[Mach77]

Hey guys,

I want to "restore" my '65 Evening Orchid SS convertible engine to a stock 327, either 300hp or 350hp. The car was born with a 283 but that engine is long gone and I figure if I'm going to drop in a new engine I should make it a bigger engine. 2 owners ago someone dropped in a mid '70's truck SB 350.

Anyway, I need some advice on how to proceed with this build. Right now I'm looking for a block, heads and an intake. I do know the 350hp intake is aluminum and takes a Holley and have all the stock casting numbers. I would like to use date correct parts where possible.

How do I choose from the many blocks/intakes/heads on eBay and elsewhere? Anything to look for or avoid?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks in advance!:beers:

Derek

 

[BACK FROM THE DEAD]

Really since your original #'s engine is gone then it's never going to be a #'s car again. Might as well build the 350 you already have (or a 350 using a block that could have been from either a 327 or a 350, as some used the same blocks).

Externally they are going to look the same so nobody will know the difference but you. I get that the 350-375 HP 327 was an optional engine for your car, but I can't see spending money on a different block and crank than you already have to wind up with less cubic inches when you are done.

 

[novaderrik]

if your 350 has the big pad where the engine codes are stamped, then it looks 99.999% like a mid 60's 327 block.. might as well build what you have..

 

[Mach77]

Thanks, those are good points and ones that I've thought about back and forth. I may have a line in a good '65 327 (250hp) block and crank locally for a decent price so only need to track down the intake and heads, of which there seem to be a lot for sale out there.

I guess my thinking is that if I'm going to spend the $$ to rebuild the engine I would like to do it with a factory correct engine option. This color car is relatively rare and I think I'll get any extra $$ spent here back if I ever sell it.

What I've never done before is shop for a block, intake and heads so am worried I'll buy some crappy parts.

 

[Verle]

Derek,

When you find some heads or an intake manifold ask questions here.
Post pictures, casting numbers, casting dates.

Original 65 300 or 350 HP heads will be 3782461 castings.
These heads are not particularly rare. They came on lots of Chevrolet cars, Chevelles and Corvettes. People try to get exorbitant prices for "Corvette heads". Don't pay it. Keep on looking.

Expect to take any heads to the machine shop to have them checked and rebuilt as needed. Don't waste your money on hard seats for the valves unless you are going to race it hard. Ask about repairs and cracks. Ask for a guarantee that they are good heads. Don't buy without it. Don't waste your money on 2.02 intakes, 1.94s will be fine with a little pocket porting. Use stock springs.

The intake manifold will be 3844461 casting. Here is one as an example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-CHEVY-AL...Parts_Accessories&hash=item48567f1ea4&vxp=mtr

Keep looking you can find them cheaper. Watch for corrosion in the water passages and the thermostat mount.

The original Holley was 585 CFM and the correct LIST number for Chevelle or Corvette is very expensive.

A modern 600 Holley will look right to most people and should work fine.

The 65 Chevelle L79 air cleaner is reproduced for about $300.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-CHEVELLE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51ad5a114f&vxp=mtr

This is what the engine should look like:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Chevro...Parts_Accessories&hash=item337ebd2d63&vxp=mtr

 

[Mach77]

Verle, that is awesome, thank you.:thumbsup:

The L79 build is exactly what I'm looking for, those casting numbers match up with what I've been searching for. Figure I'll build it to whatever HP I can get on pump gas at 6,000' here in Denver. Could always buy the 300 hp intake as an alternative and strap a Qjet on it as I know those much better.

Great info, thanks again!

 

[Indiansprings]

Depending how well its built thats not a bad deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Chevro...Parts_Accessories&hash=item337ebd2d63&vxp=mtr

 

[dell72]

I would build the 350 you already own.

 

[Verle]

Derek,

A 65 300 HP did not use a quadrajet, those came later. I'm not trying to talk you out of a quadrajet, they are good carburetors, just not correct look for a 65.

I have never tried an L79 air cleaner on a quadrajet, there may be interference.

 

[Mach77]

Derek,

A 65 300 HP did not use a quadrajet, those came later. I'm not trying to talk you out of a quadrajet, they are good carburetors, just not correct look for a 65.

I have never tried an L79 air cleaner on a quadrajet, there may be interference.

That is good to know, thought I had read that the cast iron manifold used a Carter AFB. I have worked quite a bit on Qjets and Edelbrocks but not much on Holleys, guess it's gonna be a good time to start!

Are there any parts that will be a bear to find such as fuel lines, flywheel, balancer, coil brackets, etc?

 

[Rich-L79]

A lot of the little parts like hose fittings, fuel lines, oil fill tubes, etc. can be bought as reproductions. Shop Corvette parts vendors for the best quality and selection. The air cleaner is unique to the Chevelle but can be had as a reproduction (though the reproduction isn't entirely correct). Hard parts to find are the correct carbs (though many other Holleys are similar and will work), coil brackets and hard engine parts. All forged 327 cranks will work.

