also replaced the brake pads on the front. I recall last summer the pass front caliper stuck, and heated up my pads quite a bit, but it only happened once. Well, I took apart the drivers side today, and found that this caliper must have been sticking out for a while, I have about a 1/16" groove on the inside of the rotor.

What I need to know is if I can get a new rotor from a place like NAPA. I called, and tried to explain that I have the older body style, but no one understood. I think my rotors are the same as 3/4-ton trucks for like the past 10 model years.

Can I go pick up a rotor for say, a 1996 GMC 3/4-ton 4x4, and get the right part?

The caliper seems fine now, but I only have 30,000 miles on the truck, and that one inside pad was almost down to the metal, whereas all the other pads are still about 1/4" thick. Should I rebuild the caliper before putting on a new rotor?

Any prices on the calipers & rotors would be helpful, if a GM parts guy sees this.

Thanks!
 

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Was just reading this and went to the NAPA on line site. Seems that 98 99 and 00 are all different part numbers for the rotors. I do know that there were some "issues" with the brakes around this time on both Chev and GMC trucks. Might check with a dealer for any recalls or service bulletins. Never know, could save you some money. Found this one at: http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/99-05-24-001A.html


Brake Lead/Pull and Front Brake Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads And/Or Rear Brake Shoes) #99-05-24-001A
Brake Lead/Pull and Front Brake Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads And/Or Rear Brake Shoes)
1992-1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Cab Chassis, Crew Cab, and Pickup Models with Power Brakes (RPO JB8)

1992-1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Suburban Models with 8600# GVW (RPO C6P)

1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC G Vans with Power Brakes (RPO JD7 & JB8) and GVW's of 7,700# up to 9,500# (RPO's C3F, C6P, & E23)

This bulletin is being revised to update information in the Models Section and Correction Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-05-24-001 (Section 5 -- Brakes).

Condition
Some owners may comment about the vehicle leading or pulling to either side while applying the brakes, and premature front brake wear, especially vehicles that have been used to tow a heavy load.

Cause
The condition may be caused by wearing of the front brake material. Improvements to the above conditions can be gained through brake material modifications. On the Suburban models, the best performance from this new brake material can be achieved with replacing the brake combination valve.

Correction
Replace the rear brake shoes with P/N 18029651. THIS FIX DOES NOT APPLY TO THE 13 x 2 1/2 BRAKE, DURASTOP™ P/N 18029650, OR ANY OTHER SIZE. On Suburban models, a brake combination valve must be replaced. ALL OTHER MODELS (C/K, G Van), NO BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE CHANGE IS REQUIRED. Refer to the Drum Brakes or Hydraulic Brakes subsection of the appropriate Service Manual. For G2/G3 Series Vans only (with GVW's of 7,700# up to 9,500# -- RPOs C3F, C6P, E23) also replace the front brakes pads with P/N 12471685. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate Service Manual.


Important
The new front brake pad material has been selected for improved wear characteristics. Some customers may experience increased brake noise from this brake pad and should be advised that some squeal is a characteristic of this particular material.

Important
If you encounter disc brakes that are extremely worn on the inboard side, with very little wear to the outboard side, verify the clearance between the caliper and the steering knuckle bracket stops.

MEASURE THE CLEARANCES INDIVIDUALLY AND ADD THE CLEARANCES TOGETHER FOR TOTAL CLEARANCE BEFORE REMOVING THE CALIPER. If the caliper (total clearance) to the steering knuckle stops is under 0.26 mm (0.010 in), correct this by filing metal off at the steering knuckle stops in order to obtain a total clearance of 0.26 to 0.60 mm (0.010 to 0.024 in). DO NOT FILE METAL OFF OF THE CALIPER. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate Service Manual for additional information on this procedure.


Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
18029651 (17452R Canada) Shoe Kit, RR Drum Brk (13 x 3.5 in.) 1
12471685 Pad Kit, Frt Disc Brk 1
15650150 (92-94 Suburbans) Valve Asm., Brake Comb. 1
12548265 (95 and Newer Suburbans) Valve Kit, Brake Comb. 1

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation Description Labor Time
H0257 Shoes and Linings, Drum Brake - R&R or Replace (Rear) Use published labor operation time
H0042 Pads, Disc Brake - R&R or Replace (Front) 1.0 hr*
H0780 Valve, Brake Combination - Replace Use published labor operation time
*This time is updated from the current Labor Time Guide. The next issue will contain this change.

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
 

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etd66ss, sounds like d1bradley answered your brake question so i will help with your alignment problem, i did many of these and the tech is right,gm did not put the eccentrics in at the factory to adjust camber and caster,so original bolts are removed and the indentation put in at the factory has to be "punched out" and the eccentrics installed the amount they are asking is about right i charged about the same to install both sides.now the specs,4x4's call for alot of positive camber,top of wheel leaning out,this is for serious 4 wheelers and is not necassary for everyday drivers 4 wheel drives have a tendancy to "cup" the outer edge anyway so to help that don't go over .5 degree positive camber and rotate every 3000 miles also when you rotate cross the fronts to the rear and bring rear straight up this will help straighten out the "cupping effect" if you don't do this your tires will "roar" going down the road,ever hear a 4wheel drive going down the road and hear a "wump wump" sound thats the " cupping" i talked about.rotate like i said and your tires will last a good long time.hope this helps.JIMK
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I talked to the dealer, and the problem is not covered under my warranty.

