[Mackz312]

Hello everyone! This is my first post coming onto the forum, figured this would be the best place to help solve my problem, I apologize, because I have searched around and still can't find a finite answer to my question, especially since everyone is doing something a little different.

So I have a 69 Chevelle, which I am excitedly putting a 496 stroker and just had the rear end rebuilt with 3.42's, So in the front of the car, I have installed global wests front control arms, Koni shocks, and 1" lowering springs. My current issue is, I would like to place a 3/4" or 1" lowering springs in the rear, and Im uncertain if I can simply put new bushings in the old rear upper and lower control arms, or am I going to have to spend the money and buy rear tubular adjustable upper and lower control arms? Or possibly just upper or just lower. When I spoke with global west on the phone, they said it would add more stress to my driveline, but I can't see it doing that much damage only dropping the vehicle 1". Thanks in advance for the help, hope I was able to clarify my issue enough.

 

[kolo]

Seemed to me that 1 inch lower is an estimate/relative ... I had 2" BMR and have SPC springs (both 550lb) on the front. I have 1 1/4 inch of shims - 2 1/2" ride height on the front- If you can afford, coil overs will save you some (read that as LOTS of...) swear words. Every adjustment is a dis assembly. I wish I had bought the coilovers. Be ready to adjust the ride height.
Consider installing the helper air bags in the lowered rear springs. Its a lot easier before they are under the car. You'll be able to tweak the height easily. Collapse them w a vac pump to make them easier to get in the springs. The air port goes to the top, wonder why I stress that?
I have a 9" Curie (trutrac 3.50), curietrac billet lowers, UMI adjustable uppers and a real sway bar (helwig adjustable) am very happy with how it handles the 496 torque in all situations.
tremec has a very handy ap that you can download that will measure driveline angles and does a bunch of calcs for you

 

[Mackz312]

Seemed to me that 1 inch lower is an estimate/relative ... I had 2" BMR and have SPC springs (both 550lb) on the front. I have 1 1/4 inch of shims - 2 1/2" ride height on the front- If you can afford, coil overs will save you some (read that as LOTS of...) swear words. Every adjustment is a dis assembly. I wish I had bought the coilovers. Be ready to adjust the ride height.
Consider installing the helper air bags in the lowered rear springs. Its a lot easier before they are under the car. You'll be able to tweak the height easily. Collapse them w a vac pump to make them easier to get in the springs. The air port goes to the top, wonder why I stress that?
I have a 9" Curie (trutrac 3.50), curietrac billet lowers, UMI adjustable uppers and a real sway bar (helwig adjustable) am very happy with how it handles the 496 torque in all situations.
tremec has a very handy ap that you can download that will measure driveline angles and does a bunch of calcs for you

Hello, and thanks for the reply! So I apologize because I am aware how much of a newbie question this may be, but would it be possible or unorthodox to run coil overs in the back, and spring/shocks in the front? Reason I'm asking is because I already have the springs pressed into my front A arms, and it was a pain in the a**. Good to know that those bags are also a consideration, it seems that the car used to have those, and I pulled them out because of how old and rotted they were.

And to follow up then, if I am understanding you correctly, I will NEED to buy the uppers and lowers then? Granted I do not have a drive shaft yet, so technically I can get one with a CV joint I would imagine.

 

[bop468]

You should be able to use the drop springs, change the bushings on the stock control arms and be fine suspension wise. However you may need to change to a shorter shock if when you jack the car up with all of the new parts installed and your springs move around. The shocks fully extended preload the springs and keep them in place.

 

[UMI Tech]

Welcome to the group!

I'm in the business of building and selling premium Made In USA trailing arms.

To answer your question about ride height, I think ride height has nothing to do with strength or performance. If your stock arms are in good shape, for example, you wouldn't need to do anything different. Think of moderate lowering as permanently having a toolbox in the trunk to change ride height.

Bushing and boxing upgrades are nice if you can do them.

For a good entry level boost in performance and quality check these out.

UMI 401516

 

[kolo]

If you do put the bags in, my 3" exhaust is close to them. I put sleeve of velcroed insulation wrap around the springs to protect them from heat. The first set of bags I used were overheated by a 2 1/2" system. I hate it, but am a victim of my own lack of research before spending money on suspension and exhaust.
If you're lowering the car would think the adjustable rear uppers are the better choice to ensure pinion angle is good. Use the frame braces on the front mount of the uppers or get new ones. The rear height is so easy to adjust, think save the money on the rear coil overs.
As for driveshafts, there are lots of good mfrs. I tried local in south carolina and had a fail due to vibration so I used inland empire driveline and am very happy. go with solid (not greaseable) 1350 u joints
www.iedls.com
My brother used Denny's for a 496 powered c10 because he was local and is very happy
they are very busy
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com
an old gearhead asked me - "ever thought about how much damage a broken axle would cause as the wheel exits the car if you broke a 12 bolt axle with that 496?"
that's why I got a 9" from currie, instead of doing c clip eliminators. have a drain plug installed in it, it costs less than 100. I did not and regret it.
just saying...

 

[Mackz312]

Welcome to the group!

I'm in the business of building and selling premium Made In USA trailing arms.

To answer your question about ride height, I think ride height has nothing to do with strength or performance. If your stock arms are in good shape, for example, you wouldn't need to do anything different. Think of moderate lowering as permanently having a toolbox in the trunk to change ride height.

Bushing and boxing upgrades are nice if you can do them.

For a good entry level boost in performance and quality check these out.

UMI 401516

Thank you for reaching out. I will have to give UMI a call today and pick some of your brains on the topic. I’m just struggling because it seems everyone has different thoughts, and I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

 

[Kirk's67SS]

Have you checked your current Rear Pinion Angle ?

Are you going to Race the Car or do some Hard Street Launches ??

To make sure you do not have any Wheel Hop I would at lest buy Upper Adjustable Rear Control Arms,
that way if the Pinion Angle changes you can adjust it
and good Lower Boxed Rear Control Arms
I bought these for my 67 1964-1967 GM A-Body Tubular Upper & Fully Boxed Premium Lower Rear Control Arms Kit - UMI Performance Inc.
they both come with the Bushings in them except you have to buy Bushings for the Rearend Ears which I also did
Plus Front and Rear Sway Bars
I bought these for my 67 1964-1972 GM A-Body Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit - UMI Performance Inc.

Best Quality and Fit/Finish Suspension Parts I have used IMHO and therefore Best Bang for your Buck