If you are set on building an L79, the true L79 cam works the best though more power can be made with aftermarket cams (though then it really isn't an L79 anymore is it?). If you go with the L79 cam, you really need to keep the mechanical compression quite high, stock was 11:1. It is necessary since the cam bleeds off some compression and if you bump the compression down to 9 or under it will run like a dog.

The only difference in an L79 distributor is the mechanical advance weight springs (which stock ones are way too stiff anyway) and the vacuum advance can which can be very hard to find anymore and is essential to making everything work with this specific cam.

 

[rocks66ss]

What can did it come with Rich?


Rocky

 

[Mach77]

If you are set on building an L79, the true L79 cam works the best though more power can be made with aftermarket cams (though then it really isn't an L79 anymore is it?). If you go with the L79 cam, you really need to keep the mechanical compression quite high, stock was 11:1. It is necessary since the cam bleeds off some compression and if you bump the compression down to 9 or under it will run like a dog.
.

Is this a fair representation of the original L79 cam? Is there any reason to go another route? I want low-end torque and driveability over high-end power.

http://www.compperformancegroupstor..._Code=CC&Product_Code=12-671-4&Category_Code=

 

[Rich-L79]

Is this a fair representation of the original L79 cam? Is there any reason to go another route? I want low-end torque and driveability over high-end power.

http://www.compperformancegroupstor..._Code=CC&Product_Code=12-671-4&Category_Code=

Not really in my opinion. Comp took liberties with the grind to "modernize" it which is okay, may even be an improvement depending on how you look at it, but not entirely true to the original grind. The Crane Blueprint 3863151 is a direct copy of the original L79 cam. An L79 built to all original specs is a very driveable, even daily duty, type of engine and is very durable to boot. A side benefit is that it sounds great too!

That all said, I would not match an L79 to a PowerGlide. It can work with a TH350 or TH400, but is probably best matched to a manual. If you decide on the original L79 cam, keep the compression high and use the correct distributor vacuum can. The correct vacuum can to match the original L79 cam is VC1810 B28. Corvette restoration parts sellers may offer it now, it was real hard to find in the past. With a more normal small block vacuum can which requires more vacuum to pull in additional timing, vacuum the L79 just doesn't create, the true L79 will run poorly. Ask me how I know.

 

[Verle]

Rich,

That doesn't sound like stock mufflers.

 

[Mach77]

That all said, I would not match an L79 to a PowerGlide. It can work with a TH350 or TH400, but is probably best matched to a manual. If you decide on the original L79 cam, keep the compression high and use the correct distributor vacuum can. The correct vacuum can to match the original L79 cam is VC1810 B28. Corvette restoration parts sellers may offer it now, it was real hard to find in the past. With a more normal small block vacuum can which requires more vacuum to pull in additional timing, vacuum the L79 just doesn't create, the true L79 will run poorly. Ask me how I know.

If I'm totally honest since I'm piecing this engine together I will probably find the best cam that is close that will match what I'm trying to do. Problem is up here at 6,000' vacuum is hard to come by (11"-12" in idle out of gear is great, as low as 7"-9" in gear in an automatic is the norm) so more overlap = less vacuum signal. Still, it can be done and something near the L79 specs is going to work great IMO. Someone knoweldgeable about 327's suggested a Lunati Voodoo 268 cam (227/233 at .050"); something like this is close to the L79 and would probably work well.

I'm a big fan of the B28 can, have them on both my cars now for the low vacuum signal in gear. You can still find them at Autozone, they special order them.

Rich, for the time being I was hoping to use my PowerGlide. Will this work? I would like to drop a TH350 or TH400 in there down the road and the car will likely need a new rear end, but for the most part this car is a cruiser and my wife drives it so the PowerGlide suits that purpose OK. Plus my budget will be groaning!

Thanks for the help.:thumbsup:

 

[Mach77]

Let's go cruisin' in my 1965 Malibu SS - YouTube

BTW, great sounding engine and sweet '65!

 

[novadude]

With a powerglide, I'd build a 300hp 327 replica instead of a 350hp 327 (assuming we are keeping with "stock" engine options).

You'll be surprised at how well a OE 300hp 327 will run. If you are stuck with the 3.36 - 3.55 gears, and it will be a fun car for a mild cruiser.

 

[Mach77]

Hey guys,

Here are 3 intakes 3844461 on ebay right now in order from most expensive to least expensive. The pictures below are in order of $300, $375, and $450.

I don't see date codes, is that correct? Please let me know what you guys think of these intakes. Thanks.

$300:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-ORIGI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19de48eb43&vxp=mtr

$375 (Verle posted this one earlier):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310693911456?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

$450:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-C...Parts_Accessories&hash=item338337d70d&vxp=mtr

 

[ToocoolZ28]

Since it will never be original I would buy a GM crate engine in the flavor of your choice. Powerful, dependable and a warrantee.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...&mbid=517614&gclid=CNiblIfX-7cCFe3m7AodvTsAmw