I got a price for a new rotor, $166.00!

The part number is 12549136 If anyone knows where I can get one cheaper than that, please let me know.

And as far as the camber goes, I should have this done?

Can I punch out the washers myself, then take it in for an alignment and save some money?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found the rotors at NAPA for $80 a piece.

At first the guy at the counter said he did not have them, but I went on-line and searched the NAPA site with the GM part number, and once I gave him the corresponding NAPA part number, he magically found two of them in stock.

These parts guys are getting so damn lazy!!!
 

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if your tire wear is o.k. then don't worry about it,no don't try this at home,but you can get the eccentrics from napa
just keep up a good rotation schedule and you should be fine.JIMK
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I got the pads & rotors & the big ass socket I needed to get the nut off of the end of the drive shaft, but how the hell does the rotor come off?

Do I need to take the 4 15mm bolts out behind the rotor? I'm assuming this connects the hub to the knuckle?

Will I need to put new studs in the new rotor? Or do they press into the hub?

If so, will this expose the bearings? Will I need to replace any gaskets/seals if I take this apart?

I tried to find something on-line that showed an assembly view, but to no avail.

I'm really stuck here, I tried to loosen those 15mm bolts, but my impact could not move them!
 

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those rotors just slip on if you have cv type axles just spray some wd-40 or the like around the hub center and studs. let sit and then whack with hammer should come loose. tighten that big nut back up does not need to come off.JIMK just noticed yours is 3/4 ton not sure on those rotors find a repair manual and check.

[This message has been edited by JIMK (edited 12-21-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I just bought a chiltons manual for my PC. But just my luck, When I go to type in the serial numder on the CD case to install the software, it says my code is invalid! ARGH!!!

Nothing is going right today!

[This message has been edited by ETD66SS (edited 12-21-2001).]
 

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On your 3/4 ton 4x4 you do have to remove the axle nut then you are going to have to brake loose and remove the 4 flange bolts from behind the backing plate (tons of fun)but it has to be done. be careful of the ABS sensor it may be wise to remove it from the hub first have broken a few doing this.once you get the 4 bolts out you will need to persuade the hub & rotor off (B.F.H.). Once you have it off you will have to drive out the wheel studs to separate the hub from the rotor. You can reuse the studs if you are careful. Then just reverse all the fun that you just had pulling this apart to put it back together.
Good Luck

------------------
70 chevelle
468 Th400w/brake
12bolt 4.30 spool
1/4 11.16
mph 118
60ft 1.56
Only 4 passes on new car still got bugs to work out
 

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ETD, (wish you guys would use your names)
Am I reading correctly that your truck only has 30,000 miles on it ?? I am pretty sure that 99's have a 3yr 36000 mile warranty, at least that is what my 99 Tahoe has. I would also have to question why the truck needs tires and brakes at 30 k miles ?? Are you doing a lot of heavy towing or hauling ? My Tahoe has 26K on it and I just rotated the tires for the second time. The brake pads still look like new, same with the tires. Mine is also the "old" body stye, with a 350.
Just curious,

------------------
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I called the dealer, and they said there is absolutely no coverage on brakes at 30,000, no matter what the problem is.

When I got the truck, my first ever brand new vehicle, I figured I did not have to check the tire pressure. Well, they are load range E, supposed to be 55 psi up front, 80 psi in rear, the dealer had 25 psi all around, I drove it like that for 3000 mi, noticed that I lost about 1/4" of tread after the first 3000 miles! The dealer would not do anything about the tire wear, they did not belive they had only put 25 psi in the tires, they assumed it was my fault.

The problem with the drivers side rotor must have just happened within the last 2000 mi, as I did not see this problem the last time I was under there to change the oil. I guess the calipers can stick on the knuckle because of insufficeint clearance. I filed the knuckle as described in the article above.

All I really use the truck for is highway usage, no off roading at all.

I hate dealers, they suck!
 

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Brake pads and rotors are considered normal wear and tear items not covered under warranty but the caliper should be. Even though you are inder 36,0000 miles you could be over the 36 months limit.

That being said, the dealer could turn the rotors. I have had the rotors turned and then had new rotors installed at 35,900 miles on a 1999 K2500 Suburban under warranty. It's all up to the dealer on how he wants to handle this. If he determines its normal wear then you are out of luck, if on the other hand it's a defect he can warranty.

The rotors on my 1999 HD K2500 Subururban fleet vehcile listed for $495 each, they were not in the parts catalog, in Summer of 98 they made some change in production that was not noted in the parts book. Be advised that the old style trucks have some major brakes issues. The state police have some 99 2WD Tahoe's and they are in the dealer constantly for brake problems. One officer told me they cannot get 10,000 miles on the front rotors and pads. They have gone to NASCAR style rotors and pads and they still fail suddendly.

[This message has been edited by elcamino (edited 12-23-2001).]
 

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BTW I just put the GM part number (12549136) for the rotors into the www.GMPARTSDIRECT.com websight and they come back with a list price of $166 and their price of $83.00 each. They do add a hefty handling and shipping charge, but they are OEM and probably not manufactured in China.
 
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