[Krister]

I am installing this weekend a Pertronix Ignitor II with their Flame Thrower coil for the reliability of electronic ignition while keeping a factory look (except for the extra wire) their Flame Thrower coil and will have the distributor out to do so. My quandary is: My current idle timing is at 18 degrees BTDC at 900 RPM. Any less advanced or lower idle speed and the car labors to run. The carb has recently been completely rebuilt, the idle mixture screws are at 1.5 turns out and have not adjusted them yet for leanness. It does not have a radical cam. My distributor position is turned more clockwise than ones I have seen on similar cars. When at 0 on the timing mark plate, I am pretty much at TDC (using the straw in plug hole #1 looking for change in movement method). Could my distributor be one tooth to far clockwise? From what I have read – the physical position of the dist doesn’t matter as much as is the rotor hitting the right plug at the right time. I’d like to get the dist back to a factory position with factory timing (4 degrees BTDC) or close. I feel I have several things going on here and need to know what makes sense and what order do I need to take to get things right. Maybe I need a timing 101 or perhaps the new electronic ignition will help me and should just put the distributor back in the current position and start from there? Any thoughts on my situation?

Engine Facts:
396 / L34, factory Holley List # 3419 (just rebuilt), factory 4 spd Munice, no PS, PB or AC, all new vacuum lines and PCV components.

Thank you,

 

[tunes]

You can move the housing over one tooth (or more) if that is what you need. As long as the rotor is at the right terminal you should be okay. You may have to turn the oil pump shaft a little to get the distributor seated.

 

[Georgia69]

You don't need to pull the distributor to resolve this...just move all the plug wires one position clockwise, then loosen the hold down clamp and turn the distributor back counterclockwise to compensate. It doesn't matter which terminal you use as #1, as long as the rotor points to it when #1 is ready to fire. None of this will affect what initial timing your engine needs though. While setting timing with a timing light (and vacuum advance disconnected) 4 degrees BTDC with no vacuum advance will indeed struggle to idle at 900rpm, but it should settle down and idle nicely when you re-connect the vacuum advance. Perhaps your vacuum advance is not working correctly?

 

[Schurkey]

My current idle timing is at 18 degrees BTDC at 900 RPM. Any less advanced or lower idle speed and the car labors to run. The carb has recently been completely rebuilt, the idle mixture screws are at 1.5 turns out and have not adjusted them yet for leanness. It does not have a radical cam.

Engine Facts:
396 / L34, factory Holley List # 3419 (just rebuilt), factory 4 spd Munice, no PS, PB or AC, all new vacuum lines and PCV components.

Thank you,

If you have a mild/stock cam and you need 18 degrees to idle at 900 RPM, something is VERY wrong.

Get out there and adjust the idle mixture screws!
Does the vacuum advance work; and is it connected to manifold or ported vacuum?
While you're under the hood, better verify that the plug wires are on correctly, no vacuum leaks, carb doesn't nozzle-drip, etc.

If this were me, I'd fix the timing issue BEFORE I installed the electronic conversion kit. That way you know it's not a problem with the new parts. Make it run right with the original ignition, then add the new stuff.

 

[Krister]

My error – 18* is with vac adv connected, disconnected it times at 6* BTDC. Vac adv works as I put manual vacuum on the line it moves the adv mechanism in the dist freely – it is connected to the side throttle body port (factory) and has all new lines and tube.

I repositioned the distributor to factory location, by removing it, turning the oil pump shaft slightly counter-clockwise, slipped distributor back down slightly counter-clockwise too. All wires are in correct firing order and position. The vac advance position was a guess and after several back fires and repositioning – I got it to run well at 6* BTDC (vac disconnected). My only problem is with the timing set as mentioned, at warm 900 rpm and idle screws 1 turn out – the stock Holley runs real rich. Choke is free and operates as it should during warm up.